Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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@Captain Obvious should be a proud dad. I used my lathe to make a Z part. It is a longer and thicker push rod to connect my buddy's linkage along the firewall for his SK Racing/TWM carb set up. It is stainless steel and 8" long from 3/16" stock. For reference the end-socket threads are M4 0.7mm
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Similar design to some SU tools.
Last reply by Randalla, -
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I have this pump that seems work the way it’s suppose to. But this crack bothers me. is there any one who has tried to replace the lever? The manual implies it can be
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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While searching the site for Vapor Lock I could not find any mention of the effect of high altitude. I have experienced what I think was “vapor lock” on my 240 that is running SUs with a manual pump (New in last 30 days). In both cases it was at altitudes of 5000’ and 4500’. In both cases shortly after spirited driving at higher RPM (4K-5K) and then slowing down to RPM of 2-3K. The engine would seem to run out of gas. Checking the filter showed fuel available. Fuel line from pump to carb was dry. 2 hours later and coasting down it started and ran fine for the next 150 miles home. In 25 years of driving a 240 I have never experienced this (Vapor Lock) before. …
Last reply by Pop's Z, -
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@zKars Do you know if the check valves from the Nikki 510 pump are the same as the Nikki 240 pump? I noticed in the FSM that specified PSI for the L20 is different than the L16. Is it the Check Value that control that? Anyone?
Last reply by zKars, -
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This is another one of those "i purchased "rebuilt" carbs, instead of rebuilding them myself" threads. I've been sitting on some rebuilt carbs (purchased online), MSA 6-1 Header, and MSA exhaust for almost a year now... Finally had the opportunity to install them this past weekend. I ended up pulling the ARA AC unit out as well. Before I end up pulling the front carb completely, just wanted to hear more opinions. Installed all the parts mentioned above and cleaned up anything I could as I went. Also threw in some BSPT 1/2" and 1/4" plugs in the balance tube. New blocks/gaskets for the carbs as well. Car fires up cold with the choke. Then after its…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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This may not be the right forum for this question, and those of you outside of North America likely don't know what I am talking about, but there is a device on my intake manifold that the Haynes manual labels a " Throttle opener control system". I assume from the description of the function that this an emission control system. Does it perform any other important function? The reason that I ask, is this system connects to the linkage for the carbs via a sleeved lever that actuates the linkage near the front carb, and this sleeve is rusted in place. With the throttle opener connected, the throttle is jammed. I am re-building the engine (step 1 of re-building the car...)…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I received my carbs from Ztherapy and I ended up with the Euro style balance tube. Miscommunication but it looks good. Because of this I no longer have the coolant going through the balance tube. I did not prepare for this so I am trying to figure out how to "plug" the coolant lines that would have gone through the balance tube. Does anyone have pictures that show how to address this or can you suggest? Thanks in advance and see my pics below.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I've come across suggested Weber setups by cylinder cc and I'm curious if people have had success when starting with suggested textbook values? The only published Datsun specific values I've found are for 2.4L/2.6L and my L28 has a stroker kit making it 3.0L with the extra lift. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
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In an effort to make the 240z more reliable, I've decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump and then retire the mechanical pump. By using quality parts and a smart plan, this will prevent vapor lock, keep the float bowls properly filled, and should allow for the car to start easier. Parts List Fuel Pump (low pressure, 4.5PSI max, 30GPH): Airtex E8016S (~$38) Oil pressure switch: Airtex OS75 Safety Switch Oil Pressure (~$15) Mechanical fuel pump block-off plate (~$25) Brass "T" (1/8" FIP): Watts AC-704 (~$5) Brass male-male (1/8"MIP 1/8"MIP): Watts AC-714 (~$2) 30amp automotive relay: Dorman 84601 (~$5) inertia switch (optional) Wire, fuses, and misce…
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
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I have installed triple webers and am looking for ideas as to what to do with the crankcase breather? No room to plumb to air cleaners. Any suggestions? Thanks
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
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Hey everyone, I am replacing my air filter set-up on my Z, which has triple Weber DCOE 45s on it and need help selecting the right air horn (velocity stack). I'm moving away from the airbox that uses a single 3" inlet and moving toward individual filters for each carb. I understand the carbs will be sucking in warmer air even with the heat shield, but some time on the dyno a while back taught me the car preferred warmer air as long as there was plenty of it. So, I have the stock air horns (velocity stacks) that came with the DCEO 45's, which are 2.5 inches tall (outside the carb) or 65mm, and even though I got the tallest filter available, there's only .5 inches…
Last reply by jitenshakun,
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