2nd & 3rd Generation - S130/Z30/Z31

I have a nice 280Z radiator on Facebook Market Place. Somebody asked if it fits the 280ZX. I think they do, but I am not 100% certain. Can anybody confirm the fit??? Thanks!

I replaced with reg diodes when pump would not shut off after 5 seconds with key in ON position. found these two to be dead shorted (out of circuit). it all works but I am guessing they maybe special (maybe avalanche) I am pretty sure they are not Zener, the pcb has "D" printed on it. That and I dont think a reg diode would work in place of a Zener but not sure about that. anyway pump works and ECU works but I don't want to use it incase they are some kind of clamping high speed diode to protect the rest of the circuit. anyway if anyone has any ideas about these please let me know. its the two round ones one blk and one red for the cathode.

Hello All, Mart here,I bought a Datsun 280zx slick roof 2+2.. in or around september 2013.. It's a funny story, Always looking for a Datsun z or zx one day Bart (Yes, from bartscooterservice also here on the forum) told me there was a 280zx for sale in a town near his. These days i'm not working anymore because of a accident at work and a later flattening a motorbike against a tree.... But after Bart told me there was a 280zx i wondered if it was still that one i remembered from the '90's when i was at that Nissan sub-dealer for his burglar alarm inspections, i was a service engineer at that time.. It was a blue car put away in 1993-94, in a st…

I keep getting code 34, its installed on a 1986 280zx turbo using the 280zx turbo det sensor. I am guessing that is the issue. But would also like to confirm a few things. What is the unloaded voltage supposed to be, I am getting 3.8vdc from the wire harness pin 21 to ground. With a 700 ohm (that is what the 280zx knock sensor ohms out too) the voltage drops to about 100mv or about .1 volt. For fun I used a later model knock sensor (2 wire modern type that ohmed out at 500k) and the voltage drop was to about 2v For those of you that have a 1986 300zxt, I would like to know what the unloaded vs loaded voltage reading you are getting at the sensor…

Hey gang, I will be working on a friend's 1981 280zx over the weekend but after looking at a few FSMs for 208zxs (on nicoclub & xenonzcar) they don't seem to have the ET Engine Tuneup chapter that comes in my 1978 FSM. I know they're both L28 engines but are the tolerances, valve lash values, etc identical? Is there a different manual specifically that has the tuneup specs for the ZX cars or should I use the 1978 manual's ET chapter?

I plan to use a 1985 turbo ECU on my 280z. I am custom building a wire harness. Thing is the OE Z31 uses a switched ground for the pump. The S30 uses a switched positive. I want to make this a plug and play as possible, which mean using the under dash 4 pin plug that feeds the switched positive to the pump. Below you can see how the ECU has constant power to the pump with a selectable ground. One ground is thru a relay (full pump power) switched by pin 20, the other ground is thru the ECU (pin 108) which has a voltage drop across it. My plan is to just use the pin 108 to control the relay coil ground and configure the relay as a normal switched battery po…

This popped up this morning. I've noticed that there aren't many Datsuns ending up in the local wrecking yards anymore. This one looks like it might still have the drive train. The whole car might even be saveable! https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/JN1HZ04S3BX405996

1979 280ZX coupe I'm having a new windshield installed next week and I need to properly remove the trim before my glass man arrives. I can't find a thing in my FSM. Section BF-16 describes the glass part but says "remove the wipers, front pillar garnishes and windshield garnish". It goes on to say" refer to roof trimming for removal". Thus far and have not located anywhere in my FSM that deals with roof trimming. Any ideas where this can be found in FSM. Can anyone describe how I can remome the metal trim without damaging it?

I'm removing my differential to install a LSD*. While at it, I was looking to see if I need to address anything else in this 49-year old car. I've seen detailed videos on rebuilding half shafts and was wondering what could possibly require rebuilding on them since there is so little movement this component needs to experience. The universal joints appear to be fine so far. *BTW: I decided to go with a KAAZ unit because I like their technical support, ability to adjust (although not easily) and I found a great price including shipping if I order them from a Japan-based vendor. Jeff

PN A18-000 203 23710 F5910 works fine on my test stand, but has a hole next to the side mounted LED opening with what looks like a slotted round shaft. Its a pot, have not messed with it. I tried searching on the PN the 203 does not match with any thing. Talked to Jim Wolf tech support, they thought it could be a JDM thing, had not seen this either. since its a pot I don't think its for reading out data anymore. Its actually hooked up like a variable resistor (only two wires to the pot). The engine starts and runs fine, goes into closed loop (blinking of led after warm up an over 2k rpm). Below I started the video where I noticed the extra h…

Inspired by a couple of recent posts on the Bring-A-Trailer thread, here's a thread to show some of the 'It wasn't me' type beastliness inflicted on cars by previous owners or their paid minions. I think we've all seen them. To get the ball rolling, I present to the jury this absolutely arcane replacement fuel filler arrangement on a 1970 car. I had been asked to perform an inspection and appraisal of the car for its new (and somewhat green) owner before he commissioned a restoration by a specialist here in the UK. Being an early Japanese market variant with a low production volume, a second opinion was being sought and I was happy to oblige. Lots (lots!) wrong with …

Fuel pressure regulators for these cars are getting harder to find. The '77 and earlier EFI cars use a different design, with two regulated fuel inlets, that remains somewhat available. But I can't find the single-inlet version for the '78-83 cars anywhere. I'm looking because I'm considering an aftermarket fuel rail for my '77, which would eliminate the need for the dual-inlet type. The usual sources I'm familiar with are out of stock for the later FPR. Some owners have retrofitted aftermarket adjustable FPRs. But only a couple use vacuum reference like OEM. Also, most aftermarket FPRs only go down to 3.0 bar (OEM are 2.5 bar). And they leak down during shutoff, …