Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,653 topics in this forum
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Hey guys I bought some fender mirrors a while back and they were missing the black plastic parts that go between the mirror stalk and the top of the fender. Also the black plastic cylinders that cover the springs under the guards were missing too. Any ideas in where i might be able to get th see parts.
Last reply by d3c0y, -
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Here was my original thread regarding my worries http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39876 Finally snagged a digital camera for some pictures. I had always thought my car was pretty good for rust because it has a solid body. But once I found these a few months its had me worried sick day in and day out. Hope the pictures speak for themselves because I'm not sure how I'd explain it. That's the the inside of my front wheel well. Also is that little plate I found on the frame (right under the driver side)someones hack job band-aid? Not sure what that is... I know everything is fixable but how gone is too far gone?
Last reply by ajmcforester, -
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where is the popular place to get the stuff...ebay,amazon...secret black market website? Iguess i need a starter kit with all the prep chemicals...anyone a have any idea how much I will need to do the entire lower portion of my cars interior?
Last reply by Powderkeg, -
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Anyone use those fender patch panels from Black Dragon on a 280z? Are they complete ? What I mean is do they come all the way down and have the lip, plus the mounting hole for the bolt that goes up into the chassis? Both my fenders have the usual hidden rot, and I'll need to either replace the fender or cut just above or below the bend and replace the bottom. I'm thinking about giving these a shot.
Last reply by cozye, -
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I understand that the existing holes that the rubber side pieces currently mount to, will accept the mounting bolt for the side of the 240 bumpers front and rear. My question is what do you use to keep the bumper from scratching the paint? MSA list "bumper end shims" rear http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SBUC01B03 front http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SBUC01A08 Is this what I need? I'm trying to get what I need together as I'm getting ready to send my 240 bumpers off to chrome and I'm timing it so that I can get these mounted while prepping for paint and be ready for final mount once paint is done. I don't want to be scratching shiat up in the process.
Last reply by rdefabri, -
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I have a 1970 Z that was originally 907 Green. PDO painted it white. I am going to have the car blasted and repainted. I am torn between keeping this early car (4095) original or change to a modern color, i.e., platinum gray micas or metallic. Opinions wanted. Will it drastically devalue the car? I was leaning toward original, but every green car I see, seems to look dirty. Mike
Last reply by Oiluj, -
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Hello all This past evening I was forced to drive through rain. No bummer I thought it hasn't rained in Tucson in months. Well come to find that both my front and rear glass have magically sprung a leak. Two questions. 1. Does anyone know where one may acquire the window seal for the front and rear windows? 2. How hard is/are they to do and can I somehow save the chrome trim? Jan
Last reply by Z train, -
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This website (thecarcover.com) carries the Technalon Car Covers for WAY less than The Z Store... sounds TOO good to be true. Has anyone ordered from them? Mark
Last reply by Arne, -
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All, I picked up two mint condition tail light panels (that flank the center license plate). Looking at pieces, it APPEARS that the only thing holding on these two panels are small "rivets" that are similar to the interior black plastic rivets (that I used a pushpin to push out the center pin and then remove the rivet) that are positioned in a row at the top of the panels (visible when the hatch is in the "up" position). Is removal of the tail light panels just as easy, or is there something else to be aware of (yes - I'm learning to ask questions before blindly charging forward to start removnig bolts & screws <g>).
Last reply by EScanlon, -
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I know some members here have experienced the good ol' "doh! I'm an idiot and jacked from the wrong area." Well I apparently made the stupid mistake of jacking from the wrong area of the floor pan rail, resulting in an unattractive upward buldge. I have searched a few sites and found out the best option is to take a flat hammer and dolly and slowly work at it. Does anyone have any better options? Is the metal so thin that I should just go to a body shop to safe? The metal has no rust, so I do not think I have to worry about weak points. Any help would be greatly appreciated! :stupid:
Last reply by ZCurves, -
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OK, here's a pic of my stock '78 280: Now, everyone likes to criticize the "cow catcher" or "park bench" bumpers on these machines. However, I'm one of the few people who thinks the front bumper is really sexy, in a late '70's sort of way. It adds length to the front of the car and is visually a leading edge that gives the car the same sort of pointy nose as found on a G-nose (also an incredibly sexy style). It's visually a bit like the pitot tube of a jet fighter or the bullets in the grill of a 50's Buick. My complaint is about the rear bumper, which does look like a park bench and sticks out in a very non-aerodynamic sort of way. So what I'm wondering is this: …
Last reply by grantf, -
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It has taken a long time to weld up all the rusty parts and put the car together. I went to the body shop to see, Carl the owner works on and inspects all the work. I'm realy excited....Check out the other car in the picture. Thats a $125,000.00 Nissan GT-R.
Last reply by philbar73,
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