2nd & 3rd Generation - S130/Z30/Z31

Here is the tag from my Fairlady Z. I was looking at it and I can figure out most of it by the numbers but the last line is the one that intrigues me the most. I was told it was a 1979 model and by the Vin number I think that this is correct as it is fairly low BUT what is the 0 - 12 on the last line? Then I thought maybe that this was manufactured date. So made in 1980 (thus the 0) and the 12 month. December. Was a good guess? The USA cars have the month and year on them. I do not read Japanese so I do not know. Thought I would see if any of you may have a clue. Your thoughts and or guesses would be appreciated. In the mean time I will send this to some peo…

I just picked these up from the original owner who said when he bought his 74 260z new it was a dealer option in CA. He still had his 74 in the garage. Anyway, from the research I’ve done Appliance was started in the 50’s and sold or transitioned to Japan for manufacturing. Mine say Japan on them. Does anyone know what year Datsun started offering these wheels as a dealer option? Luckily I got all 4 center caps too.

I know this topic is out there. But seriously, I could not re-find it to save my life. I found the topic once, but could not find it again. I am looking for those darn 45 degree angle valve stems. So please help.

As I was glass bead blasting the axles from the car I am restoring, I noticed something I have never seen before, an arrow on the casting of the factory (I think) u-joint: I note in the direction it is pointing, it seems to me that the area of the casting between the journals is flatter than the other, similar areas. Is the arrow indicating that a grease fitting should be installed on that "corner"? Also, can you drill and install grease fittings on installed u-joints?

So awhile back I tried to jump start my 1982 280zx turbo. Foolishly I swapped the posts on the battery popping a fusible link which I replaced. I have also replace spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil. But I am still left with no spark. I feel like a huge doofus because if I had swapped the posts the car would be fine. Also I did get a new battery but it has lost charge because it has been sitting but I can jump start it without a problem using the correct posts this time to try and start the car but I am still left with no spark. I do know that a possible problem is the ECU. is there a way to test that and anything else going forward? …

I have an 83' 280zx couple. The aspirator fan in the dash is very noisy. Does anyone know how to disable this without losing AC functionality?

Auxiliary Air Regulator --- Testing and Adjustment by Wade Nelson My 280ZX doesn't start as consistently and quickly as a fuel injected vehicle should, which is immediately on the first crank. Sometimes it takes several cranks, sometimes it'll barely catch and I have to pump the throttle to get it up to a normal idle speed, all of which indicate something isn't right. But from then on it runs great, so I've never worried too much about it. Bigger fish to fry... I also noticed I don't seem to get much if any idle-up on cold starts, higher RPMs which should gradually decrease. Themotyme / Cold start injector APPEAR to be working, at least intermittently, so this pointed…

Here's a simple way to reduce your chance of warped rotors / pedal pulsation when you do a brake job. The root CAUSE of warped rotors (disk thickness variation) is runout in the hub itself. Basically, what that means is the hub, hence the rotor, is TILTED, ever so slightly. (If you want to argue the cause of warped rotors, google "warped dtv" and then get back with me) You can put a dial indicator on the rotor (1/4" from outside edge) , and index the rotor, basically, try it in the 4 different positions on the hub and see which produces the least runout. If you're not a professional mechanic, you probably don't have the slick setup for doing this. The easiest thin…

Question for you guys - is it possible to swap the B-Pillar door trim (is that the right part name?) from the black plastic 1983 ZX to the chrome trim from the 1979 ZX? The attached picture should clarify what I'm curious about. Any ideas? chase

Hi I have a 76 280z with a 82 280zx turbo drive train, manual transmission. My backup light switch is bad so I ordered one from rock auto. It didn't fit. In the fsm it states the transmission is part FS5W71B. It turns out my transmission is FS5R90A. It appears that transmission was 1 of 2 types that came in the 83 280ZX Turbo. My problem is I can't seem to find a listing for the FS5R90A back up switch. Does anyone know where I can find this switch? TIA. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile

So I'm having a problem with my battery dying and I can't figure it out. As far as I can tell, nothing is on when the car is off (I've gone around listening/looking in a quiet place at night) but the battery is still draining and after 8-10hrs, the car won't start anymore. I had the battery and the alternator tested, and both tested good. I charged the battery all the way and it lasted 4 days. I know the real answer to this is a date with a multimeter, some long test leads, and an extra-large helping of patience. But is there a faster way to troubleshoot this? It wouldn't be a problem except that it's my daily driver and I think my coworkers are tired of letting me jump m…

Is there a way to bench test a digital cluster from 1983 turbo?