Dipping Questions

[ryoojin83]

Ok, I'm Working on my master plan.

So when they dip your car I hear that it removes everything including the areas you can't get to again.... I also heard that after its dipped they apply zinc phosphate to stop rust before you paint...

Guess I was wondering how long you can leave it Unpainted with the zinc phosphate applied? (assuming that its covering metal that you can't get in to paint)

OR

Is there a method similar to Iodizing (putting color between the molecules of metal...Probably used the wrong word) ANYWAY, is there a method like dipping(or iodizing) that keeps the rust from forming (once again because after dipping I'm told there are areas you can't get to again)...

THANKS FOR THE TIME!

(if you know of prices that would be cool too)

[26th-Z]

Hey there!

This is a subject I know a little about. Probably just enough to be dangerous! Read up on the subject by doing a web search for "electrolytic rust removal". Try other searches "metal restoration", rust removal", and "acid rust removal". We have discussed the pros and cons of dipping versus blasting as well as acid treatments. All in the name of rust removal. I am in favor of the electrolytic rust removal process because my major rust issues come from inside the chassis - inside the rockers and frame rails, and wheel housings. Those areas were not protected from the begining. They are "sealed" and not meant to get wet. But humidity over 30 years has taken it's toll and it is the very part of the chassis you can't get to that is my major concern. Keep in mind that those areas were never coated to begin with. To the best of my knowledge, 240Zs were not primer dipped or paint dipped. They were sprayed.

Complete submersion techniques will take everything off the metal. Electrolytic rust removal involves drawing the rust off the metal in a "rust reversal" process. I understand that lead, well applied bondo, and plastic is not affected by the electrolytic process except where rust is underneath. The place I found uses an alkaline solution and the metal dries with a white (baking soda) powder all over it. The powder is to keep the metal from flash rusting and lasts about two weeks.

There are phosphate solutions that can be used to protect metal from surface rusting, and zinc phosphate would be fine if you can find a place to do that. Phosphoric acids are commonly used to clean metal as well as seal it. Something like "Naval Jelly" is about 35% phosphoric acid and should be cleaned off after treatment. There are Phosphoric acids solutions like "OSPHO" (less than 10%) that can be allowed to dry and painted over. Unprotected metal with OSPHO on it lasts about three months. A zinc phosphate coating would last much longer.

My plan of attack is to spray primer inside the boxed sections with wands made from copper or plastic tubing. It will be sloppy, but so what. It may not get everything, but so what. As I go around sealing little rust holes, the welding on the inside will not get protected - the same as the car was originally built. The section will get sealed up and I suspect it will last another 30 years.

I am using "Revivations" in Wauchula, Florida. They charge around $1200 to dip the chassis. Doors, fenders, suspensions are extra and they have a long waiting line. I would like to know the name of the place you are considering.