Can anyone varify that is the part I need?

When replacing my shock I got some pics of the bushing, and compared it to the other side, the length of the rubber on the drivers side was shorter and fit under the brace holding it. This one was longer, but didnt really look old. What do the large bolts do? Messed with them for a min trying to see if I could compact the bushing more to the size of the other one but the bolt wouldnt budge.

Thanks

Pusher, looks like the previous owner put bushings in wrong place.

The bushing at the back inner pivot is about 3/8" shorter than the front inner pivot.

Looks like he got them reversed. The big bolt compresses the bushing until it is stopped by the steel inner sleeve. This swells the bushing (stock rubber) and brings bushing shoulders tighter against the pivot brackets.

I would guess that now you've found most if not all the cause of toe-in problem. Might as well check out the other bushings also, he may have 3 long/ 1 short bushings instead of 2 long/ 2short.

Yea, after measuring the bushings my friend found out that the 2 short ones were on the drivers side and the 2 long ones were on the passenger side. Hopefully fixing this will solve the problem, we have the bushing all together but are having trouble lining up bolt holes and catching thread on some of the brackets. Thanks.

Pusher,

Thanks for letting everybody who has invested time on this thread know what you have found. Many times I see people throw a problem out to the group to help solve and then they never let people know the result. I think that is kind of rude and doesn't help other people that may (or will) have similar questions.

Try backing out the big bolts in each end of inner a-arm, that will relax the bushing (and spread the shoulders) until you get the bolts back into cross members.

Thanks again for the idea, got it all lined up and bolted in, at first I was dissapointed because I still saw some tow in(more than the other side) dunno if it was just me or if their is still some left. But after a test drive it felt insanely better. Ill have to check how it does at highway speeds later. Thanks for the help guys.

Rides better, but still rocking some toe in on the rear passenger. Can anyone confirm that the rear camber kit should allow me to adjust the toe on the back and eliminate the remaining toe in? Thanks.

Yes, the adjustable control arm bushings will allow you to adjust the toe in the rear, by adjusting one or the other of the bushings. They aren't cheap though, I think about 120 or so for the four bushings. They also require more maintanence than the stock replacements, as they are aluminum and delrin. You will have to lube them judiciously when you install them, and it is good to pull them and re-lube them every couple years, just to make sure they don't wear out the delrin.

Originally posted by mdbrandy

http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=23-4171&Category_Code=PSDC07A

The reason I'm being annoying is that he is saying rear camber kit and you are say adjustable bushings. I'm asking if these are the same, if not a link of adjustable bushings would be appreciated. Thanks.

Just for clarities sake, the link I originally posted went right to the product page, and doesn't have a picture. A couple levels up, there's a picture:

http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PSDC07A

Good luck.

Well, the main reason I called them adjustable bushings is the fact that there are two ways to adjust the camber, either with the adjustable control arm bushings, or at the top of the strut with their adjustable "insulator".

The link Mark just posted is what I am talking about. You should also get the wrench that goes with them, although you could make them yourself. They are made of a thin guage aluminum as there is very little room and a regular wrench won't fit. All you need to do is loosen the bolts on the mounting "cap" and you can then adjust them fairly easily if they are well lubricated, but you will need to jack up the tire just enough to get the weight off it.

Alright, I got the bushings on and still have some toe in and now I have some more camber. I'm wondering whats tweaked this so bad, the only things that could be causing this is the A arm or hub, right? So if I got a new A-arm and new struthousing/hub it should straighten out?

It's probably either the control arm, or the chassis itself or chassis mounts that are tweaked.

Considering all the trouble it is to change a control arm since the spindle pins can be a PITA, you should consider either replacing the whole strut/control arm as an assembly off a parts car to see if it changes anything, or put the car on a frame machine.

My vote would go to a good frame machine at this point, as the chassis or mounts would more than likely shift before the control arm would bend, and seeing your control arm, I'm not sure it is bent.