Carburetor Central
If you have questions about the SU Carburetors, this is where you can find the answers.
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I am having MAJOR problems getting the nozzles out of an SU carb. The carbs are the ones with the large flat mixture nut that has the metal stop mounted to a wide metal tab. There is absolutely no movement in the nozzles (no wonder the car never started!) and they don't budge at all. The other set of carbs I replaced the nozzles in were a dream to work on; loosened a screw, remove the fuel line and the nozzle slipped right out. Not these babies, they aren't going ANYWHERE, up OR down. Am I missing a step? Any idea on how to get the nozzles out? Thanks in advance.
Last reply by ezzzzzzz, -
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Anybody has one for sale or can help me locate one? Richard
Last reply by Bambikiller240, -
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I'm running a stock electric diaphrapm pump in the back of the car feeding regulators for the SU's up front. All of this on my '71 240Z 2.4 with mild work. It runs fine but I'm fed up with the drumming noise of the fuel pump! I do like the anti-theft properties of this arrangement however. I've read through post after post without finding a definative solution as to what pump I want to use. I'd like to use a rotary/gerotor type pump which will eventually feed tripple Dellortos. At $50 to $150 per pump, I don't want to experiment with my bank account. Can someone whom has actually used said product provide a make/model pump that is quiet and fits the bill? :stupid:
Last reply by ezzzzzzz, -
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bought a basic rebuild kit from a local supply house and was very surprised to find it came with two sets of jets. one marked as **J1 and the other as **J2. i ended up ruining a pair of each just trying to get the old jets out and the new ones in. good news is i'm rebuilding two cars at the same time. so one car is going to be pretty much just a stock 2.4 while the other will be slightly modified (ignition, shaved head and header). which jet size is which? and which jet should i put in the modified car? while we're on the subject, maybe someone can explain what the deal is with the two different needles in the float bowls? the ones in my kit are both the same but t…
Last reply by clutchdust, -
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HELP PLEASE. I purchased a set of round tops and the intake manifold to replace the flat tops on a 1973 240. Disassembly and removal is not an issue. However replacement is where I am getting stumped. All of the pluming that was on the old carbs, along with the smog stuff is getting me confused. Is there a source that has a step by step or at least some hints as to what I should so with all the connections that I no longer will have when I install the new manifold and carbs. Is this really more complicated then I first thought. I have the knowledge to tare the motor down and rebuild it but I have never dealt with carbs and carb systems. Zippy
Last reply by clutchdust, -
- 7 replies
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I've searche all over the prior postings and while I can many mentions of the carbs I don't think this particular issue has been addressed... If I missed a post and you have the link handy I'll take that rather than starting a whole new thread. My set of 44 PHH came with part #85 fitted to all three carbs - have never used them - just fitted them with rubber plugs and left it at that. With the carbs temporarily out of the car they got me thinking... From the description it's there to cool the fuel reservoir... But has anyone used this function? What did they cool the fuel with? The radiator COOLANT isn't THAT cold once at normal operating temp! ... Separate circuit o…
Last reply by EricB, -
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i have a 240z and this is my first carbed car. i and working on the engine and want to know if anyone can tell me how i can tune and adjust my carbs so when it is time to start up the Z the carbs are some what tuned. i have the duel su's.
Last reply by 240ZX, -
- 32 replies
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The problem first manifested after it sat for about 3 weeks. I took it to dinner one evening and it uncharacteristically stalled at a light. After dinner, it stalled again, but was very hard to start back up. I later probably fixed this problem when I was chasing the follow-up problems when I replaced the condenser. At this point It will start like I am switching on a light. It will also idle ( Fairly smoothly at that). It will not even consider a slight throttle-up. It chokes very quickly as if to stop, but as I return the Throttle to idle. I idles smoothly again. I cannot even idle-up at the set screw. It's crazy. Below is a list of the actions that I have alre…
Last reply by Jayru, -
- 7 replies
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I have put my carbs back on my intake manifold and cleaned them up some. They are about to go back on the car and I am missing these auxiliary venturi retaining screws. I guess they just hold the venturi in place? I will eventually buy new ones, but do I need them before I start the car? When I bought the car they were missing. The carbs are three 45DCOE13. Here are some pictures.
Last reply by Dans240z, -
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Hello Folks, I have no real problem with my carbs, only that they are running a bit too rich on idle. A friend stated, that the pertinax dashpot bumper is worn and now the gap is too small. The result is that there is too much underpressure at the needle. I have the original factory manual and I have the ztherapy video, but nobody mentioned about the original dimensions. For a better understanding I made a picture. Does somebody know more about this little piece of plastic Thanks in advance Rainer
Last reply by germanz, -
- 6 replies
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Hi guys, Now that i got a chance to drive the Z i have realized that the choke sticks slightly on the rear carb. When the choke lever is released, both levers on the carbs return like normal except for the back one that binds 3/4 the way down. I have to take a long screwdriver and push on the lever, then it snaps/unbinds and returns the final 1/4 to it's position. Is this a common problem? What could be causing this? Could it be the cable or the actual carb? Let me know where i should start. Thanks, Jay
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
- 9 replies
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i pulled the carbs off my '73 (allegedly '72 roundtops) and also the carbs off the g/f '71. now i have questions. during disassembly i noticed a couple differences. the ones from the '73 had a four bolt flange for the damper and also had a black plastic jet assembly. the '71 had a three bolt flange for the damper and had a stamped steel jet assembly with some type of locking screw mechanism. otherwise, they appear to be identical. so the questions are, what's the difference? is one better than the other? are the internals interchangable? one other question, how much meat can be removed from the manifold and heads for a little better flow?
Last reply by clutchdust,
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