Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,655 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
- 1.9k views
I finished my rotisserie. $80 bucks in metal and a 200 dollar welder. Now she's ready for the basting.:classic:
Last reply by nutxo, -
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- 3 replies
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I purchased a decal set for my 72 240z from Banzai Motorworks. Looked thought all my Sport Z mags and all my reference and restoration manuals for pics of proper location. Can't find any photos or even any descriptions. Any suggestions other than to find someone who has a concours model and take a look under the hood?
Last reply by GregV72, -
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Alright, here's one that's got me stumped. How am I going to get the waviness and distortions out of the rear valence of my Z so that the bottom edge appears straight? I want the rear straight at the bottom edge, but it is so hard because the valence isn't secured to the main structure. My body-man friends only idea was to either buy a new rear valence or cut most of it off and use an english wheel. What should I do? I included a picture of exactly what I want, it includes the dual exhaust cutouts and the shaved rear bumper mounts. Thanks. -David
Last reply by zed240au, -
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Im looking to get a 240, but I may end up with a 280 just because its so much easier to find, and I have found couple potential 280s that i might buy. Just wanted to know how much work/$$$ is required to get the 240 front/rear bumper look into the ugly 280 bumpers. Thanks, sorry if its been asked many times (which it probably has but couldnt find anything)
Last reply by bigd652, -
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Does anyone have any experience with Picklex 20? It's "A combination metal surface cleaner, surface rust remover, 100% rust converter (including mill scale), conditions metal and provides a conductive metallurgical protective coating for long term rust protection, all in one application." http://www.ashjentech.com/picklex.htm Is there a BETTER rust converter/remover out there? Thanks.
Last reply by 0100, -
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Well, some of the first rust-hole patching that I'm going to have to do on the beast will be small patches that are vertical. I was practicing today (off the car), and my horizontal welds are coming out pretty good, but I'm having problems with the vertical welds. I'm using a small Lincoln MIG with gas BTW. For thin sheet metal like our cars, is it better to run the bead top to bottom, or bottom to top? I was having the most problems trying a vertical weld with the pieces at 90 degrees to each other (an inside corner). It was like the gas was cooling the metal too fast or blowing the weld pool off, and it kept dripping and not penetrating. Do I need less gas pressur…
Last reply by Adam, -
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I have a 71 that is starting to bubble up some rust in the area directly behind the rear bumper. This is the body sheet metal, not the tail light surrounds. I have never seen a Z rust in that spot before. IT must be rare, since the Victoria and MSA catalogs don't show replacemnt panels for that part. Does any one out there know of a source for that panel? Thanks, Marty
Last reply by St.stephen, -
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I saw a nice rear bumper on ebay from a '71 and I was wondering if anyone knows if it will fit a '73. The parts books show different numbers for these and I don't know if is because they just look different or that they mount different. Thanks, Mark
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
Door seals
by tanny- 8 replies
- 1.8k views
I just installed a driver side main door seal on my 240 that I purchased from VB. It had no metal clip incorporated into it like my original seal. The door is quite hard to close now and it's not sealing worth a damn. It is definitely installed correctly, but is totally unacceptable. I think I remember reading about other people having similar problems. Does anyone know where to order a seal that is the same as the original and that works? If so, do you have a part number? Thanks, Victor
Last reply by carguyinok, -
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The pin that the spring arm thing rubs on (driver's side) to hold it open looks like it broke off. Can you just hammer out the remaining bit and insert a new one? I was thinking about threading the hole and screwing in a bolt. Thx.
Last reply by LanceM, -
- 5 replies
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I've got quite a bit of rust behind my fenders/rockers/quarters, hell its everywhere. For the spots you can't see, like behind the fenders, would it be ok to use fiberglass to fix the panels instead of welding in a patch? (Not the bondo fiberglass, actual fiberglass.) Also, I'm replacing everything with fiberglass. All other panels are bolt on but how would I go about bonding fiberglass quarterpanels to the metal? I guess I'm just trying to get out of spending $500+ for a welder......
Last reply by 2ManyZs, -
- 3 replies
- 3.2k views
More of the fancy graphics like the Mini:
Last reply by carguyinok,
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