Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,654 topics in this forum
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- 14 replies
- 2.6k views
What do you think? http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=4652 Art
Last reply by 260DET, -
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- 2 replies
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I have a 1972 240z, I am looking for body panels. If you know of a company where I can get some please let me know. I need alot of different ones possible even floors. If you know some places to get some or even have any tips or hints for my future project please let me know! cremmenga@hotmail.com , thanks.
Last reply by hls30.com, -
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- 1.7k views
Are the hood hinges gold cad plated or body color for an original car?
Last reply by Victor Laury, -
- 14 replies
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Me again, before anyone yells at me I will have you know I have searched the forum and found some answers but not all. As you know my car has been sand blasted. I took it to a body shop and the man told me i needed to: 1.Apply an acid etcher, something like the OSPHO product 2.Sand the car with a 120-150 grit paper to remove embedded sand in metal to smooth it out 3.Then apply epoxy primer to seal car Does this seam accurate to you? I may have mixed these steps up so clarification would be nice. And yes the bodyman i spoke with is very good. He demonstrated the sanding on a 1968 Shelby KR500, so he knows his stuff. Thanks! PS-Any suggestions would be nice, and how long…
Last reply by PyroSparks911, -
- 5 replies
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Hi gang, I'm cleaning up the '73 (runs better than it looks) hoping to make it look as good as it runs. But after taking the engine out and cleaning up around the passenger side rail and inner fender I found a chunk of bondo holding a large piece above the rail. I'm attaching some pix. So, I know anything CAN be fixed, as it's hard to tell by just pix, but how critical is this area of rust? Would be better to use by rust-free '72 that has no interior or engine, and use the goodies from the '73? Maybe save the '73 for a pure race car with new frame rails???? I'm going to have a welding friend of mine look at it for some advice, but I trust the opinion of this crowd more…
Last reply by Ed, -
- 27 replies
- 8.1k views
I have had the luxary of stripping my interior over the last week. I have known about a little bit of rust in the floor for a while and really wanted to tackle it sooner rather than later. Passenger side is worse than drivers side by far. I am pretty sure the passenger needs to just be replaced while the driver I think I can fix. Just wanting to get an opinion from some guys with more experience and have gone through this before. Passenger behind seat Passenger front driver front driver rear and on a side note, is this rippling common? It looks to me like it has been compressed from a wreck or something but this is the only sign of damge anywhere. thanks
Last reply by Zeus, -
This is not saying go out and buy it. Ill try to get some pics up soon. If you already know or didn't i had some rust (cough cough ) on my floors(holes). I took the advice of the smart ones and replaced them. well I did not really replace the floors just did some patching which is not all that hard if u practice with a welder.(which i had to do) over all i was happy with it. i wanted to make sure that the floors say as good as they can for years to come. so what i did i ordered the por15 floor pan kit. i did all the prep and i applied the fabric with the por15 paint. one thing about this paint is that its thick. unfortanly i got some on my hand right now and it takes some…
Last reply by Bruce Palmer, -
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I have a 73 240z put some additional gasket material arounr rear hatch..I have to put pressure on hatch to close it(did this to get rid of fumes) lock worked for a while,now can,t get hatch open. Can turn the lock to the two positions but in the unlock position (perpendicular to car) there is no resistance just like locked position. The hatch is sticking up quite a bit looks like I might be able to unscrew the lock mounting bolts or perhaps cut them off. Tried taking off license plate light cover thinking there might be a way into lock,now cant put back on ,floating mounting nuts. The lock sometimes works inthe normal manner . The lock shop says the lock appears to be…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
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Im new to this site and planning on buying a 240z soon. I been researching close to a year. I like to know if chemical rust removal helps any, especially on light to moderate areas. And other rust be cut out patched and painted? This will not be a show car but something nice to cruise around in. Any suggestion? Live in sunny southern California so future rust will not be too much of a problem.
Last reply by 240zis4me, -
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I have done a search, but what I am specifically looking for is what grit sandpaper to use and maybe any tips you guys have to offer. I'm replacing the pcv valve and valve cover gasket tomorrow, decided to go ahead and do this so I have will more to fill my day off..
Last reply by sonofzzzap, -
- 19 replies
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hey guys As most of you know im going crazy trying to find a front spoielr atm and i have found a guy who makes replicas of the california Z front spoiler, but i cant for the life of me find a pic of one. Does anyone out there have a pic? Thanks
Last reply by Gav240z, -
- 1 reply
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G'day, As of late I've been having trouble locking the drivers door on my Zed with the key, it locks, but only by pushing down the plungery thing ( you know what I mean :stupid: ) Today I looked at the Zed side on and noticed that the door appears to have 'dropped' a few mm. I was thinking this could cause the problem, as the key turns the barrel inside the door fine ( I've had it all apart to see), but when you turn it the plunger/knob bit doesn't seem to be lowered far enough to lock. The door has a bit of movement in the hinges, so I was thinking this is the problem? If it is, how would I go about 'lifting' the door, or would I need hinges? Any help appreciated.
Last reply by xray,
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