Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,653 topics in this forum
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I am painting my suspension but I switched flattening agents and the new one makes it much flatter than the old one. I am trying to figure out which one is close to correct This is the early flattener I was using not very flat. Fairly glossy and looks nice This is the later flattener. Much flatter. almost no gloss Cross member is pretty flat too Table full of parts Can someone give me some direction on which finish is correct. The glossy one is the easiest but I'd like to shoot for the most correct finish.
Last reply by cgsheen1, -
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I have a 75 280z and want to put the 240z bumpers on. I have all the things to do the conversion but don't know were to start. Is their anyone out there that has done this conversion.
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I am restoring a 71' 240 at the moment. My car has had a pretty good smack to the front end at some point in its life. To save a lot of time and effort at the body shop I am wanting to hunt down a donor car for the front end work. I have found various options that hopefully will work. I have located several 260's i can get my hands on to chop up. My question is would any of the S30's work for the body parts in this picture? I do not know if there were major differences between the years with the main shell of the cars.
Last reply by Clay C, -
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Hi all. I need to replace my door mirrors and want a factory look. I have been looking at Miata mirrors and was wondering if the mirrors on the 240sx would work. Has anybody tryed this? I want them to sit level so the rake of the side of the door is a big factor. I know this will take some fiddling but could look contemporary and original to the car if done right. Thanks
Last reply by grannyknot, -
Spoiler...
by Holton- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 760 views
Hi All... Has anybody ever seen this airdam? I think I like it and would like a better look...lights in the grill are neet as well...
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 1 follower
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I'm on my last body panel and of course run into unexpected issues. Rust has infiltrated between the hatch skin and the 'doubler' shown in the picture. The result is some pinholes in the outer skin, and a lot of swelling between the two pieces of steel. This piece clearly had to come out. Question is what to do now. I think replacing the piece and joining it with body adhesive is probably the way to go. Any suggestions as to what material can be used between these two pieces of steel that will keep water and rust out? Or any other suggestions on how to repair this area? Thanks in advance.
Last reply by Patcon, -
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- 9 replies
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https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,602885,wiper+linkage+/+transmission,8856 Harold Burroughs posted on FB yesterday about the availability of new aftermarket S30 wiper linkage from Dorman, PN 602-885. Just thought I’d spread the word. He reported the find from Advance Auto’s website, but Rock Auto has access to it also. Anyone with access to Dorman can get it. The price is impressive, $69 CAD. That’s about a $1.98 in USD, so who can resist? Yes as we know you can rebuild and re-lube the stock stuff, but if your shafts are all rusty (as all us old guys know), no amount of lubrication will make things go smoothly or last that much longer.
Last reply by SurferD, -
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Any idea what the best way to strip these to prep for paint? The previous owner put on paint that is chipping and flaming away and I want to get it down to have a reliable base for primer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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SO I pulled the rear slam panel from my 240 and of course there was some underlying rust which I cut out. Not there are alot of complex curves and shapes in that rear section and I have a whole donor rear end. Is it logical to cur down lower to in the panel at a flat area to have a nice mating surface for the two panels. The pictures below may provide some clarity to what I'm saying. Any input as this is my first attempt at THIS much body work ( I have tons more to do on the car). Here is where I want to cut , I'll pull off the support brace first (already cut out the top rusted sections): Here is the donor: I already pulled up the…
Last reply by DC_Mike, -
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I was looking at a couple of grills for my 240z project. One is the Skillard grill that fills the whole front end. especially when running an air dam. The other is a similar grill I found on Ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Billet-Aluminum-Grille-2-Taller-Then-Stock-Grille/192931904057?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 I was wondering if anyone has tried either of the grills? Any comments on fit or appearance? Are the bars similar in size to the factory grill? Thanks, C
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 519 views
Anyone know the correct door gap between fender and front edge of door I can’t seem to find it online. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last reply by AK260, -
- 3 followers
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I am roughly 6 months (estimated) away from putting the car in the shop for body work. In the meantime, I am stripping the car and enjoying it after getting it running right and in a reliable state. The car had a vinyl top which I removed hastily a year ago causing a majority of the adhesive to bake onto roof. I recently removed the vinyl from the hatch lid which left me in awe at the original paint. Neither here nor there... Real reason for the post - Is it worth putting some sort of rust inhibitor on the roof and affected areas between now and until it goes into the body shop? How does that affect body work in the future? For the roof, is…
Last reply by Patcon,
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