My LUG NUTS are stuck, how can I get it off?

[ChrisA]

I have been using anti-seize for years and have never had a loose lug nut. A little goes a long way. Tomohawk makes a good point about cleaning the threads. I use agood wire brush to clean them up then the anti-seize. I had a set of the American Racing Libre/Libra? wheels and they were a bitch on nuts and studs till I started using the anti-seize. I guess its really a matter of preference or security. In my case being in the salt belt, the anti-seize protects the contact between the stud and nut really well. As a side note, I have always used the stock lug wrench that comes in the car. Never broke a stud, that would suck!!

[sblake01]

I agree. Clean threads, a little 3-in-1 oil, 65 lbs/ft torque, and NEVER use an impact gun. I've never broken a stud but I've reapaired a lot of broken studs for other people!

[TomoHawk]

OIL? I wouldthink that it would wash off after so long. The antisieze would be stronger, more effective than the oil, and last longer.

But do you prefer Aluminum, copper, or graphite antisieze? My voite is for Aluminum.

[240ZX]

There is available, a Nuclear Grade Anti-Sieze with no metal in it at all. It usually looks black. I've used the nuclear grade for years and have never had any dissimilar metal problems, that can happen when you use a copper based anti-sieze on aluminum, especially when you're near salt water.

[TomoHawk]

I worked on a nuclear-grade antisieze for a while. I remember the only requirement was that it was free of chlorine. Don't remember what color it was. I've always used copper for high-temp. and aluminum for general use.

[sblake01]

Originally posted by TomoHawk

OIL? I wouldthink that it would wash off after so long. The antisieze would be stronger, more effective than the oil, and last longer.

But do you prefer Aluminum, copper, or graphite antisieze? My voite is for Aluminum.

3-in-1 oil has always worked for me. I just put a few drops on each stud whenever I remove a lug nut and I've never had a problem removing them. Antisieze would probably be more effective but this has always worked.

[Alfadog]

Bit of an amatuer question...... how tightly should one do up ones lug nuts?

[2ManyZs]

Factory spec torque is 57-65ft/lbs.....

FWIW, any type of oil is fine on mag wheels nuts, since it's a closed nut design. Stock type lugs should use some type of anti-seize as the stud has threads exposed beyond the nut. If it is not exposed to the outside elements, oil should work just fine.

The extended shank nuts like are used on the Libre's should have anti-sieze on the outside as well, I've seen them corrode at the point of contact with the wheels to the point they begin to pit the lug nuts and darn near impossible to break loose. They have two points of possible problem areas for corrosion.

[Ed]

So will the anti-sieze help prevent rust from developing?

[ChrisA]

Ed, yes the anti-seize will protect against rust. My 72 has 180,00 miles and has always been in the salt belt. When I remove my wheels there is not a trace of rust on the studs or the area on the hub where the stud holes in the wheels are. I use Permatex #80078. It resists heat up to 1600 F. It really works well on exhaust manifold bolts/studs as well.

[sblake01]

I should have stated that I was talking about using oil on closed lug nuts. Like the lug nuts on the 280/280Z alloys, the chrome acorns on the steel wheels on my truck etc. The only time I ever use open lug nuts is when I put the temp. spare on my Z or 810 which is hardly ever. But, we are getting away from the gist of this thread. What is the best way to remove siezed lug nuts without ruining the studs? I and assuming that he means open lug nuts since there would be no way to oil closed ones. I always used a long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a short extension and my Snap-On double ended lug nut socket. Even then, if they are really badly siezed, as in this case, you are still running the risk of breaking one or two as stated by LanceM. Leading to the next topic: 'Replacing broken studs'. :classic:

[SuDZ]

Good tips on greasing them up. When I got my Z back about 6 months ago I had a nearly impossible time getting the lugs off. First I tried the regular 4-way. No good, still stuck. So then I broke out the breaker bar to get them off, still stuck. So at this point I grabbed one side of the 4 way and my broither the other. The 4way was bending but not even moving the lugs.

Finally I got the air gun and set it for 150 pounds. It STILL was not moving at all. At this point I got the breaker bar again and was standing on it now. Still not moving and just suspending me in the air. I am no small guy either coming in at 6'2" 225 or so. Eventually hitting it with the air gun again finnally broke it loose, but now I think when I put them back on I will go the grease route.

SuDZ