help ?

[CableSrv]

Ok, I just bought a 1972 240z. l24 i assume with mt 5speed.

I plan to do a full oil, trans, coolant change but lack the knowledge of what these engines take....

so far i bought 8 quarts of 10w30 synthetic ? and unsure what to get for the trans fluid.

already got water wetter and some radiator fluid and some dot 3 brake fluid to change that out.

there was no manual with the z to check what fluids i need.

if someone could post the requirements i'd appreciate it.

[wolf66]

Older engines w/ crud built up in them are not good canidates for Snyth oil, it is VERY detergent and will knock all that crud off, maybe plugging a oil galley. (unless it has always had Snyth or was just rebuilt and is clean inside) 10/30w is good though.

The manual tranny's take a GL-4 gear oil, NOT a GL-5 which is designed for rear ends. (you will need some GL-5 for the rear end though..)

[mdbrandy]

Also, you only need 5 qt oil for the engine, including the filter, and unless the transmission has been changed out (very possible with these cars), it is most likely a 4 speed.

[CableSrv]

transmission HAS been changed out as this is a 5 speed.

but no clue which 5 speed it is.... any idea on what fluid to put in it ?

[CableSrv]

Ok not sure where you think only the 4 speeds are in 240z, as the haynes manual I have shows it also has the option for 5 speed trans.

either way my filler bolt was stuck and was not able to remove, and with successfull searching it seems the reverse light could be removed and used that as a filler.

I put in synthetic gl5 fluid in the trans and it runs beautifully!

I also ran cd2 in the motor to help break up the sludge in the engine then ran 10w30 synthetic oil. car RUNS MUCH BETTER!!

the only issue i have so far was when i bled the brakes no matter how much i tried i still had bubbles coming out of the line. I used a vacum/brake bleeder thing. with 20psi vacume on the bleeder ends of the caliper air CONTINUED to come out.... not sure if something could be wrong with the lines or something wrong with the master cylinder. any ideas ?

also reading the haynes manual there is a plug to remove for draining the coolant fluids.. on the light hand side of the engine. any idea where ?

my next issue is the shifter is sloppy but on the zhome.com page there is a how to, to help remove the sloppiness out of it.

[mdbrandy]

Originally posted by CableSrv

Ok not sure where you think only the 4 speeds are in 240z, as the haynes manual I have shows it also has the option for 5 speed trans.

my next issue is the shifter is sloppy but on the zhome.com page there is a how to, to help remove the sloppiness out of it.

The Haynes manual is British. Overseas, some 240Z's had 5 speeds, but in the US, I believe all we got were 4 speeds up until the 280Z, and the 5 speed was a option for it.

Assuming you have one of the later 280Z type of 5 speeds, replacing the bushings on the shifter is very easy. Three plastic pieces and less than $15. You can get them from one of our sponsors - www.midwestz.com.

[2ManyZs]

Mark is correct, there were no 5 speeds in 240's offered in the US models, they weren't offered here in the US as an option until late 76 or 77.

If you didn't bleed the master cylinder first before doing the rear cylinders and front calipers this may be where the air is trapped.

You may be pulling too much vacuum trying to bleed the brakes, or, if the seals in the master cylinder are not in good condition, you may actually be pulling air into the master with that much vacuum. Try bleeding the master cylinder first, then do the wheels the old fashioned way by hand, and see if it improves, if you still get air, your master cylinder is probably shot. The seals will detiorate in a very short time if the brake fluid gets moisture in it while the car was sitting. Also, putting new O-rings on the caps might possibly help too....

The drain plug on the block is under the intake/exhaust manifold. I wouldn't bother trying to get it out, as it will likely be siezed, or at least nearly impossible to remove due to its position. If you thought the drain plug on the trans was tough, try removing the drain plug on the block:cross-eye

[CableSrv]

awesome and yea your probably right on the master cylinder...

oh well i plan to replace it once i start doing my ls1 swap

btw mark thanks for the link so I can get the bushings. I already got a master set of polyurethan bushings coming

next is to save up and do a 280z spindle swap then 5 lug conversion then r230, then nice coilovers and koni's struts

[CableSrv]

ok one last thing... how to change the clutch fluid ?

this stuff seems exceptionally dirty!!

[2ManyZs]

Simple, get a small piece of rubber hose that fits over the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder on the bellhousing, open the bleeder just a little, put the hose in a can and pump the clutch pedal. Keep adding fluid to the reservoir till it's fairly clean, then close up the bleeder till it's just barely open, pump the clutch pedal a couple times and close the bleeder. Closing the bleeder till it's just barely open will put some pressure in the line to force the fluid out with any air, or you can just do it by gravity. Close the bleeder, refill the reservoir and your done.

Oh, if the screen in the bottom of the reservoir is really gunked up, you can pull it out with a pair of small needle nose pliers and clean it.

[CableSrv]

awesome thanks!!

[CableSrv]

ok last question, however this isn't a mechanical howto just a general info question.

tach goes to 8k..... can engine goto 8k? so far i've taken it no furthor than 5.5k to 6k. Since i'm kinda new to these inline 6's I have no clue what they can do.

when I purchased the vehical it already had a msa 6-1 header and a full out exhaust using a dynomax? muffler. and as you can tell already had a 5 speed swap.. dunno about engine or diff tho.