Electrical
129 topics in this forum
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I replaced with reg diodes when pump would not shut off after 5 seconds with key in ON position. found these two to be dead shorted (out of circuit). it all works but I am guessing they maybe special (maybe avalanche) I am pretty sure they are not Zener, the pcb has "D" printed on it. That and I dont think a reg diode would work in place of a Zener but not sure about that. anyway pump works and ECU works but I don't want to use it incase they are some kind of clamping high speed diode to protect the rest of the circuit. anyway if anyone has any ideas about these please let me know. its the two round ones one blk and one red for the cathode.
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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Is it possible to get the front side clearance lamp to flash with the turn signals? Since the Zed doesn't have wrap-around front lamps, like new cars have, there are places where on-coming cars can't see the flashing, when you are turning. IMO, you could make the clearance lamp a dedicated flasher, or add a circuit board that flashes it when the front indicators are flashing, but otherwise on steady.
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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1980 280 ZX, put the drivers window fully down, and that it. The switch will not lift the window back up. Didnt hear and clunks. Passenger side window fine. I assume its the switch or motor in drivers side Anything I need to be careful not to break when taking the door panel off?
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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I happened across this and found it interesting. https://www.retrosoundusa.com.au/index.php?l=product_detail&p=363 Classic Auto Sound specialize in "turning back time" on your classic car radio. This conversion features music streaming & hands-free Bluetooth, AM/FM radio, USB & AUX inputs and more. The ultimate in period-look with today's technology. Anyone bought one?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Hello! I have a 1978 280z. My tail lights, dash lights, and side markers not coming on, on both sides. Headlights work. 1. I've replaced the stop light fuse with tail light fuse and the stop lights still worked. So that makes me think it's definitely not a fuse. 2. The stop lights still work even after changing fuse so that makes me think it's also not a grounding issue. 3. I've checked the continuity and voltage between the GW and GL plugs under the combination switch and got a signal (see attached photo for location) but no voltage 4. I checked the continuity and voltage at the tail light sockets and tail fuse and got a single but no volt…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I’d like to run this msd box how do I hookup the mag pickup. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
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I'm putting in LED Stop and tail lights, and would like to fool the warning display ( on the dash) into indicating that the stop/tail lights are working correctly. The old incandescent bulbs draw much more current and the sensor detects this with a reed switch inside of a coil that is energized ( i think ) when the diagnostics run. I tried to override the sensor by shorting out the reed switch like https://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx...u-280zx-30644/ but that is not working. Has anyone else replaced the tail lights with LEDs and reworked the sensor to ignore the lower current draw, and illuminate the "OK" light on the dash ?
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I recently picked up a 2+2 Turbo I intend to make an engine donor for my 77. Before yanking the engine, I'd like to fire it up and see how it runs. Unfortunately, the PO pulled the distributer cap & rotor and lost the screws. Can anyone tell me what size screws I need to hold down the cap AND if I can use a screw to lock the rotor in place instead of a pin? If I can, what size screw will fit to lock the rotor? Thanks!
Last reply by Hrududu, -
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Hey folks, and tnx in advance. 1982 Datsun 5 speed Trubo. at cold start the car idles steady at aprox 1100 RPM. 10min later after it warms up i start to hear little miss here and there. the longer it runs, the more miss and rough idle starts to happen to a point that needle is all over the place. I place a vacuum gauge on the Fuel Reg hose and i see that at first its steady in the green but again once car is warm, gauge is all over the place form RED to Green. here is the interesting part, when i loosen the 2 screws on the distributor cap, and raise it up just a tiny bit, the idle becomes perfect (about 800 or so), the engine sounds prefect and the va…
Last reply by ira, -
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Hi I have a 76 280z with a 82 280zx turbo drive train, manual transmission. My backup light switch is bad so I ordered one from rock auto. It didn't fit. In the fsm it states the transmission is part FS5W71B. It turns out my transmission is FS5R90A. It appears that transmission was 1 of 2 types that came in the 83 280ZX Turbo. My problem is I can't seem to find a listing for the FS5R90A back up switch. Does anyone know where I can find this switch? TIA. Sent from my iPad using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by GeeDub, -
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Use this code for a 20% discount with Vintage Connections: VCWinter20. It's good through Jan 31. By the way, I had issues with checking out at their site. Apparently the cart functionality isn't what it should be. I sent an email to sales@sparckmoto.com with what I was trying to order and asked them to bill my Paypal. Within minutes (during normal business hours), they responded, and I paid for my order.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 6 replies
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hello I have a 1982 280zx turbo model. My battery isn't charging anymore and only reading 10volts when running. The alternator is newer so I checked the posts on the alternator and it reads 15.1volts. I checked the black fusible link under the ACC fuse cover and it only reads 8 volts. As far as I understand the alternator runs to here then the battery. This is my very first project car so please excuse my ignorance. Is there anything I'm missing or any tips to point me In the right direction? Thank you!
Last reply by Zed Head,
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