Exhaust
Discussions about the Zcar exhaust system.
390 topics in this forum
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I wanted to see if anyone could provide me with some insight into the twin pipe system offered by Spirit Garage. I did some searching and cant find a good review of the Spirit Garage system (quality, sound, fitment). I am between that and the Fujitsubo system, which I have seen a few Youtube clips of. I guess I'm not totally sold on the sound of the Fujitsubo system, but could be swayed. I like that screamy loud, race prep'd sound, but also want to the true dual system. I had some trouble figuring out how to source the Spirit Garage system but after a few email exchanges with RHDJapan.com, they agreed to stock it. I was a little surprised by the price that RHD listed…
Last reply by Sean Dezart, -
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Folks, I just wanted to post this video for your enjoyment and reference. I like the sound dearly. I have some ANSA tips I want to put on for looks but for now I'm sticking with this. 2.9L F54/E88 Stage III Schneider cam kit with 10,000rpm springs, etc. Oversize SS valves round top SUs Clifford Research 6-2 jet hot coated header 2.5" exhaust pipe Borla Pro XS SS muffler Engine revs to about 4,500-5,000 rpms. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lldrWxCQNBg&feature=youtu.be
Last reply by JSM, -
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A little different L music - twin symphony style!!
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Trying to figure out what exhaust headers went with the year for North American Z's Here is a stab: 240z E30 E36 N33 (U98 non-Emissions) 260z E36 280z N42 N47 280zx U87 P71 W48 Corrections, additions are welcome.
Last reply by SeafireXV, -
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As a follow up to the thread discussing the discontinuation of the Monza period-style exhaust for the 240Z, I thought I would post some info and pictures of some of the various true period and later period-style exhausts that used to be offered for the 240Z. First, a couple of definitions. Back in the '70s, many of these exhausts were offered in sections. You'll see references to front, center and rear sections, as well as complete systems. In general, the rear was the part that replaced the rear muffler, and the center section was from the stock downpipe back to the rear muffler. The center section generally included a resonator, but not always. The front section was t…
Last reply by JeffB240z, -
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Hi Everyone, Well, I had my Z rebuilt a few years ago and it rocks. Headers, resonator, muffler, out The exhaust is getting too loud because my schedule has changed. I need to drive thru the neighborhood in the early morning more often now. Recently I came across the Xforce Varex remote adjustable muffler http://www.xforceusa.com/products and the Spec-D Tuning MF-RS310ES Muffler Tip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L9NFQ60/ref=dra_a_rv_mr_ho_xx_P3352_100?tag=dradisplay-20&ascsubtag=f4fd5f6c0be7b7f9b3df5680115a055d_S To be honest, it sounds too good to be true. Does anyone have an experience with either…
Last reply by Mike_LA, -
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Hi, New member here, had my 1972 240Z since '95. Had the engine rebuilt a few years ago with a honkin exhaust. Lots of fun to drive, nice low, loud, exhaust, but now I need to drive it early mornings and late at night and it's too loud for neighborhood driving. Can anyone recommend a good exhaust guy that can tune the sound? I am hoping for same note, lower volume. Thanks, M
Last reply by Mike_LA, -
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Looking at the recent thread showing tank vent hose replacement, this reminds me of what I found last year. The photo here shows the vent hose location above the muffler. That grommet had popped out where it enters the cabin. I reinstalled and then sealed it up real good. That was it. A real pleasure to drive with the windows down again. Just another thing to check.
Last reply by dmorales-bello, -
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Hey guys, I recently had an AC system installed in my 240z, it's a second generation 280z AC unit and I had an issue with it since I kept feeling hot air coming into the car at high speeds. So after a bit of checking I noticed two leaks from the firewall which i sealed off and one more larger hole on the passenger side, under the dash that brings in air from outside (picture attached). I ended up sealing that large hole as well with insulation foam and it solved my hot air coming in issue BUT, now I have another issue. I can now smell exhaust fumes in my car. My theory is when I sealed that large hole the air pressure in the car changed and it is now sucking or lett…
Last reply by mark248am, -
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Continuing the tear down on my project. I have been slowly removing components to evaluate and refurbish as the project slowly moves forward. The engine is still in the car-less storage space needed. I have been struggling with the manifolds. i have been spraying the hardware with Blaster everytime the hood has been popped for the past several weeks. The rear exhaust stud is missing and I snapped off the front one with barely any force. The center bolt did come out OK. The factory service manual simply states remove the EGR valve, etc. The valve has been successfully removed with the Blaster and a bit of heat but the connecting tubes are a different story. Any tip…
Last reply by Namerow, -
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I'd really like 3" exhaust after hearing another 280 with it. I'm thinking I'd start at the down pipe by transitioning up into 3" pipe using a reducer/adapter, then through a big resonator along the transmission tunnel (longest I can fit), then 3" piping to the rear. I like the idea of using lap/butt joint clamps to hold it together since I haven't acquired a welder yet. The exhaust route under these cars looks fairly simple, so I've nearly talked myself into doing it after I finish up the front end suspension bushings. If I buy several bends, straight pipe and quality stainless clamps, how hard could it be?
Last reply by gnosez, -
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About welding in a flex coupler. Photos. Nothing an exhaust technician doesn't know; information for the rest of us. Seems like a good idea to me, at least with the modifications suggested. Some good critical comments. http://www.eastwood.com/blog/diy-how-to/header-leak
Last reply by Stanley,
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