Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,653 topics in this forum
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- 6 followers
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As I posted in my build/project thread, I recently discovered some rust on the floor of my 280Z 2+2 when I lifted the carpets. The damage went previously unnoticed because the exterior frame and panels are undercoated. The worst of it is on the driver side, where there is a hole large enough that I can poke my finger through in between the foot rest and clutch pedal. There is also a long perforation and signs of deterioration running fore to aft in the approximate location of the frame rail, and a pencil sized hole just in front of the seat rail. It is hard to determine the damage from under the car because it is undercoated. The passenger side looks like it was repa…
Last reply by Paulytunes, -
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- 4 followers
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Hey guys, any good source to get few D washers for fenders? I ordered them through McMaster and it is back ordered like hell 18-19 weeks!!! meaning you never get them. Worst case I have to cut few myself (probably should have done it 2 weeks ago instead of waiting!!!).
Last reply by MH77280Z, -
- 4 followers
- 11 replies
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Guys this is after I had installed the main door seal. I can probably live with it. But seems like the lower edge is aligned and not the top. How does your fitment looks? Can this be fixed?
Last reply by Richie G, -
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Founds these on the web and had to angle them with a grinder. I had two missing. Thought someone might need them so sharing: https://yheng-hardware.en.made-in-china.com/product/pwJtVaxLVKkr/China-Stainless-Steel-M6-M8-M10-DIN186-T-Head-Bolt-T-Bolt.html
Last reply by MH77280Z, -
- 2 followers
- 13 replies
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Guys, this is the only rust area i have, the cowl. I am thinking of blasting it as the wire brush is not good enough. This is heavy rust but still no pitting like damage. Top is ok, Issue is how much i can blast on the lower area. Also i think the passenger side has air passage into the blower motor i believe? my blower motor and air heating works fine. I would assume all the media will just get into the blower motor and through that inn the ducts? How should i prevent that? or just seal that side and do it with hand, blast the center and driver side only?
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 740 views
Hello, I am currently in the process of disassembling my early, 12/73, 260Z and I have run into a concern I want to understand or correct before I remove the hood. Currently, after pulling the hood latch from inside the car I am then required to use a stiff plastic squeegee to pop the hood open. I place the squeegee between the cowl and the hood and apply what I consider to be a large amount of force to get the hood to pop up. Once that happens I then need to squeeze the male hood latch to its full extent and snatch up on the hood. I have adjusted both latches to their full amount of travel to release the pressure and at this point if I adjust the hood forward th…
Last reply by kickstand80, -
- 7 followers
- 69 replies
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I started dealing with the body seals today. I removed the rear roof trim to look at the hinge seals, and from what I can see, if those leak it will run down the 1/4's into the body sides. Can't see how it would run into the rear floor area I have 4 pieces that go with the hatch opening, but I only know where the main seal fits. Mine doesn't have any other seals around the hatch opening . Anyone have pics of their hatch with the "upper outer" and "lower side" seals in place? I got both door seals in. Doors are a bitch to close / open now. I moved the latches slightly outward, just to reduce the load on the release mechanisms Driver'…
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
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- 6 replies
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Here is my official post demonstrating on video, how to easily remove your drip rail trim with, wait for it, a guaranteed of no damage or bending or warping or anything unpleasant. It is simple, direct, uses common tools and so far has been fool proof for me. Note that this was originally used on a 510’s drip rail trim which is virtually impossible to remove without damage. I have to give credit where due, I googled it and found a guy doing it to a classic Chevy something or other. Looked brutal, but in actuality it is not. You need two tools. A hammer, and a “thing’ with a blunt straight tip, no more than one inch long. Should be at least 1/2 or 3/4” to s…
Last reply by Patcon, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 744 views
Anyone have input or suggestions on the seal that runs along the outer edge of the inner fender support panel? I'm ready to reinstall my inner fender supports, whatever was present from the factory had turned to powder when I pulled them for the car restoration. Late '70 build date.
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 3 followers
- 14 replies
- 1.4k views
I have two spots on the drivers side floor pan that have rusted thru (I stuck a pencil thru each of them). Am wondering about the best fix approach since body work is definitely not my strong suit. These holes definitely do not require a full floor pan replacement IMHO. Will try to show in accompanying pics.
Last reply by dutchzcarguy, -
- 4 followers
- 25 replies
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I've been working on a few things lately and recently pulled and repainted the tail light panel. Got the paint from California Datsun which supposedly is the closest to original but I'm wondering about the glossiness. The color seems right to me, but its awfully glossy. Was it this glossy when new? I could have done a better job honestly but many of the small ripples you may see didn't seem to show up until the gloss shined in the light. If this paint was matt or flat may not even notice them but with all this shine you can see even hairline imperfections. Debating if I pull it and try again once I get through more important things.
Last reply by HusseinHolland, -
- 2 followers
- 9 replies
- 1.8k views
Had a few hours after work, so I focused on fitting the Skillet grille & the front bumper & brackets, after I replaced the 3 pedal pads Brackets in first, then test fit bumper With the bracket alignment figured out, I worked on the Skillet grille. 4 brackets are loosely fitted to the grille prior to mounting. I bought the full grille, not the bumper version, as that version has large cutouts on either side. I cut narrow slots to allow the bumper brackets to pass through Then I put the bumper on before I ran out of light. The fit is really nice. 4 M10 studs secured through the brackets…
Last reply by HusseinHolland,
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