Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,654 topics in this forum
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We are doing a project with z and my biggest concern is that in Estonia we have these kind of cars only four. So that means that i cant get the full advice like I would need. We have done body work and welded. We should be ready in the middle of march. Every car has a manual what is fully made for the specific car. Like what kind of layers are used. The same is for example with porche. So I would like some advice what would those four layers be? Would someone give the right information about it.
Last reply by sisask, -
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My Plastic inner fender's are shot beyond repair. You touch them and they crack, I didn't know plastic could get this brittle. I saw this set on ebay, asked the seller if they were for a 280 because that's not what mine look like. He responded "You must have a 280zx, not a 280z". All right dude, you're right, I don't know what year my freaking car is. I must have been wrong all these years. I was simply stating that these aren't like mine and wonder what years they fit. So maybe someone can clarify these inner fenders to me that our on ebay. Here's the link to the ebay ad. Here's a picture of what mine look like. (Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.)
Last reply by Cypers lex, -
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I am painting my Urethane air dam soon to color match my silver Z. I have everything I need except the actual paint itself. I know you want to use a flexible paint or add a flex agent to your paint so that when the urethane flexes, the paint doesn't crack. I don't really have access to compressed air or a sprayer. I was hoping to do everything from spray cans. If I do that though, I can't mix a flex agent beforehand. My questions: Anyone know of a automotive-quality silver spray paint that is flexible? (I couldn't find in my searches) Do I have to pre-mix color match paint and flex agent before spraying? Or can I do something like "spray flex agent …
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Hey gang, just ordered and now installed a complete set of Precision weatherstrip on a 71 S30 purchased from MSA (the weatherstrip, not the car, sorry...) The door weatherstrip was the big surprise. They seem to have gotten it right finally, the doors close exactly the same as they did with the old stock weatherstrip. No slam, no protruding doors, no drama. Just a decent fit. The bulb size is equivalent to the Kia weather strip, in fact, the precision strip is a U, not a closed circle like the Kia strip, so is more flexible, and more like the stock cross section. Might have to go back to ordering this stuff instead of the KIA part again.
Last reply by duffymahoney, -
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I am trying to remove front bumper and valance on my 1978 280z to make way for a new air dam. I am stuck removing the valance. I got all of the obvious bolts out, but there are 2 issues: The side fender and valance appear to be "fused" together? The last few bolts have some kind of gunk/material that is nearly hard as rock stuck on them and I can't get to the bolts. I thought the valance was 3 pieces. It looks like where the middle and side piece attach, there is a ton of gunk around the bolt that holds them together. WTF is this stuff? 2nd pic is zoomed in on area of first pic: Secondly, why do the fender and valance appear to be f…
Last reply by AlbatrossCafe, -
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Good evening All, A question and a thought First the question. I am installing new inner and outer seals on my 240Z quarter windows. I got the glass into the new inner seal, using a sealant as Humble in the How to Restore book recommends, but no way could I get the metal frame to reach around it. With great effort, I was at least 1/4 - probably more - short of getting the screw holes on the front part of the frame to reach those on the main piece. Thinking that perhaps the glass was binding in the rubber, I cleaned out the sealant and replaced it with light-weight grease. I still can't squeeze the two frame components together. I honest can't recall wh…
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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I have seen that people put some kind of bracing behind their urethane air dams on their cars so that they don't flex at high speeds, often for pretty cheap. Anyone have any pics of what this looks like? I am not sure how to start or where to attach it to. I could figure it out from a pic of the setup.
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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Hey, sorry but i am on a tablet so i keep myself short for now.....what is the eggshell yellow like Color of the Underbody of a 76' 280z.....cannot find it anywhere and the chassis is too bis to bring it to a Color scanner..thanks!
Last reply by Matthew Abate, -
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I have an old car that has surface rust on the battery tray area but the sheet metal in this area is very solid. I am in the process of stripping the car to the shell. A body shop will be media blasting the entire shell. Does blasting remove the acid from the sheet metal or should I rinse the area with something to reduce the PH? Am I over thinking this? Thanks
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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does anybody know of a source for the rubber boot that go in the trunk deck hinge slot I am also looking for a solution for holding the bottom of the tail light surrounds in I managed to lose the brackets and clips thanks.
Last reply by zbert1, -
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Stripping the undercoating and I found this on the inner wheel well in the rear. Was this area brazed from the factory, or does it look like the inner or outer skins where replaced?
Last reply by sweatybetty, -
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I'm fortunate to have two driver's door window-lift mechanisms. The sad part is that each is missing a piece. One is missing the coiled spring, and the other is missing one of the little plastic idler wheels. A parts swap is logical, but I am unsure as to how to remove either one. As for the spring, has anyone removed that? How much tension is it under, and how far will it unwind if removed? Is there a tool for re-installing? With the idler wheel (I'm sure I'm using the wrong name, but if you've had one of these apart, you'll know what I'm talking about), can anyone suggest some way of removing it without destroying? Many thanks
Last reply by Namerow,
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Terrapin Z
