Carburetor Central

My 72 Z sat for a few months and I now it won't keep running. I have traced it to a fuel issue. It will run until the float bowls empty. Have installed new fuel filter and fuel pump (stock mechanical). I can add fuel to float bowls and it will run till they are empty. My next test is to disconnect the inlet line to the fuel pump and pump from a can of fresh gas. I fully assume that will work and that the problem is a clogged fuel pick up. Can anyone provide tips, dos and don'ts for dropping the fuel tank? As straight forward as it looks? Anything unsual about the fuel tanks internal fuel pickup? Is it just a hole and exit tube or is there some sort of internal scre…

Got what i hope to be a quick question... A little history first. I have been slowly refreshing my 72 240, the car sat after being a daily driver for 15 years in the new mexico sun. I dropped the gas tank had it cleaned replaced all fuel lines from the rear forward new plugs wires, coil,filters and fluids. I wasn't getting sufficent fuel so I got a new fuel pump from msa. car still wouldnt start... Thought I needed to send in the carbs for a rebuild but i couldnt afford it so I got bummed. Anyway after more research I found the fuel lines under the SU's to be clogged. cleaned them out and POOF! the car ran. It sounded like $^!# so after closer exam…

I left my car at idle for 30 minutes the other day while testing the horn button, got the plugs fouled and car tended to stall. Pulled out all plugs and found all the spark plugs were carbón fouled and closed at less than .020. Replace all plugs with Brand new NGK BP6ES gapped at .031, took the car for a ride but noticed some hesitation again at low rpms. Could the carburetors pistons be dirty due to the long idling and hence i will need to open them and clean the domes with Carb Cleaner? I am using ATM red fluid as damper oil! I also found out the timing is at 19 BTDC!

Hey guys i was looking at making a cold air intake for my 240z and was wondering what sort off performance increase others have experience with such a system. cheers Richard

I have a 74 260Z with twin hitachi carbs. It will not start after it sits for a few days no matter the temperature. I pump the gas and it turns over but refuses to start unless I spray it with starting fluid. Once it starts it is good for a day or so. I just got it and it will sit for the winter but I want to get it ready for spring. I am not a mechanic but the fuel pumps are good, no leaks. I just cant get ignition when cold without ether. The guy I bought it from said it has always had this problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I bought the original 74 service manual by nissan but need a push in the right direction. don't know anyone familiar with these carb…

I just "refreshed" the carbs on my 71' engine with a VB kit and it runs better than it ever did since I got it, but it seams to be running rich. It flooded out once and did not want to restart and I get some grayish / black smoke out of the tailpipe. I was thinking of getting one of those Color Tune tools to help dial things in better. Has anyone used this before and what do you think of it? Also the head pipe from the rear three cylinders glows red hot above idle while the front head pipe looks normal. Is this a normal thing? I balanced the carbs with a syncrotester and thought that both pipes should look the same. Thanks again for any help or suggestions!

I've read posts until my eyes are burning searching for some sort of answer. 1972 240 3 screw SU's. Car hadn't been driven since 1992 (43K original miles). Cleaned the tank, new filter, flushed the lines, etc. When it is cold (not started) it will crank for an eternity and never fire. Nothing. Spray a little starting fluid into both carbs on the crank cycle it fires and does the lean pop thing. Do this several times and it will pick up slowly and then run along if you hold it above idle. Once it warms up, it runs very well, idles well, drives well and restarts well. But, once it goes cold again, no way to start it without starting fluid and coaxing it along. Once…

hello everyone, i searched around and haven't seen anything related to my issue, i was wondering if anyone has ever just removed the stock airbox and air filter and just placed two cone style filters filters in its place... basically as seen like this kit: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PFFC20/11-4010KI will it do the same thing? if were to just mount two cone style filters? or is there more to this kit than just the air filters thank you

We're talking about a 1973 Datsun 240Z. Some background on the car. An old man/ dealer had bought the car at a show 12 years ago. He drove it home some eight hour drive, then stored it for the last eleven years. His people had been working on it some when I happened upon it. He sold it to me after I talked to him for some time about it. I was told they had been having problems keeping it running. Then they figured out it was trash in the tank. They had finally swapped the tank for a so-called refurbished tank from Washington state. This is where I step in. They have an aftermarket electric pump (rated at 5-9 PSI) mounted in the engine bay. In the Haynes manual i…

It looks like most SU rebuild kits come with two gaskets, needle valve, hose, and 6-7 round washers/gaskets of various sizes. Exactly where are those 6 round washers used?

For those who have converted away from the mechanical linkage over to a throttle cable, I'm curious what anchor point you used on your SU carbs. Specifically did you mount a throttle wheel to the linkage or did you create some other form of connection? I'm just starting to do my homework as I'm not thrilled with the mechanical linkage. Any suggestions/pictures you have would be appreciated. Thanks!

I was considering installing SU's on my 76 280 ,but a friend said I may run into trouble. Does anyone know what would be involved in the conversion. Any help would be appreciated.