Electrical
129 topics in this forum
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- 1 reply
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new to the forum my question is that I have a 1983 280zx from owner who had cut radio wires but has no fuel gauge or temp the other digital gauges seem to work has any other menbers run into this problem before any info on what to look for would be a great help:ermm:
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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- 6 replies
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I have a 81 280zxt My flasher fuse keeps blowing as soon as I touch fuse to holder POP!!! Instantly blows my mechanic friend unplugged the turn signal switch it doesn't blow the fuse in there is fine any input/help please & thanks
Last reply by dillbill, -
- 17 replies
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So awhile back I tried to jump start my 1982 280zx turbo. Foolishly I swapped the posts on the battery popping a fusible link which I replaced. I have also replace spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil. But I am still left with no spark. I feel like a huge doofus because if I had swapped the posts the car would be fine. Also I did get a new battery but it has lost charge because it has been sitting but I can jump start it without a problem using the correct posts this time to try and start the car but I am still left with no spark. I do know that a possible problem is the ECU. is there a way to test that and anything else going forward? …
Last reply by DstrbdSuperman, -
- 4 replies
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Here is the situation. I met a young man who bought an 83 N/A that has a turbo motor swapped in. There are two blue wires coming off of the negative on the coil. One went to the power transistor, and the other was cut. The car runs in this configuration, but the tachometer does not work. When the cut wire is reconnected, the car dies. The owner said that the tachometer did not register when the wire was connected. I put a voltmeter on the negative of the coil and checked the voltage when connecting the cut wire. The voltage went to zero. I measured the resistance of the blue wire to ground (assuming it goes through the resistor, to the tachometer and to ground). It was a…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 6 replies
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I took my 83 to the shop to get the heater core repaired. They had to remove the dash to get at it. Now Betty has s stopped working. She doesn't even try - no noise coming from the spare tire area. Even when I had no radio I could here her back there clicking. New stereo and had her working good before dash removed and replaced. Stereo works great and center speaker works fine. Any ideas where to look - what to check? Thanks in advance! BigBird:)
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I'm always singing the praises of Voltage Drop Testing. In reality I'm sometimes too lazy to do it. Like today. Usually my laziness bites me in the butt (like going out and buying a brand new starter when corroded battery terminals or a bad ignition switch was the problem) Today it was just the opposite. My starter has had an intermittent "click, no crank" for the past month. Usually I'll pop the hood, short from the starter + terminal over to the solenoid post with a screwdriver and she cranks right up. (It really helps if you remember to leave it in neutral when you do this.) Please don't ask me how I know this... Since a direct short to 12V made her immediate…
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
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Recently my 280ZX would click, but not crank. I took a screwdriver and shorted between the main starter post (connected directly to the battery B+) and the solenoid terminal , and it cranked over just fine. The diagnosis: A failing ignition switch, or something between the switch and the solenoid. But how did I know that? It all comes down to Voltage Drop. It's a concept that seems incredibly mysterious until you finally "get it," and then it seems so simple you're gonna *facepalm* or *forehead slap* yourself. Let me try, once again, in DIFFERENT terms and examples than the last time to explain this SO IMPORTANT concept. If you don't understand Voltage Drop, a voltm…
Last reply by 71Nissan240Z, -
- 3 replies
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I've been trying to diagnose this problem for a while now and I'm stuck now, so I decided to post on here. vehicle: 1982 280zx non-turbo, automatic tranny here is the problem: My car will turn on (initially). I mean all the way to the on position and the dash will light up. I can hear the fuel pump, etc. Once I turn the key to the start position I hear one click and the the dash turns off and the volt meter on my dash goes all the way down. When I put the car into the on position (after attempting to start it the first time) the dash doesn't turn on and the voltmeter (on the dash) goes all the way down again. I tested the battery 12.6V when I checked …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 10 replies
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Installing aftermarket CD player, cannot find power for the electric antenna. I have the prints handy, but where do I hook power (antenna lead) from the CD player to the Car harness? I have an 83 GL with electric tuner. THanks
Last reply by Classic83owner, -
- 3 replies
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Can any one tell me if fuel injectors, coolant temp sensor, etc. use the same connector. They all look the same but I haven't tried one on the other or checked part numbers on the replacements. I found I can buy new ones from O'Reilly Auto Parts for $6.99 and its' so much easier to solder in new ones than it is to pick and clean the old ones.
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
- 5 replies
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Hi everyone, I'm new to this site and I'd like to ask if anyone has a flow chart for diagnosing a cold start problem. The FSM and Chilton's both tell you how to test the cold start injector and all that but nowhere can I find a diagnostic flow chart. I've even looked through ALLDATA at work and all it gives you is specific tests. I really hate the idea of hit-and-miss diagnostics. The car will start right up but will only idle until it warms up. You can play with the accelerator and get it to rev but it cuts out and misses really bad. What also seems strange is even though I know the cold start injector is not working, I can smell rich exhaust. Runs great when fully warme…
Last reply by Classic83owner, -
- 11 replies
- 7.1k views
When I drive my car with the headlights on, the alternator light glows very dimly. I have not had any problems starting and this has been going on for months. I have checked the voltage at the battery with car running and I get about 13.4 or so. Belt is tight, connections cleaned. Is my alternator going bad and if it is, do I have a 60 amp or a 70 amp alternator?
Last reply by 81 ZXT,
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