Professionally sealed gas tank baffles?

[Bentley]

Hi gang,

I sent my tank to "Gas Tank Renu" and it looks great.

However, they appear to have permanently sealed the gaps at the bottom of the baffles in the tank, although I begged them ahead of time to be careful NOT to clog them.

Anyway, they are sealed, thus leaving the tank very divided. I expect the result will be a lifetime of incorrect fuel gauge measurements.

Any Suggestiions on a do it yourself fix, like drilling through the baffle? I have not installed the tank.

[Bambikiller240]

Before doing anything yourself, I'd suggest contacting the Gas Tank Renu folks and explain to them the problem. They "should" be willing to take the tank back and fix it properly. They claim an excellent warrenty, and customer service. I would expect nothing less than the job correctly done.

Just my $.02

Carl

FYI:

Drilling through the baffle will breach the seal that they have laid down. I would strongly advise against doing THAT. At minimum I suspect it would void the warranty.

[LanceM]

Since you had it professionaly done I would first try to go back to them to get it corrected.

I just sealed my own tank with extream care not to do the same thing and it did... I used a long drill extention and drilled several 1/2" holes in the baffle at the bottom to correct my mistake. Not sealing them up seems like an impossable task as the gaps are very small.

[Bentley]

THanks.

I am going to call Renu this morning, but I'm still in denial that I'll probably need to send it back for a few weeks. :tapemouth

Lance, When you went in with the drill, did you go straight in the main fill tube? THat looks like the best route, if I have too. Any trick to staying off the bottom of the tank?

Also, I want to check the top of the vent tubes, but the little plastic rivets that hold the interior panels are tight. Any trick to getting them out with out breaking them?

Z-idiot

[LanceM]

I went through the main fill, I used a cheap 1/2" wood spade bit ($2), they have a sharp point, a good push on the drill before you start gives you a point in the metal so the bit dosen't want to wonder much. Needless to say after a few holes you throw the bit away.

To get the rivits out push the center pin all the way through the rivit with an aproprate sized tool, this will allow you to take the rivit out. After you get the panel off, look for all of the pins you pushed out When you put it back together put the rivit in then insert the pin in the center and push it flush with the top of the rivit head.

[MAX]

I have a similar problem. I sealed my gas tank myself using the POR15 gas tank sealing kit. However, I think I have gotten the end of the supply line sealed.

Any thoughts on how to unclog this?

Max

[Bentley]

Bummer on the supply line. IF you check the achieved threads, and search under gas tank, or fuel tank, there were several long threads last fall, and one fellow had the same problem you have with the fuel line.

As for my problem, I called Renu (Hart dealership in Texas) and they confirmed that I had really informed them ahead of time, were really sorry, and insisted on repairing the problem themselves, and covering shipping both directions. I did not ask for, or expect that. They were so nice and professional, it was refreshing.

I had lined up 2 days without wife and Kids to blitz the Z, and the first step was to install the new tank. SInce the tank had a problem, I was really tempted to drill away myself, but I sadly decided to what again. The folks at Renu handled my delicate condition just right, so I shipped it back to them.

I STRONGLY RECOMMEND TO ANYONE OUT THERE WITH PLANS TO SEAL A TANK ---- DRILL HOLES THROUGH THE FIRST BIG BAFFLE BEFORE IT IS SEALED! A pair of 1/2 inch holes should do the job, without effecting the performance of the baffle. THis should be standard operating procedure for this tank because the original gaps were really too small to start with if you ask me. Mine were sealed with sludge when I took it out.