Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,653 topics in this forum
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I working on a restoration of 73 240z. Although I'm not trying for a concourse restoration I'm trying to keep it as much as possible original looking. It appears one of the previous owners did most the body work with an axe and a truckload of bondo. As I work my way around the vehicle repairing and replacing body panels, I do not know how the original panels were assembled. Currently I'm working on replacing the rear panel below the tail light panel and the rear corner panels that connect quarter panel to the rear panel. My questions are: does the corner panel mount on top of the rear panel or behind the panel ( see pics). Second, once the panels are installed is th…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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I am prepping a 1976 280z for paint. I'm assuming most people separate the sugar scoop from the fender when painting the car and paint both separately? Is there a gasket or anything that sits between them? Anyone have any experience or pictures where the scoop is welded to the fender? Obviously there would be a chance to warp the metal. But given they are tightly bolted together, curved surfaces, and it's a flanged butt joint, seems like it would be fairly resistant to warping. Seems straightforward to jump around making a lot of tack welds, grind smooth and finish with a skim coat of filler. But I wanted to get some opinions. …
Last reply by zKars, -
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I bought these to go on my 73 Z bumper. They don't quite clear the rubber trim in front (they are a little wide). Are these for 1973 240Z? TIA
Last reply by Trimpe.bob@gmail.com, -
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working on the windows. taking everything out. cleaning. replacing regulators etc. I got the rubber piece off the driver window pretty much intact. Would like to replace but havent found it. Anyone know where you can buy them or what this is actually called?
Last reply by Wally, -
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I am just not getting to putting on my new bumpers. I am on the back sides currently. the rubbers are on and tightened up but look bad. they dont hug the bumper. I am not supposed to use some type adhesive am I?
Last reply by w3wilkes, -
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I am a bit unsure about the replacement floor pans available for the 2+2 version which we are working on resurrecting. I have made my own repairs on the rear floor sections with some 18 ga sheet metal and they came out OK but lots of work for such a small area. The preformed front floor repair panels would be a much better looking and easier option. Will the standard 280Z panels work? Which brand option works the best. Not afraid to have to do some modifications, additional fabrication to make them fit and work. Thanks in advance for any helpful info, John-Lugoff, SC.
Last reply by One Way, -
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So I was pulling plating together today. This window roller is in bad shape. The rubber is rock hard and is flat on one side. So I worked on getting it apart. I crimped the end back closed and got the pin back through. Then the roller came out So then I was like, where am I gonna source a new roller. I wonder if Steve Nixon makes one? Lo and behold! https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/7727245 @nix240z I plan on reusing the tube and expanding it with a long skinny punch
Last reply by nix240z, -
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My kids picked up a 3D printer over the holidays, so I thought I try to figure it out and learn how to use it. I just happened to be replacing the rubber wipes on the door window trim, and noticed there were no end caps. Not sure if this is how the car came, or just went missing over the years. I downloaded FreeCAD and started to play around with it. After a lot of youtube videos, I was able to design and print some caps. Haven't installed them on the car yet to confirm the overall fitment, so hopefully no issues. I used PLA filament for the sample pieces (it's the only one I have at the moment). If these work out, I will pick up some ABS filament and reprint t…
Last reply by carrottoplives, -
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In the interest of guarding against potential rust, does anybody know the locations of the drains? If these are clogged, water backs up and rusts the metal out. For example, there are 3 drain holes on the bottom of both doors and one for the antenna Anybody know any others?
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
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So...I'm realizing that I should have been a lot more involved in the body restoration of our Z. I did all the disassembly and I'm doing all the reassembly, but the body was restored by a shop near where my dad lives, about 450 miles away. Of note, the body shop didn't have any specific Z restoration experience, and it kind of shows. Two questions for today. See attached pics. 1. The passenger side of the hatch sits flush with the roof, but the driver's side is elevated. It wasn't like this before. The adjustment slots for the hinge don't have enough travel to bring the edge down. Any ideas as to what might have happened and how I can line it up? 2. …
Last reply by ETI4K, -
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I've seen some suggestions on how to install the rubber door bumpers that go into the body at the rear end of the doorjamb but I can't find them. Does anyone remember or know any tricks on putting these things in. I've done the soapy water thing but it still won't go.
Last reply by Patcon, -
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i have some good stock images of the undercarriage but can someone confirm the color type they use. It looks to me like a gloss black but i could be wrong
Last reply by Wally,
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