Triple Mikuni and Webers
Discussions around the triple Mikuni & Weber carb setups
73 topics in this forum
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I have triple Mikuni 44 on my 1973 Datsun 240z, I would like some recommendations for brand of electric fuel pump that works with these Mikuni carb. Thank you for any help! Ron
Last reply by yippi427, -
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- 4 followers
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I purchased my 240 Z about eight years ago, after it had been garage-stored since the 90s. The previous owner added these triple Mikuni Solex carbs after swapping in a L28 engine, but only drove the car about 700 miles before putting it in storage. I put less than 50 miles on them, before replacing them with some SU carbs from Z-Therapy. I'd like to sell these Mikunis, but I'm not sure where to start. I'm not trying to get every last dime out of them, but I do want a fair price for their value. (I'm not sure of the size, and will need to confirm.) I'm looking for any advice on what I should be able to get for them. I don't know if I should just set a price or put them up …
Last reply by Patcon, -
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I am trying to retain my mechanical fuel pump while also using triple Mikuni PHH44s, and ALSO utilize the return line. I’ve been reading that it would be advisable to use a fuel pressure regulator (and also a fuel cooler) but I have only been able to find FPRs that go before the carburetors in the fuel circuit. I can’t do this and keep the mechanical fuel pump do to space limitations (see here)and a lack of good mounting options. I have seen several mentions of putting the FPR after the carburetors, mostly in threads about keeping the return line. In order to do that I would need a back pressure regulator, but I haven’t found one that works with gasoline or is i…
Last reply by Matthew Abate, -
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I know a guy who knows a guy, these triple 45's belong to him. Been sitting on a shelf for 35 yrs, brand new, still in the original packing box, came with 2 intake manifolds, one is a TWM, the other is a shorty made by Mikuni, came with a heavy cloth heat shield, still in a sealed bag, good thing too considering it is probably full of Asbestos. You might see these show up on BaT at sometime in the future.
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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I'm helping a guy get his unfinished project on the road, on a bored out L24 is new set of triple Weber 40 DCOE 151, made in Spain. The choke tubes are 30mm, air corrector jets 170, pump jets 40, idle jets 60-F8, emulsion tube F11 and the main jets are 125 Although they only have a few minutes of running time on them they have had gas sitting in them for a few years I would think so had to do open covers and clean them out. With linkage disconnected I've adjusted the throttle stops to half a turn open, set the linkage to be identical for all 3, idle mixture screw to 1 full turn open. Ideally, I would like the engine to start up on the first turn of the ke…
Last reply by grannyknot, -
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good afternoon everyone, I am curious to know if anyone might know who would rebuild these or where I could find a rebuild kit for a Triple SK Racing Carb Setup? they've been sitting for years and i would assume they'd need a rebuild or cleaned up at a minimum.
Last reply by rosaaen89, -
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40 accel. F15 emulsion 45f6 idle 150 main 210 air corrector 55 spill jet 33 main venturi 3.5 aux venturi. Happiness.
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
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I am in a bit of a quandry. I have a set of Mikuni PHH 44 carbs on a Mikuni manifold AND a set of Weber 40 carbs on a Cannon manifold. Either set will need to be refurbished. I'm trying to decide which ones to put on my stroker motor. I'm not going to ever race the car but I do intend to drive it in a spirited manner every now and then. Years ago, I talked with John Coffey about this choice and he gave me his advice as a racer who spends hours near redline - which is something I shall very rarely, if ever, do. His advice was to use the 44s, but, then again, he was a racer. I know quite a few members have carbed strokers. So what have you guys experienced? …
Last reply by inline6, -
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- 16 replies
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I removed a high compression 280z engine which was probably in the low 200 HP range and transferred some of the parts. I replaced it with a stock 1972 240z L24 and the modifications are a ZX distributor, 6 into 2 header and triple Weber 45's from the engine I removed. My question is around the Webers. They were obviously set up for the hotter engine and I have bolted them onto the L24 and thought someone may have a "stock" configuration in respect to main jets, choke tubes, idle jet, air corrector jet etc. Current main jet is a 145. I have not had any experience with Webers but hope to be able to set this car up myself buying the correct parts.
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
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In refreshing my 40 DCOE carbs, I've found that one of them has the tip of the idle screw lodged in the orifice of one barrel. I've included pix of both barrels so you can see both the clogged one as well as the open one. Does anyone have a suggestion for how I might remove this broken tip without doing significant damage to the barrel? I'm thinking that after filling the screw hole with Kroil and letting it sit for a few days, heating the carb body with a propane torch will somewhat enlarge the orifice and perhaps facilitate removal. But how should I go about pushing that tip out?
Last reply by jitenshakun, -
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Hi, I think i have a air leak on the bottom of the cannon manifold flange. Would anyone know how thick the flange is at the bottom where it shares the same mounting point as the exhaust header?
Last reply by hatepotholez, -
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- 7 replies
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My 40 DCOE carbs do not have countersinking on the throttle shafts. Consequently. the tops of throttle plate holding screws stick out into the air flow, like little pill tablets. And, while I can readily get replacement screws, I'm wondering if changing to countersunk screws might be a good idea now that I have the carbs all disassembled. So, some questions: 1. Seeing as how I shall very rarely have the car at WOT and using a 6000 rpm limit, how much difference will my "tablet" screw tops make in the airflow compared to countersunk screws? 2. How hard is it to turn my current throttle shaft into one that would accept countersunk screws? Frankly, if I go this …
Last reply by Captain Obvious,
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