Engine & Drivetrain
226 topics in this forum
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- 0 replies
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Bruce Plecan's Tuning Tips Yes, the 280Z/ZX has an ANALOG, not a digital fuel injection system. This is a great article on tuning / re-mapping DIGITAL fuel injection systems. The article is based/ oriented towards GM (General Motors) EFI. If you hope to understand ALL fuel injection, theory, etc. it makes a great backgrounder. Don't expect to understand all of it on your first pass. What did I learn re-reading this? That if you lean an engine out too much under "cruise" conditions it may "chug" if the vehicle encounters a slight hill or stumble upon re-application of the accelerator. In a modern car with digital cruise control, it would be simple enough to detect whe…
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
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- 6 replies
- 9k views
My 1980 ZX was becoming increasingly hard to start. New injectors didn't fix the problem, which I had assumed was the fuel rail losing pressure after shutdown, which is often due to "drippy injectors." I finally got off my lazy butt and put a fuel pressure gauge on her. Good pressure, (36-39). After shutdown, fuel pressure would intermittently go to zero. Other times it would hold @ 32psi or so. Clearly a drainback problem. (As a side note, if I disconnected the pump, the engine would continue to run all the way down to 12-15psi before beginning to rumble and stumble. The fuel pressure regulator was indeed working. Disconnect it, block the vacuum line, an…
Last reply by Wade Nelson, -
- 0 replies
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I just got my 79 zx running. Full tuneup runs and idles fine, but when i step on the pedal and try to go above 3k the engine pops and snorts through the intake. Any ideas? please help. Thanks Mike
Last reply by tahuyaredrider, -
- 12 replies
- 4.9k views
Two years ago I had a fairly decent running car, but it occasionally had hot restart problems. Assuming it was due to injector leakdown and loss of fuel pressure when parked, I replaced the injectors. That's when the problems began. I purchased a set of new injectors from eBay. I immediately experienced driveability problems including a loping idle, horrible gas mileage, etc. A mechanic friend pulled plug #1 and it was fouled suggesting injector #1 was stuck open. Listening with a stethoscope it wasn't ticking like the others. The vendor sent me a replacement injector and I thought I was good. Just to be sure, I installed a new fuel filter. If crud had clogged …
Last reply by sjb15316, -
- 10 replies
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I just got my 83 back from the shop and put together and cranked it for the first time in 4.5 years back in Oct '12. Didn't run great, but I was so excited to have it back that I really didn't care as long as it would run "fair".... Well, now that the "new" has worn off, I went out to crank it a couple of weeks ago and got NOTHING. Drained the battery trying to get it cranked. Put the charger on it and left in my truck. After a couple of day, I tried again...nada! After thinking about it... I decided to pull the coil off the '80 and give it a try... cranked right up! Just for giggles, I tried the original coil and it started too! Hmm??? Anyway, since that day, i…
Last reply by sjb15316, -
- 28 replies
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Hi guys. I got a thread on another site but not getting help. I'll post like to it because there's a lot. Thanks for looking and any help My '79 woes (getting better - ZDriver.com
Last reply by krzywhtboi82, -
- 4 replies
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I have a 83 ZX 2+2 NA 5 speed that I put a 79 engine in. Swaped intake and a few other bolt-ons including the distributor mount because the adjusting screw was clocked different. When I dropped in the distributor I noticed that it only has about 1/8" of engagement with the drive gear/shaft, that is, it only drops down 1/8" when it lines up. Does anyone know if the drives are different. It seems to cause a bit too much free play in the distributor. The car runs pretty good but I'm still concerned that it may cause future problems. I bought the car without the engine and a pile of parts in the back. It has power steering but the 79 did not so I had to swap the drive pulley …
Last reply by Classic83owner, -
- 6 replies
- 2.3k views
Who here has replaced a fuel pressure regulator, and what were the beneficial results, if any? How did you diagnose it as having failed? What symptoms led you to decide to replace it, if it wasn't by Tee-ing in a gauge?
Last reply by Classic83owner, -
- 4 replies
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I recently purchased an '81 L28et that seemed to be running pretty well. I plan to transplant it into my '78 280z. I started the teardown on the engine today to check a few things, and this is what I found in the oil pan. Looks like alot of metal shaving and a couple of circlips. I'm not sure what the broken brass part is. Any ideas? I popped a few of the rod and crank bearing caps and the bearing didn't look too bad. Any suggestions welcomed. Brent
Last reply by cajunz, -
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i have a 1981 280zx non turbo. when my car warms up about 30 minutes or so it tends to idle real low and then just die. Some times it will start back up and other times it wont. I have replaced the ignition module, the dizzy, the spark plugs, the ignition coil, fuel pump, fuzes, and much more. Everytime i put something into the car it will act better for a couple days and then start acting up again. Many people say it is vapor lock. Any ideas? has anyone else had this problem? I just want my car to be normal again .:mad: thanks.
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 2 replies
- 2.3k views
So i was driving home one night after work and my car shut off about a mile 1/2 down the road. I have a fuel pressure gauge before the fuel rail and it was reading 0 so i changed the fuel pump. That didn't fix the problem so i replaced my alternator, fuel filter, spark plugs, and injectors. I also recently replaced the ecu wiring harness. Now the problem i believe is my fuel pump modulator. I Wired the fuel pump up to my battery directly and it seems to pump too much fuel and floods the engine. i may not fully understand the whole fuel system so im asking for anyone's input who knows more. thank you
Last reply by EuroDat, -
- 4 replies
- 1.7k views
Hey all, it's MY time to need some help! Before I bailed out of Colorado to take care of sick family members, I used a NOID light to diagnose my Z's hard starting in very cold weather. It simply came down to this. In sub-freezing weather I am sometimes NOT getting main injector pulses Let it warm up a few degrees outside, and everything operates fine. This was AFTER installing new injectors, a check valve, new cold start injector, diagnosing the thermotyme circuit, cleaning the AAR, and every OTHER possible source of hard starting problems. She starts instantly now -- except after a cold soak. One time I finally caught her "in the act." Cranking, but no injection puls…
Last reply by Mikes Z car,
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