Will 76 heater controls fit a 78?

[TomoHawk]

Got a chance to get some heater controls from a 76 280Z to put on my 78 2808Z, so I can select the different functions without pulling over to look at where the lever is set to. I'm just not sure if they will interchange?

thx

[wal280z]

I just acquired (for free, yippee) a complete a/c & heater unit from a '76.... my '77 looks the same.

Not sure about the '78 model though....

[Zedrally]

Originally posted by TomoHawk

so I can select the different functions without pulling over to look at where the lever is set to.

I thought the dash and controls for a 260 where similar?

My 260 would be equivilent to your 280.

Have we found another subtle difference in models?

[TomoHawk]

Originally posted by Zedrally

I thought the dash and controls for a 260 where similar?

My 260 would be equivilent to your 280.

Have we found another subtle difference in models?

It's not how itlooks, but more like where the detents for the different functions are. You get used to the approximate position, but when you move the lever, it should catch in the detent. Otherwise you might not turn on that function.

Otherwise, I think the 260s are the same as the 280s- at least the later 260s.

[Zedrally]

Sorry, you've lost me.

I had a re-think and remember that the dash was different in A/C versions. Is this what you mean?

[sblake01]

I know that 77 and 78 are the same because I have a 77 heater control in my 78. I'm just not sure about 76 and 77. I do remember one thing when I was looking for a replacememt. If you have FACTORY air you must use a heater control form a car that has factory air. I you have DEALER INSTALLED air or no ac you must use the non ac heater control. Factory air in the 280Z would say AC on the upper left position and dealer installed or non ac would say AIR in that position.

[TomoHawk]

Mine had the factory a/c, but I removed it all.

I'm more interested in a control that will click into the detents for the different functions.

[wal280z]

grommet for the a/c pipe connections at the firewall... if it is in good condtion... they are NLA from Nissan (I just checked).

However, I did get a plug from Nissan (last one listed) for that firewall opening if you are interested. :devious:

Mine had an aftermarket A/C unit in it that I quickly removed. Upon dissassembly, I found out why the heat worked no more... one of the cable connections on the control unit had broken, requiring replacement, which I added a factory A/C in from my donor car.

Be sure and grab the whole heater unit complete as the vacuum controls you are getting rid of will have the cable controlled items in place of them. While you are in there, go ahead and put new weatherstripping on the mode door for a good seal.

Wayne

[TomoHawk]

Darn, I think mine is either tarred into place or hardened from age. Either way, I think mine isn't any good. :disappoin

[wal280z]

already removed all the a/c components? you can still use all the a/c controls with the evaporator missing, just make sure the blue wire that goes to the a/c compressor is insulated. other than that, remove the evap. from the control unit, keep your vac. solenoids and vac. bottle in place, check all your vac. lines for being cracked or brittle. You'll need the air 'horn' that will take the place of the evaporator (fits between the heater housing and the 'manifold' for the duct work).

If I had a camera handy (it's at work), I'd take a picture of my old control arse'y (non A/C), you'd see that it has 'notches' rather than springs that you are referring to in your other post..

I'll take a picture of it on Monday for you to show you the differences in the A/C and non-A/C models...

Also... if you do have a donor '76 that you are grabbing the parts off of, the blower motor is different also... 4 wire connection rather than 6 wires..

Hope this helps...

Wayne

[TomoHawk]

When I removed my a/c components, I just left the wiring intact, althought I did remove the a/c snap-switch and cut the wire on that ( I think it was blue). No difference in the way it works, but I seem to get more air flow from the center vents when in a/c mode.

Oh- I blocked off the side outlets from the center splitter, and removed the hoses. I think I will try to plumb the side vents to the footwell air underneath. I'm only interested in fresh air flow from the side vents.

I am still ilnterested in why the vacuum "solenoid" are there and how they work. It would be nice to remove those and even the bottle, if possible.

[wal280z]

the vacuum bottle is there to 'store' the vacuum under low vacuum conditions i.e, you just pressed your brakes and the master vac. booster just used all the vacuum you had out, but you could still switch modes on the heater panel....

If you blocked off the side vents from the center splitter, then of course you will have increased air volume coming through the center vents... no where else for the air to go...

So the question remains... did you remove the evaporator on top of the control unit, or did you leave it in place? If you have removed the compressor, and subsequently purged the lines (*legally, of course) of freon, then you really have no need for the ten or so extra pounds the evaporator adds on....

I just checked MSA's catalog, the control unit for the non-a/c cars is checked with an 'A' (or as I like to say, don't hold your breath), to remove the solenoids and vacuum bottle, you really need to go with a non A/C control unit. Time to take off that dash... and don't forget to change the instrument lights while you have it torn apart...

Wayne