Engine & Drivetrain
226 topics in this forum
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Recently I have noticed a puddle underneath my z in the garage I haven't really examined it yet but it is a red substance is that anti freeze ? And now that I think about it its right below the radiator its been very cold here in Wisconsin today it was -18" could the cold weather have caused my radiator to crack could it be a line ? the car hasn't been started since before thanksgiving its just been sitting while I've been trying to fix other issues its an 81 280zxt there is a lot of after market stuff under the hood from previous owner such as cold air intake electric fan so I'm not sure if the radiator was replaced or not I'm sure it was at some point but I guess I just…
Last reply by Jarvo2, -
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- 4 replies
- 2k views
Hello, I am trying to remove the rear extension on a late model (FS5W71B) transmission. I was given this M/T so I don't know much about it. I am working with the FSM, there was no stopper guide pin/e ring to remove, ordering parts. Removed the return spring plug, return spring, plunger and bolts, and am able to separate the rear extension about 1.5", but no farther. What do I do next? Thank you
Last reply by Zed Head, -
Engine cuts at 3000 rpm and back on at about 2000 rpm When you accelerate in any gear when 3000 rpm reached engine cuts out. I had this problem a few years back but can't remember what I did to rectify it. Has anybody had this problem Bob zed
Last reply by ZXR616, -
- 1 reply
- 1.7k views
Well, it never ceases to amaze me, but here's another prime example of how one thing can lead to another. RE: 83 N/A. About 2 or 3 weeks ago, I noticed that my car was "running rich", so while I was doing the AFM overhaul, I went ahead and drilled the cover plug out of it for future adjustment. I finally decided to try to adjust it (without a CO2 meter) and turned it counter clockwise just as the FSM showed. It immediately required adjusting the idle screw to reach the 750 rpms that is advised for normal operation. Took it out... ran like a TOP! "Happy, happy, happy!" SYMPTOMS: About a week later, old man winter decides to visit and I jumped in it just to drive and …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 reply
- 3.8k views
Not long ago, I had an R200 diff laying around gathering spiders and wanted a LSD in my 280ZXR, so I went shopping on EBay. Found the Phantom Grip and figured "what-the-hell" and ordered it. After making many measurements and calculations and calling Phantom for reassurance, I disassembled the R200. The hardest and scariest part of the mod was the grinding of the gears to make room for the grip unit. Got every thing back together and it has been performing with no faults. Drove the car from Macon GA to Arnold NE and back (2600 miles) and participated in the Sand Hills Open Road Challenge with no problems. Standard open R200 Diff Phantom Grip Installed R200 …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 16 replies
- 3.5k views
I'm going to replace the motor in my 77 Z with one from from an 83 ZX and I'm trying to figure out what parts I should use from the 77 and which parts I should use from the 83. Two of the specific areas of decision making are the intake and exhaust manifolds... The 83 intake manifold is webbed while my 77 is not. Anyone know why Datsun started webbing the intake manifolds? Is that for heat? Strength? Something else? Given a choice, which is better? The 83 exhaust manifold has an O2 sensor while my 77 does not. Are there performance gains to be had by switching over to the ZX fuel injection controller that uses the O2 sensor or does it not really matter? Basically I'm try…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 reply
- 1.4k views
I have searched high and low to find replacement boots for the axles on my ZX. I can find the outer boot on "Dragon", but can't locate the inner ones. Those are actually the ones I need to replace... that or I'd be interested in replacing the entire units, boots and all. So guys if anyone can hook me up with links or otherwise, I'd appreciate it.
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 reply
- 1.9k views
Hey guys. Just had this system installed on my car. My buddy (who does exhaust for a living) advised me to use this system instead of the cheaper one, so this is the one I bought: Motorsport! Aluminized Performance Exhaust System, 82-83 280ZX Non Turbo - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts The install was easy enough, so I was happy with the unit. Cranked it up and loved the "throaty" sound. Only problem I had was as I accelerated (while driving) the exhaust noise was so loud, I could hardly hear the radio or passenger or phone or whatever! I finally could "outrun" the sound around 60 or so... Long story short, I had to exte…
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
- 5 replies
- 3.2k views
On my '92 4Runner the fan will run for a minute or two when cold and then stop spinning. It's a very audible difference; the engine quiets down considerably once the clutch disengages. Once it gets hot, it again starts spinning. On my 280ZX the fan started with engine start (at 90 degrees ambient) and never quit spinning today after I replaced some heater hoses and let it heat up, radiator cap off, to "burp." How about yours. Does it quit spinning on a cold startup? Like me, you probably never pay any mind to it until you develop an overheating problem. I'm thinking I"m due for a new fan clutch.
Last reply by sjb15316, -
- 1 reply
- 2.6k views
I've got a clutch hydraulic system I can't get to bleed. New slave, new flex line, new master cylinder because the old system was leaking fluid (somewhere!) and often required I pump it up to have a working pedal. I've installed dozens of clutch hydraulic cylinders, masters and slaves, in everything from Triumph TR-3's to my current 280ZX. Never run into one I couldn't get bled. Till today. Here's my theory. I've always thought "bench bleeding" a fresh master cylinder was a waste of time, because most of the fluid drips out while you're trying to connect the lines, makes a mess, and eats paint off of whatever it drips onto. Why bother? I suspect my new master…
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
- 7 replies
- 3.8k views
Alas one of my 30 year old heater hoses in FRONT of the firewall gave out this morning. It looked like a two-toothed critter may have taken a bite out of it. The rubber hose passing through the firewall was very soft and overdue for replacement. Fortunately I was able to cut off the (bit? bitter?) end and still have enough left to clamp onto the nipple and limp home. The heater hoses themselves appear to pass THROUGH the firewall instead of, as on many cars, having a metal tube pass-through integral to the firewall. Correct? I assume this means I have to pull the entire dash apart to get to the other ends, ends I ASSUME are clamped onto the heater core. Has anyone …
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 5k views
I cut my teeth curing overheating on a 1967 Jaguar XKE. I thought I could diagnose pretty much ANY overheating problem within an hour or so but a recent one took me awhile. The afflicted vehicle was a Toyota 20R equipped mini-motorhome, but... The lessons should help any Z owners battling overheating. Problems started when the water pump began making a racket. It wasn't leaking and the vehicle wasn't overheating at this point. The pulley was visibly moving in and out 1/4" or more meaning the water pump bearing had failed. Frankly it sounded like loose metal in the bottom end of the engine rattling around! I replaced the waterpump in a mini-market parking lot, filled…
Last reply by Wade Nelson,
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