Hello all....

A while back I converted my stock 240 external VR / alternator setup to the internal VR / alternator GM setup.

Everything works like a charm... BUT, and there always is a But... Does anyone know how to modify the wiring so the alternator/VR setup will begin to produce output voltage without needing to bring the engine RPM's up to 2000 to excite the alternator output circuit??

Thanks

-Phil359

What's so bad about having to rev the motor once to 2000? I doit evrey time I start mine just to hear it rev

Otherwise, I think there's a way to hook up a switch you will have to flick once after you start the engine- same as revving it.

Why not just go with a smaller pulley on the alternator to speed it up, I'd imagine there would be plenty of pulley options for a GM alternator.

>>Why not just go with a smaller pulley on the alternator to speed it up, I'd imagine there would be plenty of pulley options for a GM alternator.

Ya know that's such a simple solution :stupid: ... of course not as simple as TomoHawks suggestion

Thanks.. I'll give that a try...

My "switch flicking solution" isn't as simple as just stomping on the gas pedal.. You'd have to reach over after you start the engine and push the switch lever or button every time. It just seems easier to leave it alone, since it's already put together and 'not broken.'

I fitted a int reg alternator off a ford to my v8 dont know how it works but the auto electrician put a small pilot globe into circuit so as to excite alternator and charge all the time its just a normal globe (like small dash light)

Might be worth asking a auto electricain let me know if you need i can ask the guy who did my conversion

Mick

that's why your "Check Engine" light goes on when the ignition is on, and turns off when the ehgine starts up!!

...Exept the light is inside the car. Eaxact same thing.

yeah thats what the auto electricain said mines in the engine well actually the panel infront of the radiator got a volt meter inside lets know every things working fine

Mick

Thanks for the info.....

I did some checking around on the net last nite, and it seems that the warning lite terminal from the alternator is connected in series with a lamp that is wired to a 12v switch source in the car.

The theory is that when the alternator is not operating, the warning lite terminal is at ground which gives you a complete circuit, which in turn some how helps excite the alternator circuit and get the output circuit going

When the alternator is operating correctly the warning lite terminal is at 12v so no current is passing through the lamp...

I plan to try this out this week-end to see if it works