Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I have a 1972 240 with a L28 from a 1983 280ZX. The guy who owned the car before me made the swap and it has given me nothing but trouble, it all ended with an engine bay fire. This car is not to be a daily driver so efficiency is not a concern. I am no mechanical genius and even less so an electrical genius. Am I right in believing that swapping to SU's would make everything much simpler? As I am teaching myself as I go an advantage of this would be being able to use stock wiring diagrams. Has anyone had any major issues that I need to look out for. What effect will this have on the compression ratio? A list of things I will have to change, if there is anything I should…
Last reply by Arne, -
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I am looking for input as to the pros and cons of removing my FI system (it is working ok) for SU carbies. I really dont like the FI system and am wondering what carbie I can put on here. I am guessing almost any SU from any Z? What would be the best carbie? Would and early (70's) z carbie work well and would it produce the same HP and would it improve/reduce my MPG? Thanks ..Bruce
Last reply by viparz, -
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Pilot Screw is #65 in attached diagram. With me still unpacking from a recent move I can't seem to located my PHH manual anywhere.... Can someone remind me what the base setting on a 44PHH is for the pilot screw is? 2 turns out from seated? 2 1/4 turns? And turning it CW makes it leaner & CCW makes it richer, or vice versa? Someone remind me please... Thanks, -e
Last reply by EricB, -
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I posted this on zcar.com but added it tothis forum to get more readers. I need to get new air filters for my weber DGVs. While looking around I have noticed that they come in two different sizes. A taller one and a shorter one. Does anybody know which one is the standard size? If I order from MSA, what size are they? http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=11-4018 Thanks a bunch
Last reply by senkyoshi, -
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There are so many ways to plumb a set of tripples or so it seems. As it is merely just one more carb added why does fuel supply become complicated. My present setup (untested) is as follows... tank - RX7 low pressure electric pump - regulator (dial type) - STOCK metal fuel lines used for SU's - two lines feeding T's between each carb - factory return in metal fuel line - tank My theory is that you need to supply enough fuel to keep the bowls full at WOT, low enough pressure to allow the floats to control fuel bowl level at idle and not blow the needles off the seats (causing flooding/rich idle) and a restricted return to keep the pressure to the carbs around 3.5 -4 psi. …
Last reply by ezzzzzzz, -
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i'm debating on which air cleaners to get for my SUs... right now i'm torn between the K&N round assemblies (similar to the ones in the second link) and the ramflo/longflow style air cleaners that MSA and victoria british sell... i plan on using MSAs air horns on my carbs to optimize flow efficency as wel. i was pretty much set on the ramflo ones but then i read on hybridz that if the intake backfires it will melt the air filter element (that wouldn't be too yummy). i plan on purchasing these very soon so any input would be great! ps.... since the ramflos will save me a little $$, they are a little more attractive... RAMFLO: http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant…
Last reply by 0100, -
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Hey all, I'm new here... I've been over at Zcar for about a year, and thought I'd start posting here too, for a second opinion. Anyhoo - I'm looking into procuring some SM needles for my '71, and I was wondering if they would be a worthwhile upgrade for my otherwise stock L24 (although I will probably upgrade my coil and plug wires at the same time)?
Last reply by landmizzle, -
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I am trying to sync and adjust mixture on a 240z with round top SU carbs on an l28. The problem is this. I am doing the piston lift technique to getting the mixture right and the engine drops in RPM when i lift the rear carb. Just like it should. But when i lift the front carburetor the engine dies. It doesn't seem to matter how rich i adjust it the engine just dies. Another intresting symptom is when i put the unisyn on the front carb the engine drops in RPM significantly. When i put it on the rear nothing simular happens. The airflow going in each is the same. I am thinking that the rear carb is messed up. I think the previous owner of the carbs took it apart…
Last reply by Nigel1943, -
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Just put some isolators on my triple set-up. What a difference in the heat transfer, or lack of it! After a very short (2 mi.) run, I couldn't put my hand on the manifold just behind the carb, but could hold the carb flange. They also have some vibration damping that seems to keep my idle a bit more even. These things are definitely worth it. Got them from www.racetep.com for about $15 ea.
Last reply by ezzzzzzz, -
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I seem to remember someone saying they got a float rebuild kit from NAPA a couple of years ago. Anyone know if they are still available? I called NAPA. They said they have a huge book on carb parts, but would need the carb model #. I don't have that info with me at work. Anyone know the model number of the SU's on a stock '71 240Z? I was hoping to at least get some float bowl gaskets locally so I would not have to wait on shipments from far away suppliers. TIA, Marty
Last reply by sblake01, -
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Hey guys, I'm curious is a triple SU setup for an L24 worth the bother?? There's a manifold and some roundtops to go with it up for sale and I'm curious as to whether it would actually be worth the time and money and if so, how much would you pay for such a thing?
Last reply by beandip, -
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Hey guys, this is my first post and although I have looked at the previous posts, I havent found the info im looking for. anyway, I have a 72 240z that I just recently purchased. It has been sitting for well over 15 years. I have had it for about 2 weeks now and I have just decided to try and get her started. After some fiddling, I managed to get it to turn over. It wouldnt start, I was getting spark so I begane investigating. I found that the fuel pump was faulty. So, I took it off the car, took the pump apart and cleaned everything out so it worked as it was supposed to. When it was all put together, It worked fine when I pumped it in my hands. However when I put it ont…
Last reply by ChrisA,
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