Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,653 topics in this forum
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- 7 replies
- 2.3k views
My driver side door lock has been getting progressively worse at unlocking the door over the past 6 months, so I decided to try the "coat hanger elbow modification." About 1 in every 3 times I had to get in and unlock the door from the rear hatch. Seemed to happen mostly if it was colder outside vs warm. Cannot use the passenger side door for entry as the key lock was missing its elbow that connects to the door latch mechanism since I have had the car. If anyone had one for the passenger side, let me know. Removed the lock on the driver side door, removed the elbow, (which was barely moving with the key turning) carefully drilled the hole for the coat hanger wire, re-i…
Last reply by Hardway, -
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- 4 replies
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Hi, I try to put back my head light to the fender and I realize I lost my screw for putting headlight to fender. Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Head Lamp Based on there, it called SCREW-ADJUSTING. Part # 26022-01301. Does anyone know the size of screw? I don't want to pay $1 more for each screw. Thanks, tamo3
Last reply by 240260280z, -
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I'm doing the bodywork on my 260, finally got around to the rear. The lower valance panel has a factory hole on the left side, directly below the reverse light, app. 5" x 1 1/2" I'm curious what is the function of this hole? My 240 has no hole & in the dim recesses of my memory, it seems as if 280s had more than one. Also, I want to clean up the area behind the bumper & put 240 bumpers on it eventually, What is the best method of filling the recessed area, behind the bumper, that is dotted with welds & holes. Seal it up & weld a piece over it or fill it with a fiberglass product. I'm thinking layers of mat and cloth or stranded jelly. I'm open to any su…
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 4 replies
- 1.2k views
I'm having a tough time locating this panel. All the sources I've found are out of stock. MSA has them without the 240 bumper recess, which I'd prefer to have as I'm not all that skilled at bodywork. Anyone know a source or possibly have one laying around?
Last reply by mayitin, -
- 1 follower
- 18 replies
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Ran Across DatsunPartsLLC's eBay posting today for a rattle can of paint for restoring the 240z Tail Light shroud. Great, except that it's $30/can, plus another $12 for shipping. I can't seem to find much on the subject; does anyone know a good alternative for getting close to the original color that doesn't does $42 for a can of spraypaint? Thanks much, Bill Ref: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-OEM-Z-240Z-True-Taillight-Panel-Grey-NEW-Factory-Color-Paint-Can-/400290950344?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d33332cc8&vxp=mtr#ht_1162wt_1037
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 3 followers
- 11 replies
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Like any vintage car NOS parts usually carry a premium price and our cars are no exception. One thing that our cars seem to suffer from is emblem breakage either from age or damage when being removed for a paint job. When I bought my Z the Datsun script emblem on the hatch was missing but the small capture clips were still in the body with paint on them. My only guess is the old emblem did not fare well when it was removed. I actually have a NOS emblem sitting in my display case but with NOS emblems now at $60 and knowing I would eventually be painting the car in the future I did not want to install it on the car. However, I also did not want to look at the void and …
Last reply by siteunseen, -
- 18 replies
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When I removed the aftermarket mirrors the PO installed on my car three holes were left on each side of the car when I put a stock mirror back on the drivers side. Two workers at a local paint and body shop gave me different advice on how to fix the holes, what I would call the hard way and the easy way. The hard way is to weld over the holes and the easy way is to put body repair tape on behind the holes and bondo over them. The last time I welded over much larger holes the weld splatter damaged nearby paint a bit though the body shop has welder's paper they say will protect the paint. I plan on putting just enough bondo in the holes with a dab of paint on them to hi…
Last reply by socorob, -
- 4 replies
- 1k views
As I went to close the rear hatch the other day, I felt something give and then the ball joint on the bottom of the gas strut came out. On closer examination, the metal bracket attached to the C-pillar broke partially loose. Being away from home, I left the strut detached and closed the hatch. When I got home, I cannot figure just what failed and the manuals are no help. Is the bracket spot welded to the body? Can't tell without pulling the interior. It appears to still be attached somewhere inside. I'm having a problem trying to bend back into position. What is the proper repair procedure?
Last reply by djwarner, -
- 7 replies
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As one of the first steps in the restoration process of my '70 240z I'm trying to determine the full extent of my rust issue and I'm looking for opinions regarding floor tar mat removal. I plan to have "all" rust removed and have a complete paint job back to the original 918 Orange. I know that the safest method is to remove all of the tar mats but most of mine are in such good shape I am hoping that will not be necessary. I have started to remove the undercoating below the floors to identify rusty areas and found that rust in the floors is mainly in areas with damage and the undercoating had cracked or had loosened allowing moisture in. For a test I removed a small a…
Last reply by CanTechZ, -
- 11 replies
- 2.8k views
And sure enough it did, after a lot of washing and waxing. Meguairs #7 Show Car Glaze is great stuff. When I got it home, After beers and #7 yesterday,
Last reply by Oiluj, -
- 22 replies
- 6.7k views
Well, its my turn to get upset at these new weatherstrip replacements from MSA. The install went fine, everything fit perfectly. But when I go to shut the door, it has to be slammed in order for the lock to click. Even then, the actual rear of the door is pushed out a good .5 inch. I also notice that the rear of the door isn't even touching the weatherstrip. It seems that the front of the door (where the hinges are) is touching the weatherstripping and is soooo tight, that is isn't allowing the rear of the door to close correctly. I read on here from another thread "Door Slamming Issue Solved FINALLY" that I might need to shim the hinges. Will this resolve my proble…
Last reply by gnosez, -
- 8 replies
- 1.8k views
I jacked up the rear end for the first time and a bunch of water came out of the front drainage holes (picture of the area I'm talking about below). Seems kinda odd to me because it hasn't rained here in over a week. Makes me think something is plugged, but I'm not familiar enough with this car's (1978 280Z) body to know.
Last reply by EuroDat,
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