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Dash Covers? Look!


Datsun-Fever

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Originally posted by GaryZ240

Inf, I don't now why the full face dashcap would make it any harder to remove the speedo and tach, don't they always come out from the back of the dash?

The 3 middle gauges come out from the back but the larger speedometer and tachometer go in from the front.

By the way, anyone thinking of a new dash should take a look at the prices from everyone's favorite Datsun vendor, MidwestZ:

http://www.midwestz.com/Z_Interior.htm

Makes my recent dashboard restoration plus shipping to and from Australia look cheap by comparison.

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Since the speedo and tacho come out the front, you need to make surwethe dash cap doesn't go too far into the holes so you can't get the speedo or tacho out. Otherwise you'll have to cut the face of the dash cap to get those out.

Either cut the dash cap in those places or get one that is the right size in the first place. It might cost you a few extra $$$.

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Having just completed a complete dash replacement, I'll tell you if it was worth it after the skin grows back on my hands :classic:

I had a half dash cap before. It was ok, if you squinted, It looked perfect. Well, the fit of my new (restored) dash pad is not perfect, you can plainly see it's not a cap.

My roadster has a full cap on it's dash. After the big Z dash operation, I don't expect to tackle a dash pad replacement on the roadster any time in the forseeable future. Usually, I'm the guy who encourages other members to get out there and do the job. In this case, my advice will be "do you REALLY want to do THAT chore?".

In my life I've installed 4 dash caps, and that installation has it's pitfalls. Even so, It's Way, way easier than the real deal.

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I used a full-face dash cover from MSA-the last thing I bought from them-in my red 240Z

( http://www.hls30.com/hls30_003.htm ).

I placed the cover on the dash at the beginning of the summer-and let the sun warm and stretch the cover to the exact contours of my dash for a month, then, I used four small dots of adhesive on the cover. One in each upper corner, and one on each side of the climate control panel. The cover fit wonderfully, most people could not tell it was a cover. On close inspection, the trim of openings for the guages, the vents, and the edges at the sides of the dash gave it away, but with the doors shut, the engine running, and the wheels rolling, it was perfect!

With only four dabs of silicone, removal is easy, so guage replacement is only a tad more intense than it was pre-cover.

The real secrets are:

Let the cover experience heat in place for several weeks before you allow the urge to glue it in to take over.

Use glue ONLY where the cover sticks out away from the dash, and then only after tying or banding the offending area to the dash for several weeks of sun. Pulling a piece of vacuum formed plastic out of its "cast" form almost always results in the formation of a compound misfit! Put the cover in position and let the heat that builds up in your car re-temper the ABS into the new position before using any glue.

Will

FYI I am going to take some detailed pictures of my '72 before and after I send it off for restoration. I will also take the same pictures of the cap on my '73(it has a '72 dash) for side by side examination.

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I've also installed the full dash cover from MSA and I'm more than happy with it and the way it went on. Took a little prep work to get it to my satisfaction but as far as I'm concerned it looks like a new dash. Regarding the speedo and tach issue. Somehow I don't think I'll ever have to remove them again! If so, I think I'd rather remove the dash than try and work up side down and contorted on the floor pan!!! I'm sorry but I'm not 20 years old anymore. Anyway Datsun-Fever, If done properly, they do look very good and they're a heck of a lot less $$$ than a new or remanufacturted dash, IMO!

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  • 3 weeks later...
Originally posted by GaryZ240

Inf, I don't now why the full face dashcap would make it any harder to remove the speedo and tach, don't they always come out from the back of the dash? Removing the whole dash shouldn't be any more necessary with or without the dashcap. I too, could be wrong. I'll probably go with a full dashcap myself. Can't afford a new dash (or uncracked used one for that matter) and I'm afraid to remove my old one and try and put in a replacement. I have a 1971 (12/70 build date) 240Z and a 1972 parts car. Took the cracked dash out of the parts car (to sell or junk) and that was enough to scare me away from doing dash re-installation myself. I found a 72/73 uncracked dash (picture attached) right across the border in a wrecking yard near Osoyoos, BC that someone had removed, grabbed all the instruments, and left laying unharmed inside the wrecked car. Sold that one on ebay for a nice profit, but I didn't want to switch to that dash because it is quite a bit different from my 1971's dash. So, it's either a full dash cap or find someone with a cheap, uncracked dash that wants to help me swap it in. One can dream can't one?

the dash isn't as hard as you thik to R&R. Took me about 2 hours to remove(maybe less and about the same to reinstall

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Ok, My Dash went out early this week to DashRestoration USA,

UPS wanted $129 to ship, USPS wanted $134 Greyhound wanted $112, and the winner was Fedex at (DrumRoll Please...) $35 really, $35-what was I getting for the additional $100 or so? I couldn't figure it out, so, I drove to the airport and set everything up at the counter. Was the trip worth $100-it was to me!

Anyway, I sent the dash wrapped in $20 worth of bubble wrap in a cut down Dryer box(just replaced the laundry equipment). The finished box measured in at 17"x18"x58", and weighed just over 40lbs. I removed the dash harness, the outer vent lenses-left the housings-, the climate control plumbing, and the glove box, but I left in the glove box door, and all guages(Incl. a nos clock), switches, and anything else that actually went through the dash pad. I also sent the defroster vent trim panel(between the dash and the front window), and a new heater control panel(Thanks again Chloe!). I sent everything that touched the dash pad to allow DashRestoration USA to make the fit perfect. I took a good many pictures before sending the dash, both in and out of the car. I will take the same pictures after I get it back, and post them for all to see. I expect the dash to reach Pete at Dash Restoration USA about the middle of the week, and he said it would take about a month to complete the restoration.

Will

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  • 2 weeks later...

How much does DashRestoration charge for the 240Z dash? Do they give an estimate before hand or what till you ship it to them first?

Originally posted by hls30.com

Ok, My Dash went out early this week to DashRestoration USA,

UPS wanted $129 to ship, USPS wanted $134 Greyhound wanted $112, and the winner was Fedex at (DrumRoll Please...) $35 really, $35-what was I getting for the additional $100 or so? I couldn't figure it out, so, I drove to the airport and set everything up at the counter. Was the trip worth $100-it was to me!

Anyway, I sent the dash wrapped in $20 worth of bubble wrap in a cut down Dryer box(just replaced the laundry equipment). The finished box measured in at 17"x18"x58", and weighed just over 40lbs. I removed the dash harness, the outer vent lenses-left the housings-, the climate control plumbing, and the glove box, but I left in the glove box door, and all guages(Incl. a nos clock), switches, and anything else that actually went through the dash pad. I also sent the defroster vent trim panel(between the dash and the front window), and a new heater control panel(Thanks again Chloe!). I sent everything that touched the dash pad to allow DashRestoration USA to make the fit perfect. I took a good many pictures before sending the dash, both in and out of the car. I will take the same pictures after I get it back, and post them for all to see. I expect the dash to reach Pete at Dash Restoration USA about the middle of the week, and he said it would take about a month to complete the restoration.

Will

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