Engine & Drivetrain
226 topics in this forum
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- 1 follower
- 8 replies
- 2.9k views
I've seen a few threads regarding aftermarket cams running OE fuel injection. I'd like to briefly revisit the topic. What would the drawbacks be to running a .480 .480 274/274 cam with my stock fuel injection? My engine is an F54 stock internals with .080 shaved P79 with stock cam and valve train. I would replace all necessary valve train components to meet new cam requirements. Thanks for input . I know it's a kind of old topic, but I value current experience here the most.
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
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- 2 followers
- 8 replies
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Hello! I am new here but I have recently started to restore a 1980 280zx and I have had some trouble. First, it took a lot to start but I finally was able to get it running smoothly but shutting it off after 5 minutes just to be safe. Whenever I had gotten in the car I noticed the clutch pedal is completely depressed, no resistance, nothing I pumped it a couple times after pouring brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder but still to no avail there was no pressure. Lastly, (I know this was stupid) I noticed on the engine block, I have no idea what hose or anything but there seems to be a huge opening in that hose, I’ll attach pictures and a video of the clutch pedal if I…
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
1979 280zx 1 2
by kman79/280zx- 1 follower
- 12 replies
- 2.1k views
Me and my son acquired a 1979 280zx from a friend that owns a junk yard. At no cost to me. It sat for 25 years. We will be doing most of the restoration except the body work. The motor and transmission had already been removed. I want to put a 350 under the hood. My question is (I will have plenty more in the future) can the stock rear end handle the 350 motor? I'm not looking for crazy horse power. I'll upload pics as soon as i get them on the computer. Thanks for any help.
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 3.4k views
I am rebuilding a P90A head from an L28 turbo and was confused when I came across the hydraulic lifters. I have not seen these before on a cylinder head so I am wondering what people think about them. I've seen videos of people who do conversions to solid lifters using time-serts but am not yet sure if I want to invest in this. Is it worth it? The hydraulic lifters I currently have seem pretty solid with no play in the pivot. It would be great to hear any thoughts or experiences regarding these hydraulic lifters. Thanks.
Last reply by Zlost, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
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I couldn’t find this via a search so I thought I would share my findings the thread size for the fitting that leaves the turbo oil t-block (originally hardline to the turbo) is: m12x1.0 I used a m12x1.0 to -4an adapter and works perfect for my turbo oil feed line. cheers!
Last reply by zer0kool, -
- 1 follower
- 9 replies
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I'm getting some big clunks from the rear end and would like to ask you guys before I tear it down. R200 3.90:1, OBX limited slip with all the corrections done to it with about 6,000 mi on it, axles are from a 1983 ZX turbo. As you can see in the video the P/S axle is the worst and also quite a lot of movement on the driveshaft. The OBX was installed by a professional differential shop, the wipe pattern was perfect and bearings and seals were replaced at the same time.
Last reply by grannyknot, -
MSD ign box 1 2 3
by toastedboy54- 2 followers
- 27 replies
- 2.3k views
Are these wires going to my distributor my mag pick up wires Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by gnosez, -
- 3 followers
- 35 replies
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F54/P79 with .080 removed from head w/approx 150 miles driven since put back in the road. Bottom end is probably stock, but untouched by myself(no new rings, bearings etc.) I'm trying to determine if my car is running rich, or if I am experiencing ring or valve stem seal failure. There exists an amount of oil consumption that to me, seems high, even for an engine with a fresh head and bottom end that's been sitting for a long time. It will smoke if you rev it at idle. Not under load when driving it (I had someone follow me). It won't smoke at startup either hot or cold. I am pretty well colorblind, it's hard to tell if it's …
Last reply by Reptoid Overlords, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
- 1.5k views
hello I have a 1983 280zx turbo that is a automatic and my transmission output shaft is leaking! I replace the seal on the out side of the tail shaft with a new Nissan and it held up for few weeks and now it is leaking again. anybody have suggestion where to go next for this fix . thanks kully
Last reply by kully 560, -
- 3 followers
- 7 replies
- 2.7k views
When the engine warms up, the idle rises to 2100rpm. It stays there until coming to a nearly complete stop(~3mph), where it suddenly drops to 900. The car has no cruise or AC and has 62,000 miles. We brought it to our general mechanic, and he can't make heads or tails of it. Has anyone else had this problem before, or a good idea of what causes it?
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 follower
- 14 replies
- 2.3k views
Hey Guys My Z has been parked for 7 years but I'm about to have it going again. I stopped driving because the heater core valve under the dash started leaking. The car is actually running great, great throttle response but will cut out and misfire at 4500 rpm, even with no load, unless I change the base timing from 10btdc to 15btdc. At 15btdc it seems to rev out fine. I need to pass smog. I'm pretty sure I can set the base timing to 10 and take it in to pass but I would like to have this working correctly. I can't seem to find a distributor, I know I can send mine out to be rebuilt but mechanically there's really nothing wrong with it. I replaced the vacuum c…
Last reply by b_aero_eng, -
- 2 followers
- 33 replies
- 3.6k views
So I recently discovered this coolant leak near the intake that would leak in the intake gasket(the hole is behind the gasket) how do I plug it or fix it or something Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by toastedboy54,
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