Body & Paint
Discussions about bodywork and painting a Zcar.
3,653 topics in this forum
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- 6 replies
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Morning folks, I'm trying to decide how to move forward on some battery tray rust repairs, and I was hoping for some feedback from those who have gone through this before. First, the pics: Of course the, first (and biggest) question is "do I need to cut it out". I'm not a rust expert, but I'm inclined to go with "yes, cut it out". If I'm going to go ahead and do that, I'd really like to flatten out the bottom of the battery tray area and enlarge it a little so I can bolt in an aluminum battery tray and set the battery down in a little further, but I'm not sure how much space I have available to enlarge the battery tray area. How close to the inner fender and tire…
Last reply by Dershum, -
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- 11 replies
- 3.4k views
Take a look at the pics of this car. I have been trying to match paint for some touch up. I was convinced it was Nissan 115 code, but that color is darker then whats on the car. The paint code by year should be 903, but 903 is much darker. The story goes, that when the car went to the painter, they guessed the code by looking at a faded code sticker on the radiator core. The numbers are so faded that they could have put 305 color on this car. Anyway, if you think your blue paint is this color, please chime in. Like I said, this color is several shades lighter than the 903.
Last reply by Stanley, -
Problem: The receiver plate inside my D/S door jamb has stripped bolt holes for the bottom 2 bolts. Since I can't find any way of removing the piece to replace it or repair it, I'm wondering if I can *carefully* fill those holes with something like JB weld and re-drill and -tap them. Does anybody have a better idea? -Ken P.
Last reply by BadDog, -
- 4 replies
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After doing some searches and reading posts, I cannot figure out where the 1972 sport-style door mirrors should be located. I got a pair of the bullet-shaped optional mirrors that are ready to install, but my door has several holes, some of which have been filled on the passenger side. The mirrors I took off the car are a plastic aftermarket set. The car will be getting bodywork and paint here pretty soon, but I don't want to wait for that. I have not taken off the door panel yet, so maybe there is a clue to the mirror placement on the inside of the door, if I can even see it. Thanks for your advice on this!
Last reply by ggunder, -
- 34 replies
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Anyone have any info on the custom Pantera look a like Z rear lid ????
Last reply by lonetreesteve, -
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I think 240z can open hood wider then 280z. Maybe because of avoiding hitting fat bumper, 280z cannot open hood wider. I'm not sure the design of the hinge is different from 240z and 280z. Lots of people remove fat bumper and here is a tip for opening wider. Just remove one bolt on each side of hinge. You can open hood 90 degree now:D This tip is from kazuhix's blog http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/430350/blog/29671163/
Last reply by tamo3, -
- 9 replies
- 2k views
I have not posted here for awhile. I have been building a budget endurance racer (Chumpcar). I put some color on her yesterday, and thought I'd share a few pictures. It's certainly no show car, but it turned out pretty good.
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
- 9 replies
- 1.4k views
Hey guys, I have a set of fender mirrors I bought for my z, but now I am torn on whether to put them on or not. Sometimes I like the looks of them and sometimes I dont, plus I'm not sure how I feel about drilling into my fenders. What do you guys think?
Last reply by bryand2, -
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I'm assuming a paint code is a paint code but according to Zhome.com they describe the 901 paint code for 1970-71 as Silver gray (metallic), 1972 as Silver Metallic and 1973 as just Silver. Are there any differences in the shades of silver throughout the 240z model years? I'm assuming there is a difference between 901 and 306 Silver Metallic on the 260Z and 280Z but whats with the various descriptions for the 240z's? Thanks, Matt
Last reply by Carl Beck, -
- 12 replies
- 2.1k views
Hi all. Can someone please post a couple of pictures of the very tip of the nose on the hood to show how much of a defined point it comes to, and whether the point ends at a crease that then travels down the front lip of the hood? I hope this makes sense. Id like to see pictures of the very tip of the hood from the top, front, and underside to see how the metal was supposed to be folded over. My body shop is fixing a dimple at the tip of the hood and I want to make sure everything is bent back and creased properly. Thanks, Matt
Last reply by Diseazd, -
- 11 replies
- 3.2k views
There's no doubt that this is one of the hardest jobs to do on the Z. It's hard on the fingers, back and patience. The best advice on this site is removal of the glass and installing trim- on the seal and windshield-- off the car. I did do that on the rear hatch, and with decent success. I did nick the seal in two places, but I will take those results being I don't do this for a living. Another thing that might things easier is spending the money for the Nissan seals. One area you should go cheap on. Better coverage, better seal, probably tougher rubber too! Anyway, I decided not to pull the front windshield on the car, or altleast try it installed. First thing I did was…
Last reply by motorman7, -
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I know this has been discussed and the general consensus is that the quality isn't great, but will these replacement locks last for a while? Mine have the typical shaft wear and they no longer move the arm far enough to push the rod an unlock the door. Datsun 510 240Z 260z 280z 1600 Door Locks with Keys | eBay My locks are both shot and my options are to find better old ones, do the wire fix on mine, or replace them with new ebay ones. I have a few old ones that might be less worn that my current ones, but they don't work smoothly. Some oil might help, but I haven't tried yet. The wire fix doesn't look too hard, but how long does the fix last before something bends …
Last reply by Kurbycar32,
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