Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
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I have a 1972 240Z and about to start its restoration process. I have this grille in good shape that I was thinking about cleaning and painting it to rplace the original one (the original one is also in good shape as far as I can tell but it´s still in the car and I was thinking that I could renew the other grille to gain some time and when I start disassembling the front end it´d be just a matter of dropping in the freshly painted one) but the "new" grille is different, doing some photo research I´m led to believe its from a 260Z and the lower bars are shorter to acomodate the later model´s bumper mounts. My question is: Would it fit right in onto my car or would I need…
Last reply by julitoMX_1964, -
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i am taking out all or most of the engine parts out of car to paint. It was previously done all black. I would like to know others thoughts. should i stay with black or try to use same color as the outside of car, the mysterious 918 orange like color?
Last reply by Wally, -
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I am soon going to get the 240z I have been working on for a couple of years painted. It was originally 901 silver. My plan is to have the painter paint it like the factory did it. And so, I'd like to confirm how the factory did it, if possible. Why? While doing the body work for the last many months, I have concluded that the fasteners that secure some of the body panels in place change the final shape of the panel. A good example of this is the front fender. There are two bolts that secure the bottom of the fender panel to the unibody. Tightening those bolts down causes a slight distortion in the panel. If you get the bottom of the fender perfect while…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Quick question for you guys, I need to remove the hatch to glue some outer weatherstripping. I remember reading that if you take the wrong screws/bolts off the hatch, it's a pain to get the hatch to close again properly. Which should I take off in the below picture to not disturb the closing alignment of the hatch, the screws boxed in red or the bolts boxed in blue? Any ideas? -chase
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
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So I went to visit a new customer today to talk about a restoration. Nice little 70, VIN around 2600 or something. He is having the all too common “body Shop hell” problem, and he’s moving from one to the other right now. The old shop partly painted the fenders and the interior, the underside, engine bay. All 918 orange. I went to see it today with him at the new body shop and have the “talk” with the proprietor. You know the one. Anyway.. Heres my problem. I walked into a bay with the door open, bright sunny day, And there was ANOTHER 918 Orange paint job that did not look right to me. It looks distinctly PEACH hued, not really the vibrant orange I’ve come to e…
Last reply by Richard McDonel, -
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I have a complete MSA weather seal kit I'm about to start applying to my 240. What, if any adhesive do you guys reccomend? I'll start with the hatch then the doors. Thank you for any advice on this. I've read NONE is needed but hesitant to do that because of other threads I've read that reccomend something black in the channels. Not sure of the product though. Thanks for any advice from experienced applications.
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
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So I'm about to have my recently acquired 77 280 into the paint shop for a complete repaint job. To save a few bucks ,the guy who is painting it suggested that I remove all of the badging and side moldings, side marker lights and such. Light removal is pretty clear (Just remove the screws). Does anybody have any suggestions about how to release the badging and riveted side body moldings. Assuming I have to drill the aluminum rivets behind the rubber of the moldings but is replacing them a challenge?
Last reply by 87mj, -
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I was trying to install a MSA replica BRE front lip (vented) and noticed that there is gap between the end of the spoiler and the bottom of the front radiator support. I think this might be how the replica molds are made, and I'm not sure. Based on this video it appears that an front spoiler from BRE will just about touch the lower radiator support. My early 260z was missing the lower valance from the car, I had acquired one for a 240z from a member on HybridZ and modified the mounting points to fit my 260z. I think its highly likely that I messed up the fitment of the valance on the car, is there supposed to be a gap between the valance and the lower rad…
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
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Hi everyone. I'm in search of a weatherstrip kit for the car. The prices seem to range some what $228 to $300+ a kit. few questions: - Anyone using any of the kit below carparts.com zcardepot.com zcarsource.com ocautocarpets.com thezstore.com I'm sure there are a few more kit from other sources as well. It doesn't say the kit have the groove for the chrome on top of the windshield and hatch back. please share your experience how's the fitment as I read some kit doesn't seal well on the windshield top corners and doors won't close. regards
Last reply by 240zadmire, -
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Ok... I have one out of two locks on my rear louvers. The one that I have is pretty beat up by someone just using a screw driver to open it. Do any of you have any of these locks that you want to sell???
Last reply by CanTechZ, -
- 3 followers
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Hi all, Is there an upper door sill repop available? I have significant rust on both driver and passenger side where the thin vertical piece where the door closes. It looks like a gnarly repair if you were to start cutting it out and fabricating it. The car is on a rotisserie. It looks like there are a few joints there from the inner door sill and outer. THanks all.
Last reply by DC871F, -
- 3 followers
- 2 replies
- 599 views
want to redo the upholstery, new dash. also want to to paint the car to a darker grey and add new rubber seals on glass not sure which would be best to do first. any help is appreciated
Last reply by zed2,
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