Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,654 topics in this forum
-
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 801 views
Truth be told I am painting my second complete car. So I am just a novice. The first was an mgb. This one is a 73 240z. When I painted the “B” I removed the doors, hood and trunk lid. The first problem was how to paint both sides of something using a 2 stage paint system. I purchased a few paint stands (scissor type) and they are a necessity if you are going to do any paint or body work. After struggling with the stands and painting one side at a time I finally broke down and bought a simple rolling rack. Mine isn’t very expensive (about $90). It is terrific for painting small light parts both sides at once. I never figured out a good way to suspend heavy awkwar…
Last reply by qz16, -
-
- 3 followers
- 23 replies
- 5.3k views
I am working on replacing my rocker panel and i cannot change the gap shown in the images attached. The driver's door and fender meet up nicely like they did previously, but the rocker panel is inset of both. Its like it's diving inward towards the trans tunnel along the length of the rocker. Anyone seen this? My only thought is to cut along the top of the rocker along it's length and pull it out to meet the door/fender and then reweld it up. Thoughts?
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 3 followers
- 14 replies
- 1.5k views
My original door fits fine but has dents so I picked up a replacement door Problem is I can’t get the door to line up at the top and bottom unless I take out the bolts on the bottom bracket and move the door out. The only way I can think about fixing this is cutting out the door captive nuts and welding them where I need. Original door New door Bolt alignment to get the door flush as you can see this is beyond enlarging the holes on the brackets Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 788 views
I've been doing a bit of research on recip saws and came across a review of a (relatively) new product entry by Ingersoll-Rand. It's a cordless mini (0.55" stroke) targeted specifically for the auto body repair industry... One of its primary attractions is the ability to make relatively tight-radius curved cuts. It comes with a six 'extra-coarse' 4" blades (3 x 14 tpi + 3 x 18 tpi), rated for thick-ish sheet metal gauges, along with with two 12V Li-ion batteries and a charger stand. The blades may use a proprietary locking design (I've found conflicting reports on this) but, in any case, I-R offers a variety of replacement blade sets, including a 6-pack of 32…
Last reply by 240260280, -
- 5 followers
- 50 replies
- 7.8k views
Not just the skin - the whole damn thing. Anyone done it? Been searching and can’t find much. Anyone know of a thread where someone has done it?
Last reply by madkaw, -
- 4 followers
- 10 replies
- 1.3k views
Does anyone knows what size and type of round rubber seals go in these holes on the floor behind the seats? Who sells them?
Last reply by James@TheZStore, -
- 2 followers
- 5 replies
- 1.4k views
Hi All, I took off the original rear louvers the other day and realized my rear glass trim is completely dried out and missing the metallic trim that goes in the seals. I did some looking around and can't seem to find the metallic trim for the 280z 2+2 rear hatch glass. I found some new old stock seals on ebay for the 2+2 but the trim is missing. I saw on vintagerubber.com that they have "Cal Style" seals that don't have the channels for the trim but they only work for the coupe. If I can get something similar for the 2+2 that would work even better. Any one know where I can get either the metalic trim with seal or just the seal with the channels for a 2+2?
Last reply by 7tooZ, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 1.1k views
I'm doing the last of the sanding on the primer of the 77/280 and will be starting paint within the next couple of weeks. The car is going back together completely stock and the original paint code is 305 Light Blue with a white interior which is okay I guess, but I really like code 307 Pacific Blue. If I was keeping the car I would go with 307 but like every project this car will be up for sale pretty soon after completion. So, do I go with the original colour 305 or go with what I think is a more popular and saleable colour 307? Or maybe I'm over thinking it. Original colour, or 307,
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 4 followers
- 4 replies
- 1.6k views
Hi everyone: I've searched but I can't find any size information for the (2) bolts on the bottom of the fender along the bottom edge of the rocker panel, just behind the front wheels. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
Last reply by kunzma, -
My 240z project 1 2 3 4 7
by joe newsom- 15 followers
- 75 replies
- 11.3k views
Bringing back my grandpas car back to life. Had many memories riding in this car when I was a little guy.. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 7 replies
- 3.7k views
What did you thinks about this parts of my car, what is the best way to repair? I thinking to unspot the weld of the reinf hood ledge to treat the the rust inside but can i find only the upper parts of the hood ledge (in England?) For the part under the head lamp case what is the best way?
-
- 18 replies
- 2.6k views
Howdy Y'all, Been waiting on this job to get back to me, so I've been attacking the seat support / floor pan on my 260z. I got the seat supports repaired from the damaged sections, but want to approach the floor pan in the easiest manor. Here are some pictures. So on the floor pan itself there is a section thats near the rocker that has a radius curve upward, then a flat section (seen by the space between my index finger and thumb) Im thinking that this is going to be difficult to replicate on a flat piece of sheet metal. I plan to save that Charlie's Pan for my other Z, this car just needs the rear section of the pan. Now I understand that i…
Last reply by heyitsrama,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
