Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,653 topics in this forum
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So I am having a hard time with my front 71 front bumper. I have sent it off to be re plated by a local plater. However it has always seemed to flexing like someone hit something head on. The plater is having a hard time bending back to what I think is normal. So my question is to you guys, is it normal for the front bumper to be 1 1/2 in or so away from the mounting holes ? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by ramsesosirus, -
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Sorry if this is all a bit precious, but it's been almost a year since I got started and I don't want to screw up so close to the end! First question: I'm in the middle of -- what I hope will be-- the final blocking before shooting color (single stage paint). I'm at 320 and for the most part, things are looking good, but I have a couple of spots where I've sanded through the primer and back to metal, and a couple spots where I need a little spot putty that the high build didn't get. Like this spot on the fender, which is probably the worst of it: I see three ways I could go here: Put some spot putty on the low spots, continue blocking to 400 and jus…
Last reply by charliekwin, -
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I have a '72 and am in the process of replacing some rusted metal. I have read of the possibilty of bonding the under-hatch (above tail lights) repair panel using one of the high-tec body adhesives. Has anyone done this? I thought about using this method along with spot welds on the braces coming off the rear panel above the tag. Seems like this would eliminate the possibility of rust after welding in hard to treat areas. Any thoughts? Does anyone have one of these panels made by Nissan they would like to sell? Thanks!
Last reply by Jughead, -
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I stripped my doors with a cleaning wheel and the one door is mint with a small rust spit in the corner. Easy fix, however the passenger door has a couple proper dents. I think i should be able to pop one of em, the other is fairly large and when I push it out from the inside she sucks back down. Oil an is that what these ones are called? What's the best method to fix that style or will I be laying 1/4 inch of rage gold on er like the previous owner did Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I bought a complete set of doors weatherstrip for my 240z from vintage rubber. Does anyone know of a better supplier that can provide a tight and snug fit weatherstrip of the drivers door without using any silicone sealer?
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
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As the title says. I have cut out the rear quarter smaller than the replacement panel, and I am ready to start drilling out the spot welds. While looking at how the two parts of the inner fender and the body are spot welded together I am wondering if it might be easier to remove the whole rear fender to give access to the inner fenders? I have replaced on other cars many quarter panels, rockers, and such so this is just a question of access and advice. I will also be replacing floor pans, rockers, front quarters and under the battery tray. The car is down to a bare shell and has been media blasted. Thanks for your insight.
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Well you never know what you might find in a Z at a wrecking yard. I found a brand new Kamei ABS front lip air dam, complete with the original documents and sticker. It attaches with a few screws to the underside of a stock valence. Good for Z's through 6/74 apparently. There is several pages of instructions and a letter from the manufacturer thanking you for purchacing their products. There is no indication of dates on the paper work, but I'm thinking late 80's early 90's? Nothing on it remotely resembling an email or web site, Anyone know more about the life cycle of Kamei? I'm no fan of this thing, just something cool I found. …
Last reply by LeonV, -
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This should generate some lively discussion... Most of us have tried a variety of rust-prevention products. If you're like me, you've found that some don't quite live up to expectations. Many swear by a particular product, but I often wonder if their allegiance is tied to subconsciously defending the choice they made. There are lot of manufacturer's claims published and a lot of one-use testimonials, but not much in the way solid comparative date to back them up. Back in 2011, 'Classics Monthly' -- one of England's leading auto restoration publications -- began a test of a group of the leading, over-the-counter rust prevention products. The test lasted for t…
Last reply by Namerow, -
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I’m looking at the roll pan on Z Car Depot and wondering if this is the best option for replacing the caved in one on my car. The spare tire well makes beating this thing back into shape way more expensive than just welding in a new one, so I was just about to pull the trigger on this, and then I started wondering if it would be better to try to find one someone has on a dead car. ZCD wants $253 after shipping, which is QUITE a lot. If I can finagle free shipping it would be $189, which still feels high. Thoughts?
Last reply by Matthew Abate, -
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Cleaning up the engine bay in my 73. Between the firewall and fender and between fender and the rail there is a gap. Was this previously filled in with a rubber caulk like material?. I have been power washing and may have washed some of it out. so question would be what to go back with. There is a 3m marine product 3200 and 3600 that is rubbery. the 3600 material is almost not removable.
Last reply by hls3073z, -
- 2 followers
- 13 replies
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Trying to get my bumper back on and aligned after a rechroming and the contrary to the FSM the thing is a PITA to install. Seems no matter what way I tighten it down or twist brackets the bumper wont go on without hitting the rear valence in some way or chipping paint with it ?. Is there some magic trick to getting the bumper installed to prevent this? Should there be spacers for the rear brackets to help bring the bumper away from the valence? should the bumper be lined up straight with the bottom of the taillight trim? Should it go into the dip on the rear valence? Any help/pictures of a proper install would be appreciated.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 6 followers
- 9 replies
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So my 1971 240Z is in the paint shop. My body man asked about the body line that runs just above the wheel arches. Question relates to this line seeming to disappear or fade out at the arches. How prominent is this body line at the arches on the cars that still have original paint?
Last reply by Diseazd,
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