Carburetor Central

I have a friend of a friend selling a pair of Weber DGVs, atleast I think that's what he's got. He said he has a pair of Weber carbs for an early Z car. My question is, what should I look for when examining these for quality and completness? Is there special throttle linkage hardware I'm going to need or do they use the throttle linkage from the stock manifold? What other special pieces are needed for the install, if any? Are there any spots or components I should look at with regards to wear, deterioration etc. Lastly, and probably a very subjective topic well covered here, does it make sense to even consider these over the earlier round-top SUs I already have on my 73?…

Since my ac compressor won't allow the use of a OEM air cleaner, I am looking at using the dual ITG air cleaner setup w/ air horns. Anybody using this setup? Got pics? Thanks.

The '71 240Z I just bought has an L28 (F54/P79) in it, complete with injection. I will be going back to SUs, but have a question, what manifold gasket? I've seen posts saying to just use a carb-type manifold gasket to cover the notch in the intake port. But I haven't seen any carb gaskets that have the later exhaust port shape for my P79 head. Am I not looking to the right suppliers? Is there a special gasket for this? Or am I just mistaken?

Is it me or are these non-matching? The seller says they are matching 3 screw SU's from a 70 Z. If memory serves, 3 screw carbs came later. The bolt pattern is different it seems and the float bowls are both on the same side. I don't see how the linkage can go between. I'm at work or I'd go check my 70 in the garage... Sombody please tell me I'm dyslexic. thank you in advance...

Ok, I put a rebuilt my carburetors, and now I'm having problems getting them just right. I can't get the mixture just right. I can set the air flow with my unisyn, and I can drop the idle down to under 1000, but the mixture I can not get right. I have set the mixture nuts to 2 1/2 turns, but the car will bog out when I lift up on the lift pins, like it is going to die. No matter how much I turn the nut out, the car backfires out of the carburetors, which I am assuming is a lean situation, since it is mixed with the bogging out when I push the lift pins. My carburetor dampers are good, I have SU fluid from MSA in them, and I might end up using Marvel Mystery Oil to se…

I have a 73 240z in which I am trying to swap out the flattops w/ a set of 72 SU's. The weather is a bit cold, so I am dragging my feet since I don't plan to drive the Z in the snow! I have zero experience w/ carbs, but these seem to be fairly simple. I did a basic tear down of the 72 carbs and found a few things.... The tubes in which the needles reside were stuck firmly and would not move freely like they should. I was able to remove them, but ended up pulling one of the nozzle ends off during this process. I guess this needs to be replaced as this is the seat, right? I also removed the float lids and it appears that one of the floats is bent severly and is eithe…

Just completed my conversion from my troublesome EFI to SU's and the car started!! It is the first time I have heard my Z run on 18 months (due to fire damage). Trouble now is that the car idles between 3500 and 4500 rpm!!!! When I go to switch it off it diesels. Also it is running very hot and warms up extremely quickly (it was a hot day 35 C). I do not think my vacuum advance is working. The fuel bowl vents are not connected to the aircleaner and the neither is the valve cover vent (I am trying to track down a stock airbox) Help please, I really want to drive my baby.

I bought a colortune and tried to tune my carbs today. It seems that no matter what I tried the mixture always stayed rich(yellow). I read in a previous post that the SM needles are too rich throughout the RPM range. I got it running the best I could by listening to the idle, but it still smells rich and kinda smokey. Is this common for people with SM's? If they're bad because of their profile is there anything I can do to try to correct this problem? I also noticed that after cruising down a hill when I accelerate to go up the other side it puffs smoke out the tail pipe. It seems to be greylike, could this be caused by the needles? It seems more like a valve ste…

I'm working on a dual Hitachi SU setup for my 210 (Z Therapy carbs - they are beautiful by the way but I haven't had a chance to run them yet). Anyway, I'm working on the fuel line setup now. I've got a Holley dual output fuel regulator and I'm wondering if when using this if there's any need for a fuel return line to the tank. It seems to me that using the fuel line will do 2 things. First it forces me to join the 2 dual outputs from the regulator to join them both to the return line. I dont' see the point in that - might as well have a single output regulator in that case. Also it means that the regulator has to maintain pressure not only in the short fuel lines g…

I have dual Weber DGV carbs on a 73 240Z with a stock engine other than a slightly modified cam. I beleive that someone has done some re-jetting of these carbs in the past because they do not appear to have the stock jets. Since the car does not run particulary well I am in the process of trying to re-jet these, and was wondering what jetting others are using with these carbs to help me establish a baseline as to where I may need to go. I realize that I won't be able to solve all of my problems by just slapping in whichever jets others are using, but I hope to save myself some time in the test and evaluation process by obtaining some baseline information. Thanks.

I have looked around quite a bit to try and find my problem. I still can't figure out what is wrong. I have an L28 with a header, N42 head and belltop SU carbs. I was told there is a cam in the engine(but you know how that goes ). I believe I am currently running N55 needles. Which is probably part of my troubles. I am thinking of going with SM's. I set up a dual air fuel ratio gauge (each reads from a carb with my dual collector header). The only way to prevent backfire when the engine is under load is to richen the mixture up quite a bit. Another trouble is that I can't get the rear carburetor to lean out at idle. The choke isn't stuck. The only problem i …

Has anyone mounted an electric pump under the hood of the car rather than back near the tank? Any issues? I know that it is better to "push" with an electric pump than to "suck" but mounting and wiring my new pump (for SUs) would be ever so much simpler if I mount it on the inner fender above the voltage regulator. Any ideas how this might (or might not) work?