Replaced tacho with 240k

[260Zed]

Hey everyone,

Today I finished my tacho swap. For our U.S mates they can easily grab a 280Z electronic/trigger tacho and rid themselves of the inductive loop type, easy. Unfortunatley we dont have that option. So when my 260Z loop tacho started playing up (periodically working, bouncy etc) I didnt feel like finding/paying for on that could crap out just as easily. After hunting the yards I found that a 77 240k sedan had the similar tacho face, but most importantly the same gap/distance between rpm units.

When I got the cluster out I found it was a latter style pulse tacho. All set up on a circuit board. So I got the tacho for $30.

Anyways to the good bits, you have to remove the needle and face off the 240k tacho, switch the tacho guts upside down, fit original 240/260z face and needle. Thats all nice and easy. Then I found that it's a little longer than the original, which means it doesnt quite fit in the original case thing :stupid: . So I moved the circuitry from the back of the tacho to fit on top of the tacho's guts. Fits in sweet then. Screw holes and all. Then wire up your new feed and hey presto!

So now I've got a original looking tacho with newer guts. Works great now, seems much smoother as well.

Just an option if anyone wants to replace theirs with a more modern design. Gimme a yell if I missed anything...

Luke

[Fentin_Fury]

Just in case anyone feels like messing with the original 240Z tach I have taken a number apart and replaced the old components with new. This does an excellent job of removing the "bounce" and erratic behaviour.

Components to replace that I consider a must are the old capacitors and transistors. The capacitors are easily cross referenced but it took some time to find replacement transistors as the factory ones did not show up in any listing - must have been a Nissan spec unit. An even more critical replacement is the old style variable resistor. This unit is old style even for '69 and I suspect is the major cause of these tachs failures. I moved the resistor outside of the tach with a couple of long leads. This allows you to adjust the tach - set it to the correct RPM - without opening up or removing the tach from the dash.

[Zedrally]

Could you advise all members the Transistor type numbers & other obscure values for components that you used on this?