Posted March 30, 200420 yr comment_74812 Ok, Please give me input ...remember this is just an Idea...:beard: the areas that will rust the most(?) are the inside of the box sections in the car. (ok, not true, but this is the thought that got me thinking)... Why don't you cut it open, weld in a few supports and weld it all shut except a small hole where you weld in a threaded nut(?) or something....then paint the inside with a small spray tool (not thought through very well, but im trying!) then put a valve in the threaded area (small valve, for cosmetics) and evacuate the area of air (the reason for the supports is becuase of outside airpressure) to hopefully prevent oxidation....at least if it does rust through you'll know when you hear a loud WHOOOSHing sound :-) ANYWAY! wondering if anyone has ever heard of this or something similar being done?Maybe this sounds retarded too....i don't have much knowledge of the Z body soo... it could be random, but i just remember hearing things from threads here and there talking about the boxed sections...(and from random websites)maybe its more work than its worth...sorry about the random input....don't want to spam bad ideas Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/11003-idea-about-after-dipping-for-sealed-boxed-sections/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 30, 200420 yr comment_74826 Kind of a neat idea, I like the access port, but the part about evacuating the air is a bit much. Have you ever hooked up a metal can to a vacuum pump? 14psi(at sea-level) doesn't sound like much, but it does take some ridigity to stop the deformaion it is capable of. Way bach in highschool, our physics class evacuated a metal "duplicating fluid can"-it went completely flat! We also evacuated a very sturdy pressed steel gas can-as I remember it was made out of steel about the same thickness as our body sheetmetal-flattened it until the metal tore! I would cut out a scrap section to try before doing thid on a car-might be messy!I think putting in a pair of your threaded access points(one at the top, and one at the bottom) and filling the area with a phosphoric acid solution, followed by a healthy couple of fluid and dry-air flushes, then POR 15 (or Eastwood) would probably take care of it!Will Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/11003-idea-about-after-dipping-for-sealed-boxed-sections/#findComment-74826 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 30, 200420 yr Author comment_74847 thanks for the input. I had forgotten the affects were so great. only evacuating i did was out of a thick glass case, never really occured to me that it would be as strong as I now rememeber... hehe, oh well, just an idea. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/11003-idea-about-after-dipping-for-sealed-boxed-sections/#findComment-74847 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 30, 200420 yr comment_74857 Most boxed sections have weep holes in them to alow condensation to escape or stiched seam welds that allow the same. On places like frame rails and the like I have injected corrosion proofing materials into those areas using a spray wand like you suggest. Much like the boys at your local rust proofing place would do, only since it is my car I think I did a little better job at making sure everything was coated. If the holes you drill are in a spot that water or dirt can enter you can get plastic/rubber plugs to fill the holes, if it is in a rather enclosed area I just leave them open. If you want to seal it up, draw a minor vacumum on the area and fill it with an inert gas like nitrogen Of course you would be hard pressed to tell if it ever leaked out Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/11003-idea-about-after-dipping-for-sealed-boxed-sections/#findComment-74857 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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