dip or media blast?

[theswan]

I'm in the early stages of my 76 280 restore, rebuild, improve project. It is now stripped down to a shell, and I'm talking to potential body shops. My question is this; Should I have the car acid dipped, media blasted or use some other? method to get it down to bare metal? The car will be used as a Sunday driver and for the occasional track day, solo event. It was originally bondeco rustproofed when new, and this has worked well to preserve the car but the rustproofing is still sticky inside rockers quarter panels etc. If I have it media blasted, my concern is the media sticking to this stuff, holding moisture and having the car rust out. If I have it dipped,(acid?), I realize this will remove all the sealer etc. between body seams and could lead to leaks and again rust in confined areas. I plan on having the car rust checked every year or two, just want to try and do the job right thr first time. Does anyone have ideas, experiences, recommendations, with either method?Thanks in advance.

[26th-Z]

theswan,

Your question comes up quite often and I encourage you to web search "rust removal", "acid dipping", "metal restoration", and "media blasting". You will find all kinds of information. I don't like the acid dipping approach because it is difficult to stabilize the acids and they will do as much damage over time as rust. Your observation about the effects of media blasting could lead to trouble as well, trapping material inside the chassis. I encourage you to look at "electrolytic dipping" as a safer alternative. You will have the seam seal and primer issues to contend with, the chassis will be cleaned to bare metal inside and out without damage to any metal plating that has been done originally, and any rust issue will be eliminated. All of the seam seal areas are accessible. I will use a long wand to spray primer inside the frame as best I can.

[Z Kid]

Here we have a company that "Base Dips" I assume its like a giant tub of brake fluid, but the advantage is that it does not in any way affect the properties of metal. Might be something to look for?

[hls30.com]

The '72 I am getting prepped to restore, is going to get a similar treatment. After talking to a big old bunch of people who have had cars dipped, and media blased for years before I knew what it ment, I have come to the conclusion that I will have the Undercarriage mediablasted-to perserve the seals in the car, and hand strip the bodywork and interior. Dipping seems to be fine for cars in low to no humidity, but acid pulls water from the air, and here in the South Georgia humidity, that would spell catastrophe!

After the mediablasting, I will repair any problems that are brought to light, and seal both sides of the floorpan.

Stripping buy hand also will allow me to properly address the humidity issues that have cropped up in previous restorations by minimizing the time that sheet metal is bare. I do not want a repeat performance of the doors in my '73.

Will

[Mr Camouflage]

Speaking of rust proofing, is this POR 15 stuff as good as its hyped up to be?

[civ104]

It's good, but tricky to lay down right. Eastwood has what they call Rust Encapsulator. www.eastwood.com

[hls30.com]

I use POR15, and I like it, but the directions are absolutely necessary! The Eastwood product is easier to use, but not as abrasion resistant. I use POR15 on the high wear areas, and the areas that can't be seen, and other products for areas where I will be doing bodywork.

Will

[Bruce Palmer]

For those looking for an easy to use single package system with no isocyanates, check out the 16 month test Len Stuart at autobodystore.com did with Zero Rust and POR.

http://www.autobodystore.com/images/boattest.jpg

The message board is great for body and paint related info for DIYers as is www.paintucation.com (killer how to videos)......

Cheers.