Electrical
129 topics in this forum
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- 3 replies
- 2.6k views
I have the opportunity to purchase one of these units. My main concern was a friend of mine who use to have a ZX and he told me some of the cars are not compatible with the tester. The '83 in particular. Since that is the car I'm (mainly) buying it for, does anyone know of any issues with these testers? I would hate to burn something up especially the ECM or the unit itself. I'd appreciate anyone having knowledge of this potential "disaster". Thanks.
Last reply by sblake01, -
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- 0 replies
- 1.5k views
I had the digital dash replaced on my '83 280zx two years ago when it went dark. It blinked on and off for awhile before then, similar to a loose connection or shorting out. The replacement dash went out recently along with the oil pressure guage due to a blown fuse (10amp) and repeatedly does the same after a few seconds when starting the car. Again it appears like a short but where should I start looking to avoid an expensive dash replacement : fuse block, digital unit, harness ? Any help would be appreciated . Thanks.
Last reply by Forgeman, -
- 5 replies
- 2.4k views
Hi Z experts I have been chasing an electric gremlin in my 1982 280zx turbo for the past four years. Shortly after purchase, the car would intermittently turn over, but not fire. If I pull the wire from the coil to distributer it will either spark or not spark. If it sparks, I plug it back into the distributer, starts after one crank and drives perfectly. If no spark, it does not fire-up. Any given day you never know if it will start. As a result, I have not been able to use the car due to risk of getting stranded. I have had it worked on three times. Once by a z expert in Venice and twice in Glendale. Each time they say it seems fixed and shortly after the same …
Last reply by tlorber, -
- 22 replies
- 6.9k views
I picked up a $6 voltage regulator to see if I could fix my old 1978 alternator. In removing the VR, the "sub-diodes" came apart (I read the FSM after the fact, it suggests holding the lead with pliers as a heat sink to protect them :mad:). But I think that they might have been bad anyway since the other diodes checked out okay. Who knows. The alternator charged fine, by voltmeter readings, but the charge light went on and increased in intensity with RPM, which seems like a diode problem. Would anyone know where anything about these tiny diodes and where a suitable replacement might be found? I don't really have anything to lose so any WAG is appreciated. I've atta…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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I'm trying to bring back a 79 280zx back to life. The blinkers and hazard do not work. The blinker light on the dash does not light up at all. No external lights are flashing. Problems bad or no flasher???? No fuse or blown fuse???? Location of the flasher???? Thanks for all of your help. Mike
Last reply by tahuyaredrider, -
- 3 replies
- 1.7k views
I have 2 wires running to a plug that are wrapped around the cable that leads to the EFI control box. I saw it today and have no idea what it's for or if it's even needed on my Z. FYI, mine is not a turbo (which this may be a connection for those who do have turbo), 5 speed, that I'm trying to restore. I would appreciate anyone that might be of assistance on this matter.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 3 replies
- 2.1k views
http://www.lucubration.com/pdf-tile-printer This website will allow you to print a FULL SIZED version of Xenon's 280ZX schematics. (.pdf) http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html It annoints them with an ugly watermark, but ....it's free. I printed the schematic out, full sized, tiled across 22 sheets of 8 1/2 x 11 paper, and I intend to mount them on a sheet of plywood, and put clear plastic over so I can use dry erase markers to trace various circuits. If each "X" is a regular size sheet of paper, it looks like this: XXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXX My old tired eyes simply cannot handle tiny schematics anymore. There are other ways to tile-print large PDF's, but none I've fou…
Last reply by Mike W, -
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- 1.7k views
I recently took apart one of the fuel injector connectors that had failed on my Z car, and thought I'd share a little bit about "picking" connectors. "Picking" connectors is rather like lock-picking. You need patience, and strong, sharp little tools. by "picking" i mean reaching in and releasing the spring latch that holds the terminal into the connector shell, so you can withdraw the wire and terminal for repair or replacement. MOST automotive connectors can be "picked". But don't expect it to be easy, especially when the connector shell is full of corrosion and grime. Some connectors you "pick" from the front, others from the rear. The best situation is when you…
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
- 8 replies
- 4.1k views
Hi, My driver's side headlight is dim from time to time, causing the warning light to illuminate "headlight". I've taken it to a couple of mechanics who say it is a faulty switch. I've swapped out the switch only to find them faulty as well. Does anyone know if cleaning the contacts can fix this issue? Have any of you experienced this problem? New switches are over $400 dollars so I'm hoping to find a way to fix this.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 1 reply
- 2.2k views
Does anyone know of a reputable place to buy a replacement power antenna for a 1980 280ZX? My mechanic told me not to buy a universal replacement. Some of the sites like ANTENNAX only has a PO BOX address, so I hesitate to deal with them. PARTSGEEK.COM also has some bad reviews.
Last reply by zbane, -
- 0 replies
- 2k views
Today I put together and bench tested my new audio setup. Includes a fancy new JVC headunit, with Ipod controller, bluetooth, HDFM, everything, including a remote control I might try and mount to the steering wheel... I'd always gone with Sony & Pioneer (staring with my very first SupertunerIII) but the JVC's controls were more intuitive... I prefer NOT wrecking cars while figuring out how to balance the speakers... http://www.bestbuy.com/site/JVC+-+50W+x+4+MOSFET+Apple%26%23174%3B+iPod%26%23174%3B-Ready+In-Dash+CD+Deck+with+HD+Radio/4707067.p?id=1218512779392&skuId=4707067 Picked up a massive amplifier at a pawn shop for $80. 300Watts or so... I got lucky,…
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
- 3 replies
- 2.3k views
Put vehicle in neutral, set emergency brake. Remove skid plate from bottom of vehicle (4 x 10mm) Using 27mm socket and breaker bar rotate engine (big nut on front flywheel / harmonic balancer) until timing nick is visible. Mark with chalk line on pulley flange -- both sides. (Some of you young guys may still be able to see just the nick without the help of a chalkline, and can skip earlier steps) Remove distributor cap. Note where rotor is pointing. Remove electrical connector and vacuum line to distributor Loosen 10mm bolt securing distributor baseplate with shortie box wrench, take out using long Phillips screwdriver. Remove distributor. Note / remove any gunk /…
Last reply by Wade Nelson,
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