Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,654 topics in this forum
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Saw a C.F. bumper at MSA. Doesn't fit '73's. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02n02/50-1752 They say you can swap 71-72 bumper brackets that fit the bumper but they need modification, without explaining the modification except to say cutting and bending is required. I have some experience with fiberglass and have some carbon fiber cloth so wonder if I could make a CF mounting plate on the CF bumper and use the '73 brackets instead of buying and modding 70-72 bumper brackets. Feel like I brought a spoon to a fork fight.
Last reply by Stanley, -
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- 7 followers
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I've started to run out of small projects on my car and am left with two big ones: the motor, and body/paint. Since I'm in CA and subject to the smog laws, and the engine's reliable and strong enough to still be fun, I figure that can wait, so I've come up with the following plan to get the car looking better. I'm hoping the folks here with more experience can tell me just how bad of an idea this all is, and what I should do differently. What I've got to work with: It's not good, but it could be worse. The car's had at least one bad respray, possibly more. The body work I can see that has been done is pretty terrible, and there's small dents on many panels t…
Last reply by esmit208, -
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Gentlemen I finally got the time and gumption to attack that right rear wheel well. What began as a bubble under the paint mushroomed into a rather large cancered area after a few moments of sweeping with the sandblaster. This area has been troubling me and I needed several months of study and thought to figure out my approach. The contours of this particular area make it quite a challenge to replicate satisfactorily. Not sure if I needed to cut the inner wheel well I began with the outer skin. Using a rotary cut off tool the outer skin was removed only to expose a rather large rusted area on the inner well also. Spots like this that are not in plain site are part of the …
Last reply by esmit208, -
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Successfully removed my '72 240Z windshield this afternoon! I saw several horror stories and videos of them cracking - but thanks to @gnosez for the advice! I did not have stainless trim to remove, but that is the first step. This also assumes you do not want to retain the rubber seal. Mine was shot so not worth saving. Tools you need: 1. Straight edge razor tool (not a box cutter) 2. Your two hands. 3. Blanket From the outside of the vehicle, I started on the driver side upper corner and with a straight razor blade (not a box cutter rather a tool that exposes the entire edge of the blade) began gently cutting the rubber seal away until the edge o…
Last reply by esmit208, -
- 4 followers
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I have a few questions that I'm hoping some of our CZCC veterans can answer: Door Panels: The parts manual shows a change made to the Door Panel Assemblies (lhs and rhs) starting in 71-10. Can anyone comment on the design change(s) made? (Note that the upper/lower Hinges are not considered to be part of the Door Panel Assemblies) Door Hinges: The parts manual shows a change made, starting in 72-07. Oddly, though, the change is noted only for the upper hinges. The lower hinges are shown as staying unchanged. This seems odd, because I believe that the design change included adding a revised travel limiter link with a detent, so that the doors would …
Last reply by Namerow, -
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I have to get my 77 inspected by the state annually, and whenever it goes up on the lift, the underside takes some damage. It's not all crushed in bad like many Z's out there (yet), but I would really like to prevent future damage if I can. Even the FSM indicates the use of the front frame rails on the floors as the "proper" lift point, but they clearly are not up to the task. They simply cannot take the load. So is there a different support option that is stronger than the frame rails? Is there a tested modification that can be made to prevent future damage? Is there some sort of option or product that can be installed to provide better or stronger lift points?…
Last reply by Captain Obvious, -
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Howdy, It was raining so hard earlier I woke up and was thinking about the Z parked outside. I wanted to verify if the door seal was holding up, but it looks like the new spot for the water to enter through it on 3 corners of the windshield. That can’t be happening, it’s going to have to get sealed up. My heart skipped a beat when looking at OEM seal costs, $3–4-500. Does anyone have pictures of the “third party” options? So far I see that precision makes some, and so does vintage rubber. I like the look of the chrome in the channel, wanted to keep it. Does anyone have pictures of the seal close up? I attempted to search, but can’t locate images. …
Last reply by Dave WM, -
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So there was a discussion recently here. About non-defrost glass as being fitted to early 240z's delivered in the US (maybe 1969 dated cars?) but interestingly Nissan gave all HS30's delivered to Australia no defrost options (or it was an option but I've not seen any 240z's in Australia with this glass) up until the 1974 260z which didn't get the sexy vertical defrost glass, instead they got the horizontal lined glass. Anyway this was tough to photograph in the dark of a garage but this is the glass out of HS30 00150 a 1970 delivered HS30. As you can see it has the stamp M-214. The early US cars with clear glass (and no defrost) have the code M-214 and late…
Last reply by 240znz, -
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Hi, i recently purchased my first Z car - 280z, which lived all its life in CA. The underside looks really dry and good. Unfortunately, i live in Chicago... i teared whole suspension down for rebuild and now would be a good time to do something to the underside to protect it from rust. Old undercoating is chipping and pealing away... Sandblasting would be best, but not an option at this point. Any recommendations would be appreciated! Attaching few pics of a current situation...
Last reply by Z dreams, -
- 1 follower
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I have a chastain shadow rear louver for my 78 280z that's missing the hardware. I can't find anything on eBay, or aftermarket hardware. Does anyone know where/if they make any replacement parts. Also, I can't find installation instructions. Any suggestions???
Last reply by Tallboy, -
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Anybody know if I can get the glass replaced? Can they bend the metal back and insert a beveled mirror replacement? Thanks for any experiences, advice. Here's all I've found so far.
Last reply by siteunseen, -
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I have the “dealer option” Racing mirrors on my 240Z. The ball joint on the 44 year old driver side mirror body was getting loose and would not hold position while driving. It finally got so loose I was worried it might fall off if I hit a pot-hole. I removed the mirror, and discovered the hole in the mirror body had worn / enlarged to the point that I could easily pull the ball out of the mirror body! I tried a few “easy” fixes, but none really worked, and decided a better solution was required. So I fabricated a plate that fits over the posts inside the mirror, having a central hole smaller than the ball joint diameter. To get it over the…
Last reply by rossman,
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