HELP-she no run right!!!

[wolf66]

Long story/short-bought 77-280z FI 5 sp that sat in barn for 7 years-

fired up and ran ok when i got her home (changed all tune up items incld draing fuel tank, bought new injectors/injector wires and plug wires etc) rev to redine fine, (about a month ago)

but now that i am ready to tag/drive (body work done for now) she starts and idles fine, revs to 2-3000rpm great but above 3000rpm the motor acts like the fuel supply or electrical is getting turned off every second, sounds like i am reving her up then letting off in a fast way, vroom, vroom, vroom etc but i am holding the pedal steady. Kinda like it drops about 3 cylinders above 2,500/3,000

Things i have done since this started:

changed plugs, distrb. cap/rotor, and fuel filter under hood. unhooked/hooked up dist. vacume advance, checked timing (hard to say has 2 marks that show up on flywheel under timing light, think its set around 13 degrees as i didn't think the vacume adv works) replaced coil.

Bad:

Fuel regulator thingy?

Fuel pump?

Dist.?

Possible other causes....was changing dash temp guage thermostat two days ago(right before this started), had distrb. cap off to get the plugs wires out of the way...when i removed the water inlet housing from the motor some anti-freeze poured out (d'oh forgot to lower water level in radiator) and i believe some went in the open distrb. (cap had some splashed about the inside when i removed cap next day.) I left the cap off all night and put on a new cap and rotor but i worry anti-freeze don't dry so well.....would that make it idle nice down low but cut out up top?

The Suncoast Zcar Club is having their annual pinic Sunday!!!! MUST ATTEND.....sigh

Maybe it was long story/long..

Antony

St pete Fl

'77 280z 5sp

[racebird1]

You Have to get that water out of the distributor because it won't run with it in there. When you close it up what does evaporate will only condensate on the inside of the cap. I would pull the dist. out and drain it and blow it out and find a safe spray to rinse it. Maybe brake cleen then blow it out again then a little wd-40 shouldn't hurt.

[MikeW]

You Have to get that water out of the distributor because it won't run with it in there.

Perhaps the original poster has already fixed the problem in the last two and a half years.

[sblake01]

And, besides, WD40 conducts electricity and is flamable.

[racebird1]

Yeah I believe your probably right I would hope they Have. I read the post while doing a search and I guess I should have looked at the date. I have used wd-40 in the dist before to displace the moisture and it works great naturally you can't leave puddles in there you have to get all the excess blown out.

[DatsunZsRule]

I couldn't help but notice you did the same thing on this post made back in 2004 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=195710#post195710 We all make mistakes but just remember to check the date of the thread first.

Ok, I'm done playing forum police

[sblake01]

I use an electrical contact cleaner and lube rather than WD40. The use of WD40 on electrical stuff is just one of those things that everyone has heard over the years and accepts. Light a cigarette lighter and blow WD40 through the flame. Can you say 'torch'! I don't want that stuff in my distributor. That's just my opinion and prefference. Now that we're totally off topic on this 2.5 year old thread.:classic:

[=Enigma=]

I see nothing wrong with posting to an old thread, so long as you are adding some useful content and making the thread more useful in the end. Not sure that's the case here however.

[BuDavid]

yeah, sometimes bringing up the same subject again with going throuh the search refreshes up the old common problems or issues, which gives a good chance to share new tips and open eyes for new Z owners.. besides it makes the forum more alive I would say.. because if everybody logged on, searched and logged off, this place would sem dead at the end! I would like that forum people would show up from time to time rather than searching and dissapearing..

just a thaught..

I hope that your car is allready fixed Antony, coz it seems that the trouble you have is after the water splashing you had.. if not, try to go forther in EFI system, sensors and maybe it is justa loose connection somewhere, you have the thermo time switch in front, "maybe" the air flow of the fan pushes the connector and disturbes the engine control.. I had a similar trouble once, the car just die at certain RPM, not always, but at vibration or haigh air folw, cleaned the conector with electrical contact cleaner and pressed the connector's terminals to hold the teeth on sensor better..

good luck..

Mohamed.

[mholmes]

You may want to consider pulling the gas tank and having it boiled out and re-lined. I was having similar problems and went through about $1500 in repairs to a mechanic that never bothered to think of the gas tank. These cars are very picky on having super clean gas tanks. The cost is about $150-200 and a lot of radiator shops do it. As soon as I re-installed the cleaned tank my hesitation problems went away. Just something to think about.

[sblake01]

Bringing up the subject again is one thing but 2 1/2 years later? Let's let this one go. Either he's fixed it by now or gave up or whatever. But he never again responded in this thread. In fact, his last post on this site was March 2004.

[beandip]

You may want to consider pulling the gas tank and having it boiled out and re-lined. I was having similar problems and went through about $1500 in repairs to a mechanic that never bothered to think of the gas tank. These cars are very picky on having super clean gas tanks. The cost is about $150-200 and a lot of radiator shops do it. As soon as I re-installed the cleaned tank my hesitation problems went away. Just something to think about.

RIGHT AND CHANGE THE LIGHT BULBS WHILE YOU ARE AT IT .!! DID YOU READ THE ORIGIONAL POST . IT IS OVER 2 YEARS OLD !:mad: