Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,655 topics in this forum
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I've got my frontend all cleaned up and painted and soon I'll be putting it all back together. The pads under the cowl finisher were disintegrated and I'm wonder where I can get replacements. I don't see them listed in the Black Dragon catalogue or do you guys make them out of the correct thiskness of rubber mud flaps or something? Also, what do you guys use for the foam tape seal that runs vertical (top-to-bottom) behind the front fenders just ahead of the door hinges? May be I should just use a heavy bead of good silicone caulking? What ever I used for these materials, I'm thinking they shouldn't be able to hold moisture Any suggestions are appreciated Thanks Gary
Last reply by Healeyalt, -
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I want to coat some areas of the belly with POR-15 before the government starts dumping carcinogens all over the roads this winter. I don't want to over buy the POR, it is pricey. My question; what is the coverage, in Sq. Ft. for a quart of this stuff, or how much did it take to do one drivers side floor pan within and without. (inside and outside)
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
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Does anyone know the Nissan part number for the rubber weatherstripping that is on the top outside of the of the window frame of a '76 280z? I can't get the carfiche site to load up. Thanks, Brad
Last reply by Bradz240, -
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I am look for front fenders for my 1977.5 280Z. I ordered some replacement fenders from Black Dragon and they are better than the destroyed originals that I had, but they are still not in good shape. Does anyone know of a good source for front fenders? Thank you Jeff
Last reply by cozye, -
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Hi I have a late model 260z. I want to put a 240z grill on it-what do I need to make this happen. Does it bolt right up or does it need modifacations, if so what mods. Thanks zdude1967
Last reply by 5thhorsemann, -
- 6 replies
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I've got a nice heated garage to work in this Winter and I plan on taking my car apart piece by piece from front to back and cleaning it up the fender wells, underside, back side of the fenders, etc and coating with a rust preventive paint. I've already taken the front fenders off and I'm ready to clean the little bit of surface rust along some of the edges.. I've used POR15 products such as marine clean and metal ready for years. They are non-harzardous, but without ventilation, the POR15 paint will probably kill me! Does anyone know of a rust preventive paint that is safe to use indoors? I did find this stuff with a google search, but I never tried it and don't know whe…
Last reply by cozye, -
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I'm finding that my "100% rust free" 280z 2+2 I bought a couple of weeks ago isn't so rust free. All four of the ends of the frame rails where prior owner probably placed jacks and scratched the metal are pretty much rusted to pieces. However, at least the entire rest of the bottom of the car (eg, floor boards, trany tunnel, outriggers/cross members, etc) are completely free of rust. I have to keep reminding myself this thing was built 36 years ago and there has to be some rust. My first question is, in light of the above rusted frame rails, where would be the best spot to place jack stands? The jack stands I typically use on my vehicles are kind of big, heavy duty ones …
Last reply by LeonV, -
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I am in need of a RHD latch and cable for my 74 Fairlady, does anyone here know where I might find one. I have contacted the Australia Z car club but have had no luck as of yet. Thanks, Travis
Last reply by spitz17, -
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I've recently painted my 280 with a single stage paint over epoxy primer and since it was my first real paint job, got some orange peel. I've sanded it all down (no more orange peel) sanded with 600, then 1000, then 1500 and 2000, buffed with Mother's heavy cut with a variable speed rotary and up close still see fine sanding scratches, I'm kinda at a loss as to what to do any help will be appreciated.
Last reply by palosfv3, -
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I've pretty much thrown in the towel regarding finding good used rubber bumper ends for my 76 280z 2+2 and new ones are just too pricey. For those that have done the conversion to the fiberglass air dams w/ bumper detail and matching rear one, do you have any installation instructions and experience you could share with me. For example, is there a lot of grinding of the fiberglass to make a good fit or do they come pretty well fitting? How do they connect (eg, bolt on somehow to the old bumper brackets or bond them on, etc) Taking the front bumper shocks off looks easy enough, but do I need to take the rear bumper shocks off to get them out of the way or can I collapse th…
Last reply by Healeyalt, -
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Well, here's one for group. Finally got my new suspension and tires on my 1972 240Z, and after "spirited" but safe driving, have tire rubber bits and dust coating the sides of the car and lower panels. Was looking for the easiest and least harmful way to remove the melted residue without scrubbing off the paint. Heard WD40 works, but was looking for the least destructive way to remove residue after driving. I'm sure guys that track their cars have a way of dealing with this, as their cars always look great. Thanks, Andy
Last reply by ollie, -
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Just getting ready to paint my ground-up (I know, it sounds like what you do to cheap cuts of meat or the gears on very old Ford trucks, but then a 240Z can't be a "frame-up" resto, given it has no frame; can it?) restoration. I have the original orange paint code, but I'm getting conflicting signals on the rear finisher, that is to say the exterior metal panel that covers the rear vertical surface and frames the tail lights. I've been told that it's just flat black, but others have said it should have a silver tinge to it. Also the grille - I've got two and they both look flat black to me, but then 40 years does funny things to paint. Are they supposed to have any sh…
Last reply by Arne,
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