I couldn't tell by the pictures either. What does the driver's side look like? Any chance that side is toed out?

I looked at all the pictures and can't see anything obvious. It is possible that the stub sticking forward from the a-arm at the inner pivot could be bent. You could support the front of diffy and drop the front cross member and the two rear clam shells. Both a-rms will be free at inner pivot. Then slide off bushings and check that "stubs" are in line with rest of a-arm tube. You could replace the bushings at that point also.

Also appears that drop piece from frame to rear cross member is slightly crooked. Could just be optical illusion or sign that rear end took a shot from the left rear and has been moved to the right. In that case I'd fall back to my previos suggestion.

Have you spun the wheel to rule out that it has been sprung?

  Quote

Originally posted by panchovisa

Also appears that drop piece from frame to rear cross member is slightly crooked. Could just be optical illusion or sign that rear end took a shot from the left rear and has been moved to the right.

I kind of thought the same thing that the rear transverse link looked a little off, that's why I asked about the drivers side toe.

Drivers rear tire looks fine to me(granted I dont know what fine is because this is the only z rear end ive looked at), dont think it took a shot from the left, there is some damage on the right side behind the fender. The only real reason I started looking at this was because my friend said that my tire was shaking bad when I was driving, we'll see if a shock will help at all but I still believe there is an allignment issue. Thanks for the suggestions.

http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=23-4137&Category_Code=PSDC06C

Thats what I need, correct?

And that is the inner control arm bushing, correct?

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Originally posted by panchovisa

Have you spun the wheel to rule out that it has been sprung?

Explain, not understanding.

With the wheel mounted on the car you can rotate the wheel (up on jack stands) and see if the rim (out at the bead seat) moves inward and outward. Use a pencil taped to a chair leg for reference point. The pencil lead will wear away from the "high" spot and you can use a feeler gage to measure the gap at "low" spot. Excessive (depending on quality of wheel, the total lateral runout should be less than 1/32") lateral runout would indicate the wheel rim (bead seat) has been "sprung" in relation to the wheel hub mounting face. This would make the wheel look like it "shimmies" while you drive. Would also make wheel appear to have (toe in, less toe in, no toe, toe out, etc) as the tire is rotated. Check a couple of your wheels to get a reference on the lateral run out of a good wheel.

Fixing a sprung wheel is a job for experts.

By "took a shot from the left" I didn't mean collision, I mean't suspension took a hit from curb, pothole, etc. There may bee no visible dmage to see. Maybe tire scuffed or wheel ding at most.

Ya, the rear control arm bushing would be the non-adjustable type. If you wanted adjustable maybe someone else knows where to find them.

Pusher,

Wheel shaking meaning what? Bouncing or wobbling?

Take that tire to the local tire store and have em spin it on a balancing machine or just spin the tire manually to determine if the wheel is bent. If it's not bent,and your seeing a wobble while driving,yoou may have bent or broken stub axle...Dangerous......Hopefully not

david

Yes, I want the adjustable ones... couldnt really find those on zcarparts.com, if anyone can link me to some id appreciate it. My friend said it wobbled... Now instead of all this wheel test stuff can I just put my spare on and see how it looks? A sprung wheel is only the wheel right? It doesnt mean the hub or anything is screwed up? Thanks for the replies.

A sprung wheel is just the wheel. A bent stub axel is something else.

Most spare tires on used cars are in the trunk (and not on the car)for a reason. Swap the front and rear right side tires. Go for a ride, if wheel was sprung you feel it in the steering. A friend could follow to see if wobble/bounce/whatever is gone from rear wheel.

To check for bent stub axel flange face (don't believe you could bend the round part of axel withount damage to axel housing/bearings) you would need a magnetic base indicator holder, a lever style indicator (+/- .015"), and would need to run nuts down wheel studs to hold brake drum tight to stub axel. I would imagine that total indicator movement greater than .008" at 6" diameter would be questionable.

Rotated some tires around and it still looks to have tow in, ill be installing a shock today and afterwards ill have a friend see if it is still wobbling. Anyone know where I can located some adjustable inner control arm bushings? I'm kinda confused how a bushing could be adjustable.

I believe this is what the guys have been talking about:

http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=23-4171&Category_Code=PSDC07A

The bushing is off-center, and thus as you turn it, it moves the control arm attachment point around a little.

Note: I've never used one.