L26 w/ clanging sounds ????

[4381821]

I've got a 260 that I just changed the carbs over. The price was very right, cheaper than SU's by a long shot, so I now have dual webers on it. I've got them tuned (don't know why everyone bitches about that) and her idling nicely.

When I was doing the tuning with the engine running, it sounds like something(s) is clanging inside. Not pinging, but kinda clanging. My neighbor says it sounds like my lifters are bad, or I've thrown a bearing. Can anyone elaborate, or offer some advice? It looks like my valve gasket has been leaking oil slowly in the front for some time judging by the greasy depositing that goes down that side of the engine. Meaning, I will probably take the valve cover off this weekend. When I do so, what should I be looking for regarding this clang'n? I also am assuming I will need to replace the cover gasket each time I take it off?

[edit] pics now attached [/edit]

[US240Z]

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[Ed]

When you take your valve cover off inspect all your rockers, make sure the springs are all in place. Do a valve adjustment. Look at your chain, do a thorough inspectioin on all the moving parts. You should be able to reuse a good gasket a few times as long as it's not abused or as flat as a pancake. I've reused mine a couple of times.

On your "clanging" does it do it all the time? At idle and higher rpm? Give us some more details.

A spun bearing will make a grinding noise. Like rubbing a big stick on pavement.

[4381821]

it's really really annoying today. I drove it for 5 miles, and it was awful. It sounds like a loud sewing machine. It gets faster as I accelerate going down the road, and when I put it in neutral while goin, it's better than when it's in gear.

Is that loose rod part of my cam oiler??? what would cause it to be wacked out? also, how does one check his valves?

[Ed]

The oiler that you described as whacked out should be solid and parrallel with the cam. The oiler sprays oil on the cam lobe, if the allignment is off then you wouldn't be getting any oil on your cam/rocker.

How do you adjust the valves you ask? Not to be rude or anything but that tells me you need to get a service manual. Seriously.

[Ed]

Almost looks like your cam oiler is rubbing against the cam.

[4381821]

I second that one.

[2ManyZs]

You've got some major oiling problems, also notice the lobes of the cam on the #2 exhaust and both lobes on #3 cylinder.

They look like they've gone without oil for a while compared to #6.

I hate to say it, but I'd pull the head and have it checked out throughly. It's possible the valve guides have sustained some damage as well as the rockers, not too mention the possibility of the cam needing to be replaced or reground.

If you look under #2-3 and #6, notice how there is no oil puddle in the valley in the head, only burned on oil residue, which shows it may have been getting very hot on those 3 areas due to the cam oiler not oiling those lobes.:disappoin

[4381821]

I didn't think it really looked that bad myself, the car has 114K miles and is older than me... maybe it's just the lighting or the distance in those pics, but the lobes all seemed relatively the same.

I called a repair shop regarding my valves, just curious as to how much a valve job would cost, and they said $500. DAMN. is this a bit high, or do I need to "get with it" and start drop'n $$$ and not lookin back.

[2ManyZs]

You won't know how much you'll need to spend until you take the head off and have it pulled apart to find out if any significant damage has been done or not. It's too difficult to tell by just veiwing pics to be able to accurately diagnose the extent of any possible damage, if any.

You'd need to pull the cam, rockers, valves etc to check the valve guides, seats, cam bearings and all.

I don't know if Motorsport Auto still offers the rebuilt heads like they used to or not, but they used to offer fully rebuilt heads for about 450 plus a 150 core charge. I believe these were rebuilt by ATK, which, according to what we've heard isn't supplying the rebuilt engines like they used to. So, the best thing to do would be to call MSA and see, it might save you time and money in the long run.

[seerex]

before pulling the head , which maybe needed anyway , I would pull of the cam oiler rod the bent thing , held on by two bolts clean and straighten it , use canned air and carb cleaners you will see little holes all down it and these must be clean and flowing freely , and then get your valves adjusted, if the oiler tube is unable to be straightened replace it either with used or new but it must be fixed , 2many is probably right but the time to fix and clean the oiler tube and adjust the valves will give a chance to decide how much you want to put in it and won't cost you a bunch

[4381821]

I soldered the cam oiler, and everything appears ok there now....

I also adjusted my valves per what my newly acquired service manual says....cold first, then warm.

I just don't get it. The sound actually went away after the cold adjustment. But after the warm, it came back. Why do I need to even adjust them warm? Heat causes expansion, so why would I go greater whenr it was warmer??? it seems stupid to me. I tried redoing the warm adjustment, and still noisy. I guess I'll try a cold again tomorrow morning.