Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
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My passenger side window on my 240 won’t close properly, is the guide supposed to be straight? And is the plastic piece that holds the window broken? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by heyitsrama, -
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I have been anticipating putting this panel on for several years now. The delay has been mostly due to finishing work on other areas of the car. I ordered it from MSA. Some other vendors may stock the part but I already decided I would go with theirs. It came packaged nicely and has an anti-corrosive applied for storage and shipping. Decent grade of metal also. In the first picture the holes are cut in either side because I was going to just patch it but I began thinking it probably would not look as good as the entire panel put in nicely. The second picture is the panel freshly unboxed and just lying there. I needed to check to see where trimming of the old rotted piece …
Last reply by esmit208, -
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I have been going over the ideas of buying a new bumper or rebuilding mine. Rebuilding will have more character so I would like to go this route. However I have concerns that my front bumper may not be fixable. My grandpa hit something and it caused the the bumper to flex out. Any ideas of reshaping? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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I'm confused (again) and need a bit of help. Does anyone have a window (either side) door glass out that they can post a picture of? I need absolute confirmation of what year that glass came from. The two guide tracks on the window frame are unique between the early and late glass, and I can't for the life of me remember which is which. I need a picture of the side of the glass mounting frame that has the two short guide tracks where the regulator wheels ride. Either a early 240 or 76 or later 280 is best. Don't bother if its the later 77-78 glass, it's so unique I know what it looks like. Tanks!
Last reply by zKars, -
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Tried almost everything. Any suggestions? 12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler
Last reply by wil84911, -
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Hey guys, so I’m planning on painting my 240z, I want to put it’s original paint colour on it (113 Green I think) it’s a 1972 with Tan interior, where can I procure the paint, can’t seem to find it online. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
Last reply by gogriz91, -
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I had the bumpers and bumper guards for my '71 Series 2 chromed, and everything looks nice and shiny. Ordered the front and rear rubber caps, and everything fits, except the rubber on the rear guards. My rear bumper guards have three mounting holes for the rubber; the caps Z-Car Source sent me have four studs each. I called them and all they were able to tell me was that four-stud is all they have or can get. I went on MSA's site and their part photo clearly shows four-stud. Can anyone tell me, do I have the wrong bumper guards? Anyone know where I can get a pair of good rubbers? Is drilling new holes in my chrome the best option? Thanks, as always
Last reply by Richard McDonel, -
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Do the seat supports have to be removed in order to replace the floor pans and frame rails...?
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Hey guys I'm getting ready to start in on patching up my 240, im new to the tunes bashing scene and don't know alot about weld through primers. Is this something I basically want to use on any and all sheet metal in which I won't be able to treat later on or for any welds wherr it's a spot weld style repair or fixing small pours holes with a patch piece? What are some good brands and are there any tricks aside from the usual prep pre painting. Thanks in advance. Also, what is a general good primer or sealer to use when i open a channel up like the rockers or the upper air horn frame part and need to cost the inside before sealing it up. Sent from my SM-N950W usin…
Last reply by Turn & Burn, -
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Thanks to Sean Dezart for three of the images I have posted up here. I am trying to find out the differences between S30 headlamp buckets, so that I can identify part numbers 63116-N4600 (LH) and 63115-N4600 (RH), which are correct for my late 1977 UK-model 260Z coupe. On my R-Drive fiche, these part numbers are correct for European S30 models from 0/76 on. I do know that the black headlamp bucket in the image below is part number 63116-N4700 (LH), with the corresponding right hand side, part number, 63115-N4700. These (N4700 units) are correct for a 8/76 on 280Z, and have a captive nut (ringed in red in the image) to the second hole back from the front. I canno…
Last reply by jerz, -
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Any way to treat spots like these or leave em? 12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler
Last reply by wil84911, -
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I've been working at getting my 240Z ready for paint. I have stripped the tar mats off the passenger area floors and trans tunnel. The question is should I also strip the rear area, the reason I'm asking is as you can see in the photo's there are no signs of rust in the hatch area. The rest of the car has only minor rust. Two small spots of rust in the driver's floor, one about the size of a quarter and the other area of pinholes about the size of a dollar bill. The dog legs on both sides need work, the rear corners of the front fenders have been replaced already. I'm tempted to strip it but seems like a lot of extra work that may not be needed.
Last reply by jwtaylor,
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Wilbur
