Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,653 topics in this forum
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I spent part of last weekend disassembling my doors. Once I got all the "guts" out, I was left to ponder the rust on the inside, which was not too bad. Regardless, I want to kill ALL the rust that is there and get the treated surfaces sealed to forestall any future rot. However, I discovered in each door panel the “curiosityâ€� that I'm calling a reinforcing beam. This part does not show up as a separate piece on the parts microfiche because it's integral to the door panel itself. The first picture shows the side with the strips of, let’s call it, black “foamâ€� that keep the assembly in intimate contact with the door skin. The curious part is the fact that th…
Last reply by JimmyZ, -
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Yes thats right folks, I've finally started doing some of the smaller body work on my 280. I'm starting off with the hood doing the body work and getting it into primer then moving to the doors and fenders. Man working on a hood with a few dents is nothing compared to trying to get a sub woofer box straight.
Last reply by zanthus, -
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I've been doing a lot of background research recently regarding how to (1) neutralize rust and (2) prepare bare metal surfaces for later painting. Item 2 leans towards keeping freshly-created bare metal (from sandblasting) from developing "flash rust" and then having a ready acceptance of a primer coat. Anyway, I've identified three ways to get my metal to where I want it to be. All three are based upon the reaction of phosphoric acid with iron oxide (rust) to form iron phosphate. The first way is to use a product called Ospho (www.ospho.com). The second way is to use the PPG product tandem of DX579 Metal Cleaner followed by DX520 Metal Conditioner. The third way i…
Last reply by 26th-Z, -
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Pics of my rolling chassis on 7/31/08 just before being towed home. Hood ended-up staying because William needs to fix a small flaw. Engine & seats will be done in about 1-1/2 weeks. The assembly fun begins!
Last reply by Oiluj, -
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I tried a quick search and didn't turn much up regarding single stage paints. I know my second question is pretty much paint specific and I'll probably need to ask the shop mixing it, but the rest I'm still kind of stuck on. First I would like to mention that yes, I am aware of the benefits of BC/CC over a single stage paint, but the rest of the car is single stage and I'm just touching up my rear end. I'll be using RM paint since they had the colour that best matched what's on there now (when they over-layed the chip on my paint I couldn't even tell it was there). First question. I'll be using a metallic paint, and since you aren't supposed to wet-sand a metallic, and …
Last reply by CanadianGTR, -
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Hi, I am restoring my 1979 280 zx and I really want to get the back window out so I clean any scale that may be in the channel..what is my best way to remove the rear window trim?
Last reply by beandip, -
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Hi, The nose on my 280z hood is dented in. Has anyone tried repairing it before themselves? Does anyone have any tips/steps on how to repair.? I know someone will say that it will be easier to buy another one.. true, but if I tried to repair my hood myself, is it possible...? I look forward to your feedback.. Thanks.
Last reply by JimmyZ, -
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Because I've been and will be doing so much work on my '72, I'm thinking about the spare tire well. Firstly, there is absolutely no rust anywhere on the tire well. This is, frankly, amazing considering how much rust there is on other areas of the car and what I've seen in other S30s. I don't intend to restore my car. I intend to rebuild and improve it as a road car. And I don't intend to have a spare tire on board. Thus, the car will never be "stock" and the tire well is thus superfluous. I'd salvage the part and make it available to someone who needed it. In addition, I think there are a number of aftermarket gas tanks that would work quite well in an S30 and sit hi…
Last reply by Seppi72, -
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This is probably in the nits and grits category but I want to get the engine and transmission on my 72 to their original colors. On my transmission it looks like the steel adapter plate (assembled you just see a 3/4" wide steel band) at the end of the transmission case has some faded blue on it. Does anyone know if it was originally painted the same Datsun blue as the engine block? As always, any help would be appreciated.
Last reply by swflaz, -
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Is there a difference between the Left and Right bumper guards on 240z bumpers? Also is there a difference between 70-72 and 73 bumper guards?
Last reply by cunniwj, -
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Hi There, Im New Here ... Does Any Body Know Where Or How Can I Get A New Ledge For My 73' 240z Or Do I Just Get A Body Shop Guy To Put A New Piece Of Metal?
Last reply by geezer, -
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I'M trying to find what brand, not coming from MSA, could not locate any similar..
Last reply by guy_geo,
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