Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,653 topics in this forum
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Hi all - After seeing the %^(*#$% welding job that I paid 600.00 for, I've decided to replace most of the work that was done, and just replace the whole drivers floor. Before I buy retail, does anyone have one? Thanks!
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 14 replies
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So ill be painting this thing or at-least attempting to and i figure i should spice it up a bit:bunny:
Last reply by bpilati, -
- 5 replies
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Hi all. I am by no means a metal worker, so here goes. I paid a guy (its always "a guy") to weld up my floors, and he did a decent job, but didn't weld the horizontal seam in the footwell. Since it is much easier for me to rivet than to weld, is that sound thinking? I can waterproof the area without any problem. All help/opinions/insults are welcome. Thanks Curtis 72 240 3.2
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 5 replies
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1978 280z with 240z front bumper (from Black Dragon) i'm getting ready to do the body work at the rear to clean up all the holes/mounting points from removing the rear bumper. just wondering if anyone has a source for a 240 replacement body panel or even a blank one that i could just weld in and reduce the amount of filler/patching. i'd rather have new metal than a bunch of patches and filler back there... any ideas?
Last reply by rossiz, -
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my drivers side door had an annoying, loud click at the hinge - inspection revealed that the roller bushing was very worn with deep ruts. looks like at some point the roller froze and scraped against the hinge detents, causing little furrows that then increased over time. was inspired by another post about re-building door hinges and decided to take the plunge and pull off the door to fix it. taking off the door is simple, but most definitely a two-person job. 6 bolts and its off. then i took the lower hinge off the car, put it in my vice and tapped out the roller pin. the previous post about hinge re-building had a replacement part number from mcmaster-carr and they w…
Last reply by rossiz, -
- 2 replies
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Hi, I'm about to install rear deck lid weatherstrip that I purchased from MSA. There are top part and side parts of the weatherstrips for the lid. I'm wondering the direction of the installation is right or wrong. Also, should I cut the top seal part of the weatherstrip or side seal parts of the weatherstrip to fit the lid? Thanks for your advice in advance. tamo3
Last reply by tamo3, -
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Has anyone used these louvers on the S30? Interested in experiences (good & bad) Willpak 10532 Aluminum Rear Window Louver | eBay
Last reply by Jarvo2, -
- 8 replies
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I bought a hood to use as an art project on my car. I should explain that my car has a hood in decent shape already so this is an extra hood. My plan is to straighten and prep the art project hood for painting with blackboard paint with the idea that people can draw on it with chalk at get togethers and events. I was thinking I would remove it from the car and set it up on a stand of some kind so kids can access it too. So the art hood has a pretty big dent and a much smaller dent on the front edge. Since the front edge of the hood skin has a reinforcing panel behind it, there is no access to bump the dents back out. I have access to a stud welder, but I am not su…
Last reply by GV Z Car, -
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I purchased this front spoiler today, and I was wondering if someone could give me more information on it. What I know is that it's a NOS piece, bought from a dealership that closed down in the late 70s. It had a tag that said "72-78 Z cars" (Not sure why 70-71 wouldn't work). I wasn't able to completely mount it up to the car because I have a BRE already attached. It does however, go all the way and touch the wheel wells. I'd love to know the history of it and what kind of value it has. Thanks, Chase
Last reply by 240zdave, -
- 7 replies
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280Z TO 240Z (FF & RR ) BUMPER CONVERSION BRACKETS: 124 for 4 pieces of metal that were bent and cut???!!! I couldn't even purchase just one pair for the front bumpers, he said must buy both. Anyone know of any other sources? Just found it quite ludicrous.
Last reply by nissanthanh, -
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I bought this from JEGS for $167, Xenon #3125. Took about 4 hours to put it on, I had already removed the front bumper and half of a finger nail a couple of weeks ago. The instructions were as clear as mud so I thought I might make it simple for the 9/74 to '78 one. The instructions say remove the body pan? You only need to remove the 2 small 1/4 panels under the headlight buckets. If you leave the middle skid pan it gives it something to rest on. Though it's not secure and could vibrate I'll end up putting a bolt or screw or something when I drive it again. Squirt the bolts and nuts a day before you start. I used the bottom of the turn signals as a referenc…
Last reply by EuroDat, -
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I am in the process of purchasing all the rubber seals i will need to restore my 1972 240z. I want good quality seals that at the moment of being installed fit tight to the doors, Windows, Hood, and trunk. Is there any high quality kit recommended that can comply with this requirement? I dont want to start the paint procedure without having absolutely all the seals required for my restoration process. Which supplier should i contact? when I mean absolutely all the rubber seals it includes the ones that go under the tail lights.
Last reply by jfa.series1,
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