If the strut bar has rod ends, then they should be adjustable. Rod ends do something else for you too. Rigidly mounted strut bars will flex from bending forces. Rod ends prevent the bending forces from being applied to the strut bar, yet allow the strut bar to do it job.

Yes, the strut bar is adjustable on both ends. It does this by screwing in or out on a threaded bolt, with a nut to lock it in place. I still haven't modified mine, just checked it for fit and looks like it will work just fine. Hope this helps. Gary

Thanks for all the info. Looks like I'll putting in an order for one in the next few weeks. But I have some other stuff to sell first...

so this can only be done on the front i assume because i dont see anything for the rear. I guess if i can find somtin about the rite length i can do the rear also. but i guess know one knows. Does anyone know?

I don't know where this idea came from, but on my 78 it doesn't work. A friend down the street has a couple of Hon-duhs and had one of these bars for a 93 Civic laying in the corner. I took it home, drilled the holes and my hood won't close. My opinion:

Waste money trying to make something fit that wasn't designed for you car or buy the right part. You make the call! Fortunately, this guy owed me on for getting his car running last weekend!

I'm surprised somebody else didn't mention this already-

BEFORE you even start measuring your car for a brace or bar, you need to make SURE your chassis is in albsolutely PERFECT ALIGHMENT! Otherwise, you'll be locking it into whatever ****-eyed geometery it's in. That's what the strut bar's job is, but NOT what you want to do with it. You want to lock the (properly aligned) chassis so it doesn't change/move when you turn.

BTW- .02 cents is $0.0002!

A front and rear strut bar keeps the vehicle in a "square" (for lack of a better word). Thus keeping body roll down to the very minimum. Of course beefier struts and springs can only enhance the purpose of the strut bar, as far as stability.

Vicky

I guess I should say 2 cents, right?

Originally posted by TomoHawk

I'm surprised somebody else didn't mention this already-

BEFORE you even start measuring your car for a brace or bar, you need to make SURE your chassis is in albsolutely PERFECT ALIGHMENT! Otherwise, you'll be locking it into whatever ****-eyed geometery it's in. That's what the strut bar's job is, but NOT what you want to do with it. You want to lock the (properly aligned) chassis so it doesn't change/move when you turn./QUOTE]

YOU mentioned it earlier in this thread. My car was recently aligned. 4 wheel, I do it once a year. I was just curious (and skeptical) about this Honda strut tower thing and when I saw an opportunity to try it for free, I went for it. Even if it would have worked it just seemed too flimsy for a Z. I question its necessity on a street car anyway.

Things in your vehicle will stay "square" with a strut bar installed ONLY if the vehicle is "square" to begin with. You can't "square" things using the strut bar- they aren't meant to correct the vehicle's geometry. You'd need an alignment machine, or to replace bad struts or whatever was bent to fix things.

I think that the weight difference between a hondu (about 2,000 lbs) and a Z-car ( about 3,000 lbs) would make a difference in how the Hondu strut bar works on either car. The Hondu bodies might even be a little stiffer than a Z ( no offense) because it has a modern design and materials, which I would assume to be lighter and stronger.

Originally posted by TomoHawk

Things in your vehicle will stay "square" with a strut bar installed ONLY if the vehicle is "square" to begin with. You can't "square" things using the strut bar- they aren't meant to correct the vehicle's geometry. You'd need an alignment machine, or to replace bad struts or whatever was bent to fix things.

When I mentioned "square", I was reffering to the handling of the car. The strut bar can reduce frame twisting. I do, however, understand what you are talking about.

Vicky

Originally posted by TomoHawk

I think that the weight difference between a hondu (about 2,000 lbs) and a Z-car ( about 3,000 lbs) would make a difference in how the Hondu strut bar works on either car. ..............

Many of us have 240Z's which weigh less than 2500 lbs. Not sure where you are getting the weight of the Honda (NOT doubting you either!) but the difference wouldn't be as great as you mentioned., and any extra chassis stiffness will help.

Now, IF the hood will close on a 240Z is another matter. (I hope it will)

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Regarding someone else's statement about whether it is "needed" on a street car depends on how one drives their own car.

"Granny" doesn't even need the full power and handling built into the car from the factory, but "Mr. Autocross / Streetracer" needs/wants all the power and the chassis as stiff as he can get it.

Different strokes for different folks!