Engine & Drivetrain
226 topics in this forum
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I finally bought the Z car I always wanted (well I can't afford a 240) a 1979 280ZX (which was the year I went in the Navy and while other guys had Z cars I had a 1974 Ford Country Sedan Wagon . Just drove it home and after running fine for about 20 minutes when I got on the freeway it started to "jerk" by losing power going up a slight incline and then surge back gradually going from 65 to 40 mph. I tried to nurse it home but it got worse until it was doing it on the level road and I finally pulled over and got a tow. Called the guy I bought it from and he suggested the fuel filter which looks new (he took the car on trade) but I'm going to go get one and replace it. …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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Hi Guys this is my 1st post in the forum. I really don't have any good suggestion for my question! I decided to buy LUK clutch kit which fit to my car 1980 280ZX but the flywheel not included in the set I made a search and I didn't find good flywheel. I found aluminum light weight but my friends didn't recommend it. I found Sach flywheel which is fit to 1980 280ZX 2+2 . its different than base 280ZX what do you guys recommend? I am thinking to buy 1980 280ZX 2+2 clutch kit and flywheel and fix it to my 1980 280ZX will that work?
Last reply by Ammkandari, -
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The PO of the parts car whose engine I'm in the process of disassembling/rebuilding has painted the intake manifold blue. Its not a half bad idea, but over the years it has chipped and the intake ports have quite a bit of crud on the inside. I have no experience with parts baths and the like. I'm looking for recommendations for the proper materials I need to remove the paint. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by David F, -
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I didn't want to hijack the recent thread about Shell Rotella oil that had started moving away from the Op's topic. So I thought I would ponder this in a new thread. About 3 weeks ago, i switched from modern conventional 10W30 oil to Valvoline VR1 conventional 10W30. This oil was added at the same time i replaced my clutch and replaced some engine oil seals. I'm wondering if the higher ZDDP content of this oil and it's added friction reduction properties have contributed to the drastic improvement in gas mileage or the more efficient(new) clutch set is the culprit. At the time of clutch replacement, i noticed it slipping only once, at which point i removed the tran…
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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Are EGR valves fast acting? Meaning when you test them (finger) method, do they close fast? Thanks.
Last reply by DC871F, -
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So my vacuum advance silinoid is leaking and i need a new one but from the hours of research ive done, everyone seems to have it out of stock or discontinued and ive tried napa, forum post part numbers, and just searching 280zx vacuum advance and a bunch of others and nothing... does anyone know where to get one? Oh and also its a 83 n/a Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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I have a ‘79 280ZX that has a leaky fuel damper. I have done many searches for the replacement part and have come up empty. It’s been out of production for many years and there is no new old stock either. So a couple of questions. Does anyone know of a replacement part number that will work? If no replacement is available, is the fuel damper really even needed? From what I understand, it is there to dampen any presssure spikes or pulses that may come from the nearby fuel pump. Thanks for any info guys!
Last reply by Chickenman, -
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Hi guys Can someone check the ohms on the crank position sensor of 83' turbo dizzy. I have big problems with my megasquirt re-install and would like to find out if my CAS sensor is bad. Green wire to Black(ground) I get 103 ohm. White to ground I get open circuit. green to red(power) is 106 ohm. white to red is 6.8 ohm I'm no electronic guy by any means I barely know what an ohm is. Please don't get to technical on me. Another question s how does one change the sensor? Do I use a puller to get the center round dics off(see pic) then I assume the circuit board and sensor can be removed! regards Dave
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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So a year ago I bought 79 280zx, I did everything to it from cleaning out the entire fuel system, cleaning the afm, valve adjustments, trying to clean the throttle body, I blew air through injectors and the fuel rail, sealed the tps after cleaning it, changed spark plugs and wires, ran fuel cleaner through it, and changed the plugged pcv tube, changed one injector to get rid of a misfire which it succeeded at doing, checked for vaccum leaks, corrected timing. It also would sometimes start up and the idle would go up and down and after driving for a bit it would stop the bad idle and it rarely stalled but started stalling more and more at only the first stop light times th…
Last reply by thetech101, -
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It is a t5 that it started to pop off when down shifting on second gear, now While driving it will shift fine on all gears but it will pop off second gear specially on low rpm when up shifting, troubleshooting while park and engine running it will engaged all gears except second gear that it Will pop off when letting the clutch off,anyone can help please? Sent from my SM-G360P using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by Mike, -
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Need idler air control valve for 1980 280ZX Phil Sacramento
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 2 followers
- 14 replies
- 14k views
What's the order I stick the spark plug cables into my distributor cap? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by Racer X,
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