Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
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Hi, could someone tell me the bolt size for the front fender to the body. It's a 10mm head and I think 6mm bolt. Fine threads?? I'm having a little trouble sourcing them. Any help is appreciated. My original hardware is pretty rusty and I'd rather replace it than get into tumbling and zinc plating them if I can help it.
Last reply by zject, -
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Hi guys, Im having some trouble deciding what to do with this situation. The pictures I have attached are of the inside of the A pillars LH and RH side. As you can see not much rust there Only minor surface rust, but this area is not easy to reach, so im down to two options: 1. Use light and penetrating oil as rust inhibitor with long slim hose - possible to clean the outside up if it runs. 2. Use the long slim hose with a spraypaint - not sure of how that would end up? I worry that the paint way will run on the the pretty yellow paint, which would be a shame. But ill definitly hav…
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Tear down continues slowly on my resurrection project on this 280Z 2+2 that had been left to sit for 19 years. The headlight buckets looked pretty decent-some surface rusting- until I removed them from the fenders and front side valances. The mounting lips where the valances attach on the headlight buckets are badly rotted. Surprised everything was still attached and in alignment. Any repair tips for when we begin to restore all the parts and pieces? Also found a few rust through spots on the front radiator support. Most of the support looks good except for the few rotted sections. I will get a better idea after all the rest of the parts are removed and have the shell di…
Last reply by ksechler, -
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could someone post a clear, semi close-up picture of the rear hatch seals and of the center taillight trim piece? i think im missing the center trim. thanks all sb
Last reply by sweatybetty, -
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I've Googled and read forum posts until my head has spun, and I still don't feel like I have a very good understanding of paint...nevermind all the contradicting advice from people with strong convictions My situation: I painted my gas tank with Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black, and had some bad experiences with it (lifting, poor durability) that necessitate repainting the tank. I'm also re-doing the interior and have some surface rust on the floor pans and rear deck that I want to address. I'm hoping there's a paint out there that'll work well enough for those applications, be reasonably priced, and be fairly easy both to spray (for the tank) and brush on (floo…
Last reply by newtonhubcap, -
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All: Thanks for taking the time to read this. I'm trying to figure out the sequencing for painting and assembling my project. My plan is to mostly reassemble my shell and check panel alignment, adjust as needed and then disassemble and paint all the edges and hidden areas (doors and window sills). Then reassemble, wet sand and paint the rest of the car. My thought process is to minimize the possibility of damage to the finish during reassembly and to make sure the fitment is right while I can still do something about it. Does this make sense? It's a lot more work. What do (did) you guys do with your projects? I'm a little curious how panel alignment in partic…
Last reply by Patcon, -
Hatch Repair 1 2
by ksechler- 2 followers
- 16 replies
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I'm stripping my rear hatch and have some rust issues to repair. There are a few holes that were under the window rubber. I'm not sure yet how I'm going to repair them. Cosmetics isn't too much of an issue since they're under the rubber. The options I batting around are: 1). Cut out the rust and weld in new metal. I'm a little concerned about my ability to effect a good repair since I'll have to fab the patch and the locations a little challenging. Also I will need to cut out enough metal that the repaired area won't all be under the rubber so I'll have to take care to blend everything and make it pretty. 2). Skip the patch and just try to build up metal with my …
Last reply by Patcon, -
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of this panel. does anyone know if these are available new? thanks all sb
Last reply by sweatybetty, -
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Craig's list Salem $10.00, an original aerosol can of Datsun #306 sterling silver. Seller says Datsun used to include them with the car in the early days? I can pick it up & ship it if anyone wants it.
Last reply by psdenno, -
Paint Selection 1 2
by gwri8- 6 followers
- 23 replies
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The body work is getting close to finished so I'm starting to look at paint for my 280. The original color code is 240 Racing Green (metal flake) and I will probably keep that color. I will not be the one painting. The question is, what type of paint should I choose? Base with a Clear coat or Urethane /Acrylic? I'm not sure which will look better with a metal flake paint and which will be the tougher of the two. It is not going on a show car, but it is not a daily driver either. I do drive it and people do look at it, you know what I mean? Anyone have an opinion on types of paint and why? I'm all ears (or maybe eyes since this is a post).
Last reply by pogden, -
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Before selling our power equipment business in PA and leaving the frigid mountain winters 5 years ago to enjoy SC, we had a MILLER MIG welder. I am not a licensed or certified welder by any means, but we did quite nice work with the MIG. We used the Argon gas with the best results. I do not need that big of a welder anymore to begin the resurrection process on our 78 Z. How good are the flux core units which are much less costly than the gas MIG units. Looking for some hands on feedback. I have never used a flux core MIG. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC
Last reply by Hypertek, -
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Can anyone offer advice on how to install ZG style flares. I don't favor the bolt on look, and since I will be painting the car I planned to blend them to the fender. I'm not sure how well that will work in the long run, though. I guess I'd rather go with the bolt on look than the cracked bondo look. Has anyone installed and successfully blended their flares, and can you make suggestions on how to do it right?
Last reply by Patcon,
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