Has anyone used the Glisten PC with the AP-120? They are POR-15 products. I want to use something on my polished aluminum to protect it.

Ed, I just read the specs on Glisten PC, and it sounds like the toughest clear coat ever made!

yea, it sounds tough enough but will it cause discoloration or look clear coated?

Ed, I have used it to coat all of the exterior chrome emblems, and it does take out some of the "blue" in chrome, but is is damn near indestructable, and completely seals against weather. If all of chrome is done, nobody would know. I bought a NOS set of european bumpers last year, and they will be treated before installation-I have had several factory and re-chcromed bumpers rust through in less than 2 years.

All of the exterior chrome on the car will be treated, and so will the aluminum rims after they are polished.

I don't believe you will be dissappointed, and more to the point, I think you will wonder why you didn't do this sooner!

Take two emblems, treat one, let it dry, and compare it to the other!

Will

Thanks Will, this is the response I was hoping for.

Ed, follow the directions to the letter and pay particular attention to being sure the last rinse is completely dry. I masked the fronts, and painted the backsides first-remove any clips-let them dry, then I painted the pretty sides(overlapping the coating on the back) while they were hanging-keeps the dust off, and the thickest part of the coating in the middle-not the edges.

Will

By the way don't try brushing this stuff. I just tried and it looks like complete sh!t. IT says it flows out but unless you are workign with a perfectly flat piece (metal sheet??) or very small piece it's impossible to get complete coverage with a brush without getting runs, drips and partially dried pulled films. I'm really pissed. I spent a lot of time polishing just to end up ruining it with this crap.

michael

Michael,

I used the stuff with the finest bristle paintbrush I could find, and had a similar problem. I noticed it wasn't flowing out well, and before it dried, went to a larger bristle brush(holds more paint) and made strokes parallel to the longest part of the item, and got great results. I did paint it on upside down to keep the dust out as suggested above, and I think the application of gravity in the upside down position also helped with the surface tension between the metal and the GlistenPC.

Right after I posted this I rememberd I had a lot of Xylene which I used to remove pretty much all of the Glisten PC I had applied. IT hadn't fully dried yet and was gone after I soaked it several times. So I can probaly do another quick polish and try again maybe with a gun this time. Thanks for the advice though, but I dont' hink I'm skilled enough to paint this on no matter how I turn it or what kind of brush I use.

michael

I agree, I tried brushing it on my aluminium rims after they were polished and ended up stripping it all off and doing the job again after I was not happy with the bubbles in the finish. I'm sure the product is great. But next time ill be spraying it.

Luke

Yeh I brushed it on too, on a set of shiny wheel rims. What annoyed me was the makers claim as to its brushability with no specific instructions as to how to do it properly, if special application does help. It turned out bad no matter how much care was taken, bastards.

It does seem to be quite a durable product but I wondered about other cheaper products that would do the job too, like the clear used by wheel manufacturers or even that two pack clear used on wooden floors.

Well I went ahead and tried spraying it since the brush-on application didnt' work. I didn't have much luck there either, though a good part of that is probably due to my lack of experience spraying paint. THe first coat was too thin and didn't spread out like it was supposed to, even with ~10% thinning with xylene. And then I sprayed the second coat too thick. IT looked good at first but then it started to get REALLY bad runs. So I ended up wiping that coat off with xylene and didn't end up with enough paint to get 2 good coats on after that. So the finished product has lots of clear coat bumps all over it and bubbles in some places. Basically looks like crap. I'll probably never use it again, at least not for a smooth polished surface. I dont' recommend it unless you are very skilled with a spray gun and are good at reading layer thickness. My 2 cents.

Oh and I'll probably end up sanding the valve cover smooth and spraying it with color paint some day. It's a steel valve cover so unless the clear coat is perfect and adhered properly it will rust and it will be visible. Now I know why all of the 1200/210 owners spray their covers with color and don't bother polishing them! I really wasted a lot of time, money and energy!

Michael

Interesting post! What ever happened to old elbow grease? It seems like alot of effort and time goes into applying this stuff, when a little TLC and elbow grease on a regular basis (old school) seems to work wonderfully! I never did like any of the clear coats intended to cover aluminum or what ever. One tiny nick or scratch and the corrosion starts to propigate under the clear coat....then it really looks like crap. I'll stick to the old rubbing method, thank you!